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Old 08-10-2007, 03:40 PM   #71
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any luck?
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Old 08-10-2007, 04:20 PM   #72
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:02 PM   #73
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Ah sorry.
I ordered what I believe is a brand new IHI wastegate actuator..
I emailed every single IHI supplier on their website..
Most suppliers said they cannot get the actuator without the turbo, but a couple said they'd sell me remans.
Two suppliers said they could get them new, and one in particular was extremely friendly and helpful.
She measured the brand new actuator for me and it matches mine, and she looked at the pics I took of mine and said it looks the same.
So sight unseed I took the chance and ordered it.

I was waiting to post progress until I was 100% sure it was the correct part, but since you ask I'll tell!

Also next Tuesday I'll be doing a boost leak test.
My friend who will be helping me (he already has the stuff from his EVO) isn't available until then.
Neither of us believe that I have any serious boost leaks however.
I can clearly hear the wastegate opening too early.
For those of you with straight-through 3" exhausts you know what I'm talking about.
There is a noticable increase in the sound volume of the exhaust when it's not travelling through the turbine.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:08 PM   #74
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Oh I also purchased an Innovate LC-1 Wideband and square, red LCD display from www.dynotunenitrous.com
I caught word that they sell working returns at a discount..
If you've read any of this thread you know I jumped on that. :)

I emailed them and Dan quickly emailed me back saying to give him a call.
The next day I called Dan and he had on hand exactly what I was looking for.
I got it for $199 with free shipping, including the LCD unit.
Best of all he's giving a warranty with it. :)

From my short dealings I'd definitely recommend www.dynotunenitrous.com.
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:31 PM   #75
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Today I received my brand new wastegate actuator from:

Durabilt Div. Dura Products Co.
2 Bradford Place
Bradley, IL 60915-1260
1-815-939-1399

for $75 + $8.36 shipping.

Manual tranny PN: Ford # e7se9g438ab or IHI # 5t561
Auto tranny PN: Ford #e7se9g438bc or IHI # 5t562

The good news is I found a brand new WGA...
The bad news is I don't think I needed it.
The tension on the currently installed rod and the new rod are pretty much identical.
I didn't use any type of measuring device, but they're so close it really wasn't necessary.
Therefore I did not install the new one but reused the older one.
I previously had it shimmed slightly so the rod dropped in perfectly.
This time I removed the shim so I had to pull on the rod about 1/16" for it to set into the wastegate arm.

While looking at my "spare" turbo I had a revelation...

READ ON!!

EDIT: I'll leave this here, but it's all incorrect.
The starburst pattern around the port is actually cracks that form over time.
At a later date I may switch to the other housing I have that has no cracks.

I think I found the primary cause of my "progressive boost", AND one of the major differences between the Auto and Manual Tbirds with the IHI turbo.
1) The Auto has a significantly weaker WGA spring.
2) The actual turbo housing is different..
I can't believe I didn't catch it before I installed the turbo..
Looking at the WG outlet with the flap open, the Manual surface is nice and flat allowing a good seal for the WG arm.
The Auto has small grooves (maybe 8?) extending out in a sun ray-like pattern around the WG port.
I believe this allows boost pressure to leak out around the WG arm flap!

Unfortunately I do not have a photo of the auto WG port.
I'm hoping somebody else on here does and would be willing to share it.

In conclusion, I'm not sure what I'll do at the moment.
I don't think I'll be needing the new WGA.
I guess I'll try to send it back unless somebody on here wants to buy it from me at the same price.
As for accidentally installing an auto IHI turbo on my Focus, I guess I'll stick with it for now.
I just got it together, so I'm not itching to tear it back out and swap housings.
I'm sure I'll eventually swap housings. Most likey this year.

I went for a drive but it's dark out and can't really gauge whether or not the shim removal helped much.

PICS:

Manual WG port:


Quick mock of the Auto WG port:


New WGA:


New WGA stamped part #s:


Manual WGA vs Auto.
No part # anywhere on the Auto, and the vac nipple points a different direction.
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Last edited by sporadic; 09-05-2007 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:37 PM   #76
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you should just ditch the idea of an internal waste gate and put an external on it. lol
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:40 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tls_bmx View Post
you should just ditch the idea of an internal waste gate and put an external on it. lol
I can't. It's the persistent problem-solver in me.
I have to know exactly what causes an issue, how to fix it, and then how to make it better!
In that order. :)
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:51 PM   #78
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Dyno Vids from 8/4/2007

Since vids were requested.
The boost acts completely different now.
You can see in the Dyno_Boost_View vid how I it only hits about 5psi and fluttered around until 6k rpm when it finally decided to creep up to just under 10psi.
Now I'm hitting full boost about 3,100 rpm.





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Old 08-14-2007, 10:10 PM   #79
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Today I performed a boost leak test with the help of evobluebyyou.

We found a boost leak in a place that I would never have dreamed - at the gasket for the throttle body plate rod.
Anytime we pressurized the system the little green gasket would pop out and leak boost.

If you own a turbo Duratec then check this gasket!
If you can see green at all then it has pushed loose of it's seat!

That was the only major boost leak we found, but that one is significant enough I think it is part of my boost issue.
I took some black RTV to basically glue the gasket into place.
The RTV is drying overnight so my car is still in pieces.

While I sealed the throttle body gasket evobluebyyou continued the boost leak test.
He demanded we use a paint can to plug the throttle body end of the piping, even after I said that was a bad idea. :whistle:
It actually worked quite well. :grin:
We quickly learned the gen 1 BOV opens at 6psi when there's no boost pressurizing the other side.

I'll post tomorrow the results of sealing that tb gasket.
I have a slight sputter at idle and I bet that's the problem.

I have just under 1,000 boosted miles. :)
The good news is my spark plugs look like new and have zero sign of issues in my tune!
The bad news is my stock clutch slips between in-boost shifts.
I saw this coming but was hoping to put it off a while.
I doubt I'll get to the clutch replacement until next spring though unless somebody has a urge to sponsor it. :grin:
I'll do a Torsen limited slip at the same time.

PICS

Boost leak tester cap:


TB Gasket:



Spark plug:
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:02 AM   #80
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Bah! Now I have a serious hanging RPM issue!
I pressure tested the lines again and it's far better than before, so it can't be a vacuum leak.

Symptoms:
- When I start the car the RPM hang around 2.5-3k for a few seconds and then finally drop to around 1200 RPM and don't settle lower.
- When I push in the clutch the RPM jump up (with my foot off the gas) or hang where they were when I pushed in the clutch.

Here's everything I did:
- Removed ambient pipe to pressure test the system.
The ambient line includes the BPV oulet.
Used a cap with valve stem on the turbo inlet elbow.
- Pressure tested. Found boost leak at throttle body rod gasket.
- Removed the throttle body and disassembled to seal the faulty gasket.
- Sealed gasket. Waited overnight. Assembled throttle body.
- Mounted throttle body and upper IC coupler to throttle body.
- Pressure tested to check sealed gasket - OK.
- Assembled ambient pipe and BPV return hose. Double checked all clamps.
- Started car and it revved like I had my foot on the gas, but I didn't and the throttle plate was fully closed.
- I adjusted the idle set screw to allow the throttle plate to completely close but that did nothing to help the hanging RPM issue.

Did I manage to mess up my TPS?
I've never touched it, but it almost sounds like my AIS plunger is sticking open?

Help!
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