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Old 11-28-2007, 06:18 PM   #21
MattMarks
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Leo - I assume if you're swapping out a Zetec and into a Duratec - you would need to swap out the harness and the central electric box?
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:21 PM   #22
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Matt - you have a PM
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:08 AM   #23
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I would go with the 2.0L duratec but don't use the cossie intake mani because that will hurt your torque and that will not allow you to be as fast as you can be. I am removing my 2.3L duratec and installing a 2.0L duratec with our on F2 head. We will have figures and cost after Dec 18. I expect great numbers and awesome performance numbers.....

And ofcourse the 2.0L and 2.3L duratec engines are interchangeable
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:17 AM   #24
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it hurts power? im curious at something, i would probably have the car tuned with every part i put on it to optimize the power and torque curves, would the cossie manifold make more power if it was tuned to work with the cams, valve springs, intake, F2 stepped exhaust, and FRP head?

another question, does the spec focus develop enough g's to warrant the use of an accusump set up? how does my build list look?

2005 Ford Focus ZX3 $6,500

Engine 2.0 Duratec
F2 Stepped Exhaust header $325
F2/Custom Cold Air intake $150
Cosworth Intake manifold $650
Custom 2.5in Exhaust $210
Accusump 3 quart $310
Ford Racing CNC Head $950
Crane Cams/valve spings and retainers $725
SCT Xcalibrator 3 Tuner $400
CFM 67mm Throttle Body $250
Prothane Poly Engine Bushing Kit $19

Suspension
Eibach Pro-System Plus $720
Prothane Poly Bushing Kit $195
Ford Racing Rear Subframe $195

Brakes
SVT Brake Kit $850
Hawk HPS Race PadsFront and Rear $185
3.5in Neoprene Aeroduct Hose $65
Stainless Steel Brake Lines $115

Wheels and Tires
SVT Euro 17x7 Wheels $400
Toyo RA1 205/40-17 (shaved) $770

Drivetrain
Torsen T2 Differential $510
4.06 Final Drive Kit $120

Safety
2.40L Alloy Hand Held Extinguisher $120
G-Force Cam-lock Harness $135
Corbeau FX1 Seat $300
Corbeau Seat mount $100
F2 Racing Roll Cage $1,750

Interior
G2X Racepac Data Aqusition $950
OMP WRC Steering Wheel $190
Summit Premium Battery Relocation Kit $110
OMP Steering Wheel Mount $72

Fluids
Royal Purple Manual Transmission fluid $45
Royal Purple Purple Ice $13
Royal Purple XRP 5W30 Synthetic Motor Oil $65

* - indicates something not needed but would be nice to have $2,281

Total $18,464
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:13 AM   #25
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Some thoughts in no particular order

Overall cost - your build sheet is showing almost $2500 for the intake, head, and cams, and doesn't include the various gaskets, fasteners and the like. It seems to me that selling the 2.0 and dropping in a 2.3 would have a total cost of less than half of that - plus it's a lot less work.

If you go with the 2.0 - please take note of the following:

1) The only legal 2.0 head/intake are the FRRP head and Cosworth intake. We expect F2 to be submitting information to homologate the head and perhaps the intake, but haven't seen anything from them yet. Don't have enough knowledge regarding relative performance advantage/dis-advantage of the cosworth manifold. However, I would either build the rest of the car out and wait for the F2 head homologation, or else go with the FRRP or swap the 2.3

2) Accusump not needed - though for piece of mind go for it if you want. I would think that an oil cooler (Focussport has one for $150 or so) would be a better first investment. However, you will need to upgrade their oil lines from hose clamp ends to a crimped connection.

3) Xcal's can be had cheaper than $400 - try Central Florida Motorsports or Focussport or others

4) Used 67mm TB's can be had for around $175 - see classifieds

5) There are better (though perhaps not cheaper) suspensions than the eibach. The multimatic kit is stiffer and not a whole lot more money

6) Get the Toyo R888 215/45/17 tires. The RA1 tires aren't legal after July 1. If you have them shaved, you may want to think about a second set of wheels with full tread R888's for use in the rain.

7) Make sure you factor in welding costs for the cage. Not sure if it's a bolt in, but you should still weld the feet to the frame of the car.

8) Budget $1k for a HANS or similar. NASA and or SCCA may require it for 2008, but it could save your life.

9) Personally, I think the Hawk HT10's are a better pad than the HPS. The HPS are really a glorified street pad. HT10's work much better when hot - more bite, less fade

10) Love my G2X - but it's a nice to have for your first year. Save the cash and put it into seat time.

11) Good to see if that you have the SS brake lines - they are a must.


