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SVT Performance (2002-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L SVT DOHC Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 09-28-2007, 01:01 AM   #21
FastFocus86
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hmm... fuel filter eh? could this be whats causing me to "run rich" according to code 172
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:46 PM   #22
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Tom, this problem isn't an issue with your tune, because it's not consistent. The problem happens to people with stock tunes, your tunes, stock engine bay, or modified. And it doesn't happen all the time. The car could be fine for a week and then one day it'll die every time you come to a traffic light.

I've found that if I keep the car in gear as I coast to a stop, and put it in neutral at 1k rpm, the car NEVER dies. I've also found that if you run a fuel injector cleaner through your gas tank and change your fuel filter, the problem goes away for about 2 months, then starts coming back.

This has been an ongoing issue for years now, and nobody has had a concrete answer. I thought for a short while that it was a fuel delivery problem (which it still may be) because it was fixed with a fuel additive and a filter change... but why would it come back a mere 2 months (3,000 miles) later? Unless our gas tanks are made out of rust, I just can't see it happening.

I have yet to get my injectors cleaned and/or replaced, so I haven't ruled out fuel delivery entirely. But it does seem like the most obvious answer at this point.
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:58 PM   #23
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my hasnt yet just the battery light comes for a sec then goes off....this is also right after i start the car and drive
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Old 09-29-2007, 04:04 PM   #24
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I have a 2004 motor, purchased new by Caterham Cars USA from Ford Motorsport through one of the Denver, CO Ford dealerships. The cams have been upgraded to a set of bespoke Kent high duration units, and I have a lightweight (< 10 lbs) flywheel. I got the car with 125 miles on it, and from day one, the car has died if I put the clutch in above 3500 rpm. If I let it engine brake down below 2000 rpm, then engage the clutch, the car settles nicely to a 900 rpm idle. If I pop the clutch while the car is coasting, the engine fires up again. The ECU is throwing an output shaft sensor code. At about 600 miles, the car's behavior changed. When new, it started right up, and settled into a 1500 rpm cold idle, then gradually dropped to 900-1000. Now, the car is hard to start; when it does, it revs to 2500 rpm for 2-3 seconds, then settles to 1500, as before. On the road, when putting the clutch in at any rpm, the revs drop to 500 or so, then rebound to 900. From higher rpms (where it would die before), it tries to stay alive, and will sometimes. I assumed the fault was due to incompatibility between the ECU and the new camshafts, in spite of assurances from all my suppliers that ECU reprogramming was unneccessary with these cams. It sounds, though, from the posts here, that the problem is not simply due to modifications that change the stock engine parameters. The car will get a new fuel filter next week, as well as a check of the DSI mechanism. CaysE mentioned a fuel injector cleaner; any particular one? I am very cautious about putting additives in my cars. Do any of the other symptoms above suggest other causes? Other than this problem, the motor is terrific. Great top end from 5-7000 rpm, tractable and driveable from 2500-5000. I'm new to this forum, but I've always gotten great advice from similar forums for my last car (Beck 550 Spyder), and there's a lot more knowledge about these motors here than at the local Ford dealer's service department. Oh, one more item: the car has a slight surging tendency when cold, that goes away as it warms up. I figured it was the lumpy cam, but now, who knows? Any thoughts?
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Old 09-29-2007, 04:26 PM   #25
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well is it an actual SVT motor or a regular zetec that's been beefed up?!? Either way a tune from Tom (1turbofocus on here I THINK, you can search for turbo tom and find his part of the forum) should help out most of the problems.
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Old 09-29-2007, 04:34 PM   #26
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athens7, it would be hard to try to parallel your issues with this one that's seen on nearly all stock SVT Focuses. I'm sure you have a different fuel tank, fuel pump, lines, and filter locations. As for the additive, Sea Foam works pretty well in the gas tank when you have about 1/4 tank of fuel left.

josejsanchez, do a search about the alternator wiring harness and ignition coil wiring harness. The battery light problem is usually associated with them.
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Old 09-29-2007, 05:02 PM   #27
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Mine has NEVER done this... I've seen these threads pop up now and again since about 2003; am I driving different than the rest of you or just got lucky with my car or what? Oddly enough, since the car went out of warranty it has been remarkably reliable. Now of course I just jinxed myself by saying that.
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Old 09-29-2007, 05:23 PM   #28
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Avengerc4, it's an SVT motor, not a tuned Zetec. CaysE, I know there are many differences between my setup and the Focus', but the problem is SO similar, and my car uses a stock wiring harness, intake, and stock ECU, I figured it couldn't hurt to try some of the things listed here. A fuel filter is cheaper than reprogramming an ECU and I believe in trying the simple things first. I'm only about 3 hours from Tom @ Focus Power, and I'll reach out to him to schedule some time on the dyno down the road. It would be nice to just enjoy my new, not inexpensive, toy for a little while before I start pouring $$$ into re-engineering it; oh well. If this problem is endemic to SVT Focuses, it may be unavoidable for my car too,and I may just have to learn to adapt my driving to the car's behavior.
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:26 PM   #29
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I have my stock SVT for a year now with only three occasions of my rpms dropping out on me. All three were either where I didn't find the next gear in time during harder acceleration or when I got on the brakes with the clutch in from high rpm. Its seems to happen radomly since I have made no changes to the car, use the same octane gas and do regular oil changes. Only once have I seen my battery light come on for 2 seconds after start but I associated that to having my radio on for an hour prior.
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:28 PM   #30
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i replaced my upstream O2 sensor, with no change in the stalling. my next guess is IACV
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