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Old 02-20-2007, 07:06 PM   #11
Focistang85
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How expensive are they anyways?
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:09 PM   #12
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35 bucks new..
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Old 02-20-2007, 08:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetecrazy View Post
Nah....I had it on for about 4 months and it worked fine....the day the light started coming on throwing the o2 sensor code, my battery terminal came loose and shorted my car...when I reconnected the terminal properly, about 20 miles later the CEL came on....I replaced the sensor...still light keeps on coming on...I'm thinkin maybe there is a resister in the o2 cheater that blew or something.

I figured that my chip would eliminate the light as well, but even with the header tune on my chip, my light is coming on.

But i guess it is possible that when my terminal came loose and shorted out my car, is messed up the cheater.

=/ you think I should get a new cheater and see what happens?
I don't understand why you replaced the sensor when you have it bypassed with the MIL Eliminator
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:30 AM   #14
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Well if you get the new bypass and it wasn't the problem, you only wasted 35 bucks.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:43 AM   #15
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I would talk to whoever you got your chip from...you should definitely be able to turn off the downstream O2 sensor. Just another reason why I'll be buying a flasher...e-mail whoever does your tuning and they can send you an updated tune without having to yank the chip and ship it back to be re-burned.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:03 AM   #16
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I wasnt sure if the cheater bypasses the whole sensor, or just makes up for the difference in the flow pretending the cat is still there. That is why I changed it.
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:06 PM   #17
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It puts a resistor inline with the circuit and tricks the computer into thinking that the cat is still present. If its not sealed correctly the wiring will pull lose or the resistor will fail...you could try getting a voltmeter and check for continuity and then check for resistance.
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