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Old 02-17-2008, 08:40 PM   #81
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My stock tune sucks. The more I modify the car, the more out of whack it seems to get. For instance, on cold days it is barely driveable. I have a high flow cat, 67mm TB and manifold port matched so there is no restrictive bottleneck. I also have an SRI, 3" exhaust from the cat back (flex pipe included) and MSD coil w/8.5mm wires, new plugs.

My engine bucks so bad that I have to push the clutch in to get it to stop. It also surges noticeably. There is also a slight bog on initial throttle tip in, especially in first gear at a stop sign or traffic light. And at least once a week it dies completely if I push the clutch in cruising at 70 mph in 6th. If I downshift and coast, it hasn't died, or if I let it coast down to like 2K rpm and then push in the clutch it won't die.

I changed the fuel filter 2 weeks ago. It still dies. I also checked for vacuum leaks. Non exist. The stock tune (at least on my car) is rediculously retarded.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) ?
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:33 PM   #82
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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) ?
I haven't checked that, but most of the symptoms dissappear once the car is warm, except the occassional stall. That only happens every 7-10 days or so.

I would think a faulty TPS sensor would throw a CEL. Technically the TPS sensor *is* part of the emissions control (along with the MAF, IAT, PCV, O2 sensors etc).

I do get a check engine light but it is P0420 (cat efficiency). I have a CFM cat.
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:46 PM   #83
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I just remembered.

With the High flow CAT, you mentioned in another thread about defeating the O2 sensor.

I am pretty sure that's related to the running problems that you are experiencing.

The bucking/stalling is probably due to the ECU leaning out the car based on the O2 sensor readings and starving the fuel.
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:52 PM   #84
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The CAT code supercedes the O2 sensor...
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:30 PM   #85
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The thing about this is that it's completely random. At least for me it is. I could drive around town all day it not happen at all. The next day, it might happen once. Mine seems to do it the most when slowing down for red lights. It hasn't happened to me in a while, but every now and then when I'm sitting at a red light the RPMs will bog a little and fluctuate between 900 and 700. These cars are supposed to idle at 900 right? You would think that the easy fix would be to set the idle up to a even 1k, and maybe adjust the PCM to not drop RPMs so fast. I usually don't to a lot of engine braking on daily drives, but I'll experiment with it and see if it makes a difference for me since some previous posters said that it doesn't happen if they engage the clutch from a lower RPM to stop.

I think my bigger worry should be the clutch master cylinder leaking fluid directly under my clutch pedal.
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:52 PM   #86
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Quote:
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The thing about this is that it's completely random. At least for me it is. I could drive around town all day it not happen at all. The next day, it might happen once. Mine seems to do it the most when slowing down for red lights. It hasn't happened to me in a while, but every now and then when I'm sitting at a red light the RPMs will bog a little and fluctuate between 900 and 700. These cars are supposed to idle at 900 right? You would think that the easy fix would be to set the idle up to a even 1k, and maybe adjust the PCM to not drop RPMs so fast. I usually don't to a lot of engine braking on daily drives, but I'll experiment with it and see if it makes a difference for me since some previous posters said that it doesn't happen if they engage the clutch from a lower RPM to stop.

I think my bigger worry should be the clutch master cylinder leaking fluid directly under my clutch pedal.
Upping the idle and telling the PCM to slow the RPM drop-off are just band-aids, and two things I wouldn't want to do to the car anyway.

Aside from that, your description is the same as mine... very random, and seems to happen mostly when decelerating to a stop in neutral.
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:36 PM   #87
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I do believe the stalling issue is a result of to ECU not telling the IACV to open fast enough when the RPM's drop. Start your car and unplug the IACV, the car will stall. This is because the throttle blade is closed and the only way your engine can get air is through the IACV. When you are coasting to a stop and you close the throttle blade (foot off throttle), IF your revs drop fast enough, the IACV will never open and you stall out.

It is what it is. The rpm decay can be slowed to help prevent the issue. OR, the throttle blade can be set slightly open with the set-screw to allow for some airflow even with the throttle closed, with the IACV can be unplugged to avoid the issue all together.
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:39 PM   #88
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Also the abrupt bucking, starving for fuel issue (at idle) is the IACV. The damn thing has a mind of its own.
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:43 PM   #89
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I do believe the stalling issue is a result of to ECU not telling the IACV to open fast enough when the RPM's drop. Start your car and unplug the IACV, the car will stall. This is because the throttle blade is closed and the only way your engine can get air is through the IACV. When you are coasting to a stop and you close the throttle blade (foot off throttle), IF your revs drop fast enough, the IACV will never open and you stall out.

It is what it is. The rpm decay can be slowed to help prevent the issue. OR, the throttle blade can be set slightly open with the set-screw to allow for some airflow even with the throttle closed, with the IACV can be unplugged to avoid the issue all together.
There is always an open pathway through the throttlebody. Sounds to me like the IACV needs to be tuned, not the TB.
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:36 PM   #90
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I agree, but the open pathway through the TB is NOT sufficient for the car to idle without the IACV being active.
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