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Old 08-02-2013, 01:36 PM   #1
shananigans89
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how to adjust 67mm CFM throttle body idle adjustment screw

plain and simple, is there a procedure or technique to properly adjust the idle screw on a new CFM 67mm throttle body?


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Old 08-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
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Start car
unhook the IACV
car should die restart
set idle to 750
reconnect the IACV

Your set

IACV= Idle Air Control Valve

Tom
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #3
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ok thanks! however, when you say "set idle to 750" i'm guessing you mean with the idle screw? and i believe in the last tune i did with you, we set the idle to 1000 because i was having problems.

BTW, thanks tom! and also, i need to get with you this week about getting a new tune with my laptop connected to the car.

thanks,
colin
socrgy9@gmail.com
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1turbofocus View Post
Start car
unhook the IACV
car should die restart
set idle to 750
reconnect the IACV

Your set

IACV= Idle Air Control Valve

Tom
sorry, also, i'm assuming i should have the A/C off when doing those adjustments, correct? and can i, or should i, remove the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU.
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:32 PM   #5
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i really need an answer! i'm trying what you have suggested and it seems to make the problem worse. the car is fine when the A/C is off, however, when i went to drive down the street with the A/C on, i clutched in, and the rpms dropped so much the car died.

also, i think i really need a new tune for putting on this 67mm throttle body. i know i contacted you, tom, about it a few months ago when i got it put on, but i never heard back from you. please help! i have to drive 250miles home in 2 days and i need my car to work.

thanks
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:10 PM   #6
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Turn off everything. A/C, lights & radio.

• Start car and warm it up to operating temperature (fans come on)
• Then unplug the IAC, engine doesn't always stall out, depends on your mods and whether or not you may have your idle set too high already.
• Adjust idle screw so engine idles @ 750-1000 (+/- 50rpm) I have mine set between 900-1000 due to lopey cams.
• Shut off the car and unplug backup fuse/disconnect battery (-) terminal for 30-60 seconds. While it is disconnected press on the brake peddle or horn to ensure that all energy is drained from the system.
• Install fuse/connect (-) bat. terminal
• Start car and let idle with no load (no radio, A/C etc etc) until engine is at operating temps.
• Once engine is back up to operating temperature turn on the A/C, lights and radio, Do not touch the gas. Let it idle for a few minutes like this then take it for a spirited drive and a short cruise on the highway. This will help the ECU learn the ST & LT fuel trims.


Just did this yesterday for the addition of a 65mm BBK throttle body on the stock ECU. No issues after IAC set and ECU reset. Throttle response is great! Not sure if a previously tuned ECU will act differently or not????
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #7
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I dont agree
• Then unplug the IAC, engine doesn't always stall out, depends on your mods and whether or not you may have your idle set too high already.
* Your engine should ALWAYS shut off when you unplug the IACV or you have other issues

• Adjust idle screw so engine idles @ 750-1000 (+/- 50rpm) I have mine set between 900-1000 due to lopey cams.
* If you dont have a tune your engine TB screw can be set to 1000rpm but will still idle at 850 because thats whats set in the ECU stock tune and will still idle at 850

There is no need to pull fuses or take Batt loose for this or not hit the throttle etc etc

A/C does need to be off

Tom
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:05 PM   #8
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I don't have any issues with my engine, it runs great!

When my IAC valve was unplugged the idle dropped to about 500-600rpm and continued to run. Now my engine does not idle at 800rpm on stock ecu ether. That's why I mentioned may or may not stall, depending on any previous throttle stop adjustments. if your throttle stop has already been adjusted your engine may not stall.

Any time I make changes to air intake and/or exhaust velocity or volume. I prefer to reset the ECU. It's a habit that I have and it never hurts. Unless you have to go to a smog test the next day!

Not meaning to ruffle any feathers here. Just saying that there is always more than one way to skin a cat!
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:59 PM   #9
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You have something wrong if you dont have a tune , you cannot adjust the idle above the factory idle and it stay by adjusting the idle screw

By unhooking the IACV your engine should die ALWAYS

Your not ruffling any feathers here , there is more then one way to skin a cat but what happens when its skinned is always the same

Tom
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:07 PM   #10
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thanks! sorry, i was a bit frantic earlier because my bolt holding the negative battery cable to the battery broke, so i had to go get a new terminal clamp.

anyways, i turned the car on, let it warm up, and then unplugged the IACV. the car didnt die because i had already been doing a bit of trial and error yesterday with the idle screw. i set the screw to where the rpms were stable at what i'd guess is 950 ish (because my last tune from tom should have been setting the idle to 1k rpm).

then i turned off the car and re-plugged the IACV. i removed the battery negative terminal and waited 1min. while waiting i pushed the horn and brake a few times. then i reconnected everything and turned the car on. i let it idle for about 5 mins and then turned on the lights, radio, A/C, and plugged in the radar detector. i waited another 5 mins and then went on a drive on the roads and highway.

the rpms hang at 2k when i push in the clutch now. then when i stop, they drop to 1200-1300 rpms and hang for another while, as long as i'm still stopped. after another short while (that still feels like forever), the rpms slowly drop to 950ish where i set the idle screw. the car works now, by that i mean it doesnt try to die when i push in the clutch. however, i definitely need to have it re-tuned.

thanks for the help!
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