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Old 08-03-2007, 10:59 PM   #1
R3d_RovrZX3
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HOW-TO: build your own O2 cheater

Here are the instructions for making your own O2 sensor from $2 worth of parts from radioshack instead of buying a 35 dollar one from CFM or a 9 dollar one from ebay...



Needed:

**NOTE: if the O2 sensor is really rusted on, I recommend PB blaster for helping get it out**
1. O2 sensor removal tool ($13 from local hardware store...maybe not needed but made things easier)
2. Open-ended wrench the size of the removal tool (mine said 7/8" but was actually 1")
3. Ratchet for the removal tool if needed
**NOTE: the transmission will get in the way if u us the ratchet to loosen the O2 sensor too far so use open-ended for as much as possible**

4. Soldering pencil
5. Solder
6. Wire cutters
7. Wire strippers
8. exacto knife

9. A 1 microfarad capacitor ($1 from radio shack)
10. 5 pack of 1 megaohm, 1/2 or 1/4 watt resistors ($1 from radio shack)
11. electrical tape
12. some sort of protective covering for the finished product...be creative, finished product will be somewhat close to the transmission


Process:

**IN ORDER TO REACH THE SENSOR LOCATION ON MY HEADER, I HAD TO ADD A COUPLE INCHES TO ALL FOUR WIRES**
...this is not included in the how-to but you may be required to also do so if the sensor needs to be back near the flex pipe like mine did

1. Unplug the blue O2 sensor connector


2. Use the O2 sensor removal tool and an open ended wrench to remove the O2 sensor...a ratchet might be helpful to get it started but will get stuck between the sensor and the transmission if you take it out too far...
**NOTE: i found it to be easiest to remove the sensor right after parking the car, while it is still quite warm...careful not to burn yourself but i think its easier to get it started


3. Use the exacto knife and wire cutters to CAREFULLY cut the rubber sleeve without cutting the wires about 2 inches from the connector end...this will keep the cheater away from all the exhaust heat


4. Pull the longer end of the sleeve down so that it squishes down on the sensor and use some electrical tape or something to hold it down as far as possible while you work.


5. Between the two parts of the sleeve, separate the two white wires from the gray and black ones...the white wires will not be touched.


6. Cut the black wire in the middle of the area available (one cut) and cut a small section (half-inch) out of the gray wire (two cuts). **I actually did this 2 cut step later but recommend it here instead**

7. Strip each of the available wires about 1/4 inch or so down...just enough to solder. Then twist the strands to keep them together.


8. Take the capacitor and wrap the black wire (connector side) around one of the wires coming out of the capacitor, make this connection fairly close to the capacitor.

9. Fold back the other wire coming out of the capacitor and twist on the gray wire (connector side)


10. Wrap the remaining black wire (sensor side) around the black wire from the connector side and its capacitor wire.


11. Solder the black wires and one side of the capacitor together, trim off any extra wire from the capacitor, and wrap in electrical tape.

12. Take one of the resistors and wrap one of its wires around the gray wire (connector side) and second capacitor wire

**NOTE: it has been recommended that you use heatshrink tubing instead of/in addition to the electrical tape...so you may want to put heatshrink over the capacitor and wires here**



13. Wrap the other end of the resistor around the other gray wire (sensor side)

14. Solder both of these connections and wrap in more electrical tape **AND/OR HEATSHRINK**
.



15. Remove the electrical tape holding down the sleeve and cut a small slit in the side, allowing the sleeve to partially cover the cheater electronics.


16. Tape the sleeve down over the electronics.

17. Use whatever protective cover you have to cover it all up.


18. More electrical tape to keep out moisture and dirt.


19. Finger tighten O2 sensor back into the car.


20. Use the removal tool and open ended wrench to tighten the O2 sensor. Torque it down a bit but don't crossthread/strip it.


21. Plug blue connector back in and enjoy your lack of engine light.


**I am not responsible for the use of this mod to break the law/pass emissions tests illegally. Any equipment which removes emissions equipment is for off-road use only**


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Last edited by R3d_RovrZX3; 08-15-2007 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:58 AM   #2
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got pics?
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:13 PM   #3
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Cool write up... notice any difference?
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:29 PM   #4
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this wright up should be handy since the government just outlawed all sales of 02 sims. nobody sells them anymore.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:34 PM   #5
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Theres always the good old fashion extensions that move the sensor out of the path of exhaust flow that work also. I just saw those on sale yesterday at the local speed shop.
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nereus78 View Post
got pics?
theres a pic on almost every step exept 10-14 or somethin...i do need to put them on a different server though...my internet connection has been sketchy lately, so i apologize if the pics are temporarily unavailable
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisRobin View Post
Cool write up... notice any difference?
if u mean performanc-wise no, i did not...the purpose of this mod was to get rid of the CEL once i put my new 4-1 header on...i dont have the header on right now...so the mod actually accomplished nothing for me as of yet because im still on the stock header/cat setup...but i know ill be glad its already ready when i do get the header on...and im confident everything worked properly because of the fact that i DIDNT notice a change...thats a good way to tell everything went as planned

Quote:
Originally Posted by heelflip101 View Post
Theres always the good old fashion extensions that move the sensor out of the path of exhaust flow that work also. I just saw those on sale yesterday at the local speed shop.
just be careful of the transmission...the sensor is aimed right for that thing and it was a pain removing it because it was aimed right for the transmission...i dont know how long those extenders are but just a heads up
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Old 08-05-2007, 06:58 AM   #8
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very slick. we need to sticky this...ASAP
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:10 PM   #9
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haha, maybe it will get stickied once i get the rest of the pics in....ive just been really busy and havent had time yet...hopefullyi will today
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Old 08-05-2007, 02:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
just be careful of the transmission...the sensor is aimed right for that thing and it was a pain removing it because it was aimed right for the transmission...i dont know how long those extenders are but just a heads up
It only sticks out about a inch further and it shouldn't be towards your tranny or somethings wrong with you new header.
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