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Old 03-30-2007, 03:36 AM   #1
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Question Car won't start only making clicking sound

I was driving home with my music on and the HID's were all on and all of a sudden the radio turned off and the lights started to dim and the car loss accelaration.

I parked and the car died, I took the key out but the lights still worked. The dome light and blinkers would still turn on. I put the key back in and the car tried to turn on but all the lights went out and it didn't start. I took the key out again and when I put it back in it just clicked nothing else. Lights still work but the car won't start. I don't know what it could be, the battery is fine cause the windows go down and the lights work. The car has fuel and the dashbaord didn't display any lights, it just died without warning.

Does anyone know what it could be?? I need help.


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Old 03-30-2007, 03:40 AM   #2
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it is you altenator, even with no altenator your battery still work trust me it happen to me too, your car will light up but you wont have power to start your car.
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Old 03-30-2007, 03:41 AM   #3
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Moving to technical discussion.

First check your battery cable connection and make sure its not loose. From the clicking noise, its very likely that your battery is bad. I would start there first before moving to the alternator.
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:02 AM   #4
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yup, check the battery, then the alternator. i had the same thing happen on my mustang. it was just a loose battery terminal that had a bit of corosion. but it is also possible for your battery to have enought power for your lights to come on and windows work but not quite enough to crank your car. with it dying sudenly like that i would bet it's the alternator, but check all your battery possibilities first. check your cable conections. i've had sound systems in my cars loud enough to shake conections loose before. process of elimination my friend. good luck.
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:21 AM   #5
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Since the car won't start, wouldn't that have something to do with the starter?? My battery is an optimal battery which supposedly has the strength of 3 or so batteries. The check battery light never came on but neither did any other, it just turned off. The alternator was already replaced once on june of last year and they gave me a 1 year warranty.
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:52 AM   #6
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When they replaced the alternator, did they replace the 3-prong plug at the top of the alt? Mine went bad(one wire got just a LITTLE bit loose) and fried my alternator. There were literally droplets of plastic on the fins of the alternator housing. I agree w/ the others though, battery connections first. Then charge the battery and see if it will start when fully charged. If so, go to alternator and that crappy plug!
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:57 AM   #7
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It can be a variety of things: starter, battery, altenator, connections, cables. Just because you have power to your windows doesn't mean the battery is good; windows draw very little power compared to a starter.
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Old 03-30-2007, 01:36 PM   #8
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Well, they charged the battery and the car turned on but soon after it died. It was the alternator, I had warranty on it so I was only charged for the labor which was $117. My car is back up and running. I don't want this thing to die out on me again so should I get a capacitor or an extra battery for my sound system?? I have a 2000 watt system.
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Old 03-30-2007, 02:06 PM   #9
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> I have a 2000 watt system

2,000 Watts? I realize that this is only a peak rating, but if it is putting out 2,000 watts, even momentarily, this would be a current flow of more than 150 amps, or the equivalent of switching roughly 35 headlights on and off going from max output to silence.

That cannot be good for the battery/charging system.

I would think an extra battery or capacitor to dampen the current demand and smooth out the fluctuations seen by the battery and alternator would be a prudent move.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:41 PM   #10
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first thing is the stock alternator was never meant for that high of current demands, it will put out about 110 amps, but this is for battery charging and not meant to be continuous.
todays alternators are made to maintain a batteries charge and run low amp stock accesories.
a cap isnt going to do crap, a second battery or an actual alternator built for this purpose is what you need.
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