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Old 01-06-2007, 06:50 PM   #1
bluerosesoldier
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windshield wipers not working

Well yesterday they were working fine. Then today I pulled out my tach driver and tach. Now my wipers are not working. I had the tach tied into the same fuse as my front wipers, spot 56 if Im remembering correctly. I pulled the fuse checked the fuse and it seems to be fine but I replaced it anyways and tried it again. Still nothing. I then checked the one for rear wiper...same thing was fine. So Im stumped everything looks to be fine. Any ideas on what I can check? If it makes any difference when I hit the button for washer fluid that doesnt work either. This is going to suck not having wipers because its going to be raining tomorrow.


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Old 01-06-2007, 08:27 PM   #2
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It could be an evil coincidence that the switch went out at the same time you were working on the wiring. I assume you've checked all the re-wiring that you did thoroughly. It doesn't seem like the motor went out since everything else went out.

Maybe the tach was too much current for that circuit in the GEM, but let's hope not!! Speaking of GEM, I'd give the computer reset a try-- for kicks, because it's free, but don't hold your breath.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:45 PM   #3
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well I checked all the wires everything seems good and the battery was disconnected when I was doing all this. So, everything should be reset? Is there a way I could test the switch?
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:55 AM   #4
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You can most likely test the switch with continuity if you knew the right pins to check on it's steering column connector. Now, which connector that is under the car- I have no idea. You could try looking at the color of the hot wire and seeing if there's a connector under the dash on the steering column with 4 wires- assuming an individual connector per switch at the base of the column. I do not have an electrical manual to be able to check, and I haven't removed a switch before.

If you can find someone with the right information it should be a matter of testing continuity or resistance between the hot and wipers, rear wiper, or windshield cleaner. If you can't get continuity between any of the pins with the wipers on- then the switch is bad for some reason. You can use the same test- although you may need some scrap wire- to test the hot wire for short circuit.

Did that help?
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Last edited by whynotthinkwhynot; 01-07-2007 at 01:59 AM. Reason: I'm even worse at typing or thinking late at night
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:07 AM   #5
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Oh wow.. there should be connectors for the switch wires on the steering column, and the at the switch- maybe the switch connector was just barely touching

I once went to a house to find out how a guy killed all his upstairs lights by installing a ceiling fan. I figured he'd broken the hot in the light box- but when I got there, I saw the only thing in the box was a switch-leg. I looked around and found a junction box for the hot upstairs in the attic where some new bathroom lights had been installed. For however many years it had been since those lights were put in, 1/16" of neutral was making a connection (too many under one wire nut). Nothing he did had anything to do with the problem- it was 20' away in the attic!!

You'll find the problem if you test the circuit. If you have any questions after you find out more information from someone who's changed a switch, then holla back and I'll do my best to help.
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Old 01-07-2007, 09:24 AM   #6
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Well I figured it out. Well got lucky is more like it. I pulled the fuse again to make sure there was getting current. Which it was, but when I went to put the fuse back in I notice that the spot for the fuse looked weird and I couldnt figure out what it was so I pulled another fuse and compared and sure enough the bottom part was different I guess the little tie in piece I had in there for the tach had stretched it out and the bottom half of the fuse wasnt touching anything. So I tried taking a piece of wire stripping off both ends and placing that in the fuse spot. Boom the windshield wipers came on. So forced a small piece of copper wire into the bottom put the fuse back in and it works fine now. Thanks for you help.
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:46 AM   #7
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I had to slap myself around a few times after I read that. I can't believe I didn't think about that. I know when I used to "redneck" wire things in I screwed up my fuse holders just like what you're describing. I'd think about it if I was doing it myself, but thought never occurred to me while I was reading your description.

Thanks for returning and closing the thread!!

FYI: both fuse boxes can be removed by taking out a few screws. There's not much movement, but you can get to the back of each. The crimp on connectors you can purchase anywhere (stay-con) can be shoved into places where there are fuse slots, but no wiring. There will be a power connection on one side, and the other side of the fuse holder left blank where something was not installed- say power windows on a car without. Sometimes the other side will have a stay-con installed, but without wire. It can be removed with a 1/8" flat head or fat paperclip. Install your wire to the connector, then install a fuse, and whammo- factory look and overcurrent protection. There are also add-on fuse boxes- I think parts-express.com may have those (can't remember) you can install.
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