Otherwise - list looks very complete - you've done your homework.
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Old 11-29-2007, 10:48 AM   #26
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yeah i learned a lot from my first track car build, a 93 MR2 turbo, now i want to get into W2W racing. but i was thinking i could cut about 2200 bucks out of that list of stuff that id like to have but dont nessisarlly need, i could put that elseware for the moment and maybe put it into seat time. another thing would be that the car will me basically my indestructable HPDE car. i cringe when i put the MR2 off, but i cant say that i would do the same if i put the focus off the road.



quick pic of the old car.... it was pretty heavilly modded... i estimated on the cage, but that price 1750 is the price on F2's site for a MIG welded cage, but i wish that i could find someone who makes a weld-it-yourself cage for the focus, because i can weld tig or mig. i know the poly motor mounts would be a must, i broke one when i had my 2005, but would the poly suspension bushings be absolutly neessiary? also have you ran into any issues about the brakes fading to the point where youd like to have brake ducts? i have them listed and i know how id build them, just wondering if you use them or would want to use them? yeah i figured that there was a better suspension, but i like that fact that it comes with everything needed, shocks springs, and antiroll bars, not to mention i have good expiernce with the kit, i put it on a freind of mines focus and i loved the way it rode and drove. granted i never drove it on a track, but i know how easy the whole thing is to install. i found an xcal 3 for 400 at steeda, and i was reading over the features and it seems like the xcal 3 is the only one that allows for custom tuning by a tuner, most likely my engine tuner for the MR2 would become my tuner for my spec foucs. if there is any other way of doing custom tuning please let me know, i never got into engine tuning on my focus. i agree on the SS lines, made a HUGE diff on the MR2, by the way does EBC make red or yellow brake pads for the focus? thanks for answers!

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Old 11-29-2007, 11:08 AM   #27
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- Livermore performance has (I think) the weld it yourself cage for about $900 IIRC.

- Polyurethane suspension bushings not needed IMO. If you have everything apart, go ahead and do them - but the cars are relatively soft and the bushings aren't that much firmer than stock.

- My rear mount is gone too...Poly is a must there. Know who sells them?

- You're right on the xcal

- I'm going to run brake ducts for 2008. I had some fade on hot days, but I'm not sure if it was really fade or else pad knockback from the caliper flexing. I'm making my own using the fog light holes and PVC pipe. These cars brake really well. Re-reading your post, the 2005 cars have the same calipers (I believe) as the SVT rally kit - the only difference is that the kit's brakes are 335 mm disks vs. 320 or so for the 2005 OEM disks. Save the $800 on that - I had no issues sticking with, or sometimes outbraking the cars with the kit even on the long straights at Mid-Ohio (120 mph -->> 40mph)

- No idea on EBC's as I haven't used them. I'd personally be running Performance Friction 97's as they are my favorites from my Porsche days, but they don't make them for this application. Note - to get my HT10's to fit the front calipers, I had to grind the backing plates a touch to get them to fit in the guide channels. Unfortunatly, there are not a whole lot of people making brakes for the 05-07 cars.

On the other hand -Hawk gives good contingency money. Winner at the nationals got $500 and they paid me $150 for 4th
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Old 11-29-2007, 11:29 AM   #28
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http://focus.c-f-m.com/index.asp?Pag...PROD&ProdID=53

/\ i think thats the correct bushing but cfm has a bunch more

so on the brakes, i will probably start with a base model 2005 zx3, which means 320 rotors upfront and rear drums, i can either swap in an SVT front and rear kit, or just do an SVT rear kit? i was going to do the SVT whole kit just so that it would be easy to find brake pads in more performace oriented compounds, or is this a wrong assumption? i would think that the 335mm disks would probably help with fade as well, considering that there is a larger area exposed to air, as well, the brakes would probably be a little more catchy,being that the rotors are larger, and ultimatly can create more braking torque, however, are the calipers identical for the rally kit and SVT kit? also is the brake balance pretty good in the car or would tuning the balance with brake pads perhaps help as brake balance adjusters are illegal? any other thoughts on the braking? any other thoughts on the braking?

hmmm...oh yeah can you relocate the battery? like to the spare wheel well with the use of a sealed battery box? out of curiousty i mention the tuner, because of above posts and such im pretty convinced 2.3 is the way to go, so with a header, cold air intake, and exhaust would i really need a custom tune to make the 160-165whp rule? thanks

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Old 11-29-2007, 12:12 PM   #29
MattMarks
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You may want to look into getting the rear brakes/disks/calipers from the junkyard. '05 fronts were running about $30 in my area, so you could probably pick up everything you need for maybe $200? As to other information on what the SVT brake kits come with, check with Leo Capaldi ("LCR"on this board) as he's a site sponsor and the series director.

Brake balance is pretty good, but go with the most agressive rear pads you can find. Every little bit helps for turn-in. You'll still have to trail brake the crap out of the car to make it turn, though. It almost has to be pitched into the corner rally style.

Most of the cars have the battery relocated to the tire well. However, you may want to look into one of the lighter weight batteries such as the oddyssey brand, as getting the car down to weight is going to be a challenge. If you want to be at the minimum (2650 with the 2.3), you'll need to pull the windows and window lifts off the car as well as anything else you can find. AC, and maybe even the HVAC system. The oddysey that I have (sorry - forget the model - 680 maybe?) weighs about 12 pounds vs. the 30+ for stock. Plus it's a gel model so you can mount it in any orientation.

If you can get 160-165 on a dynojet -you're going to spend a lot of time on the dyno and swapping in exhausts and the like. Strong cars will be mid 150's with just bolt ons. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:18 PM   #30
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this seems like it would be a very expensive option but what would you think about for a eibach dampers and springs in the front, and a multimatic dampers and springs in the rear to help with rotation? just babling really...

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