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Old 08-17-2009, 10:31 PM   #21
SKPISTE
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IACV fixed mine. Check your speed sensor as well.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:37 PM   #22
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i had to have a new one put on when i got a new motor...my car was throwing IAC codes and it still has a funny idle. it idles too high (around 2000 and stays there)when i have the a/c off and have the clutch pressed in to change gears (as long as i have the clutch pushed in, it will not idle down...). it doesn't do it when the a/c is on which i think is strange...
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeangreyfan View Post
i had to have a new one put on when i got a new motor...my car was throwing IAC codes and it still has a funny idle. it idles too high (around 2000 and stays there)when i have the a/c off and have the clutch pressed in to change gears (as long as i have the clutch pushed in, it will not idle down...). it doesn't do it when the a/c is on which i think is strange...
Mine does that! Sorry I'm rehasing an old thread, but this has been helpful! I just inherited my focus and experience this. The battery light comes on randomly, and when I came to stop it stalled and died. I've read IAC vavle might be the issue so I'm check it first, esp after this thread!
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoSkater View Post
Hm thats weird, my check engine light isn't on, but the battery one is. To keep it from stalling at stoplights and stuff I have to put it in neutral, put on the e-brake and keep my foot on the gas. I must be gettting like 16mpg now
If I can't find the IAC valve by friday its going to the dealership.


It's not your IAC, its your alternator/dead battery. Check the battery voltage, and if its good check your alternator. The connector on the alternator might be damaged, or it could just be dying. If you replace it, check the grounding wire from the battery for corrosion, had the same problem with mine, the entire wire was corroded through inside the ring terminal.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:54 PM   #25
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Did it work

My 02 Zts focus is doing the same thing.... when I come to a stop it shuts down if I do not keep my foot on the brake, I changed the EGR valve (I think thats what it is called) and it worked for a little but it still is shutting down and doesn't idle without having my foot on the gas.... did cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve make your car idle normal?
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:40 PM   #26
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ok i have a 2001 ford focus zx3 dohc. my car is throwing 3 codes at me. 1. mass air flow sensor 2. o2 sensor and 3. iac

i changed out the mass air flow sensor and the o2 sensor so i just need the iac but i cant seem to find it, anyone help me on where this thing is? i dont know anything about cars so please be patient with me if i seem to not know what your talking about but you help would be greatly appreciated!

also after i change this iac, my check engine light should go off as long as its not throwing any more codes correct?

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Old 09-12-2012, 11:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpottle8 View Post
did cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve make your car idle normal?
yes, cleaning or replacing the IAC fixed the warm-stall problem that many of us encountered.


Quote:
Originally Posted by micsachek View Post
i just need the iac but i cant seem to find it, anyone help me on where this thing is? i dont know anything about cars so please be patient with me if i seem to not know what your talking about but you help would be greatly appreciated!

also after i change this iac, my check engine light should go off as long as its not throwing any more codes correct?
Your IAC is most easily accessed from underneath the car, as if you are replacing the oil filter. See this post for photos:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=262990&page=2

Many of us who have had dirty/faulty IAC's did not throw a code, so I can't comment on whether a new one will clear your code, but it seems reasonable that it will.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:52 AM   #28
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Thumbs up

I just replaced the IAC on my 2001 Focus lx with the SOHC (Single overhead valve) engine. It was a piece of cake! The car was experiencing sporatic stall problems after warm-up. I had no check engine light or 'pending' codes. Previously, I also replaced the MAF sensor.
The IAC is located at the rear center of the engine, just under the TPC (Throttle Position Control sensor), which is at the end of the large black hose/ tube that comes from the air cleaner. NOTHING needs to be removed to access the IAC. It MAY be helpful to remove the TPC sensor (attached by 2 philips head screws). It may also be helpful to "un-snap" a fuel line from a plastic holding clamp on the rear firewall, so you can manuver your tools around. It is suggested that the negative battery cable be removed to 'reset' any computer faults, as you replace this part/ parts. I disagree that this will reset the computer faults/ codes... on this year car, that needs to be done with a code reader. But it is safer to disconnect the battery cable, just clean it and the post before re-installing it.
The IAC is removed by using a 1/4" drive ratchet, a short extension, and a 8mm socket. After it's removed from the throttle body/ block, the electrical connector can be removed. The night before, I used RTV silicone to apply the gasket to the new IAC. That way I would not have to fight the gasket as I was installing the IAC on the engine. I didn't bother to silicone the gasket to the engine.
I decided to replace the TPC sensor at the same time. This sensor has a round 'boss' that fits into the throttle body. To install this sensor, you need to open the throttle with your right hand, as you fit the TPC in place. Open the throttle by using the 'wheel' that is at the end of the throttle/ gas pedal cable. Don't stick anything down the throttle body air inlet to hold it open, and don't force the 'tang' that the TPS mates with (inside the throttle body). While holding the throttle open, loosely install 1 (philips head) screw. It may be necessary to keep the throttle open to install the 2nd screw. Now tighten both screws. This particular sensor, unlike previuos years, is not adjustable... it simply get bolted in place.
The whole job of replacing both parts took less than 40 mins., and the car is running fine... after test driving it all week-end long.
Another helpful piece of advice: A lot of parts stores have websites that you can go on. You will need to punch-in your vehicle information, then do a search for the part you are looking for. Most of the time, the website will have an actual photo of the part. I find this very helpful when I'm 'scoping-out' the job to see what's involved ahead of time. It gives you a great reference point as to what you are looking for when you're crawling around the engine compartment looking for a particular part!

Last edited by bobby2113; 02-25-2013 at 09:02 AM. Reason: additional information
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:33 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_beautious_ZX3 View Post
yes, cleaning or replacing the IAC fixed the warm-stall problem that many of us encountered.



Your IAC is most easily accessed from underneath the car, as if you are replacing the oil filter. See this post for photos:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=262990&page=2

Many of us who have had dirty/faulty IAC's did not throw a code, so I can't comment on whether a new one will clear your code, but it seems reasonable that it will.
Yes. That is a great thread. The last post (by me!) also has a video of it:
- http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...2&postcount=40

I briefly explain how to remove it, where the screws are (I touch them), and how to reinstall it.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:13 AM   #30
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I found the vacuum hose right next to the IAC was collapsed on my 2000 SE, I cut it and put it back together with a piece of plastic tube and now it runs fine, but battery light is still on/off so I will check the negative cable . thanks for the help!
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