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Old 01-05-2007, 05:35 AM   #1
Godspeed9mm
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Champ oil fliters?

Double post.. sorry..


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Old 01-05-2007, 05:37 AM   #2
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CHAMP oil fliter???

Good or bad???

Only alt. was FRAM.

Its in right now.

Comments??


I could of got a FOMOCO, but it was like 15 euro.. crazy..
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Old 01-05-2007, 05:40 AM   #3
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Champ, or Champion? I did a quick Google and couldn't find Champ... unless it's European market only...
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Old 01-05-2007, 07:23 AM   #4
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Champion.. i looked it up, its the same thing.. its jsut abbrevieated on the box..
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:25 AM   #5
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http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Don't know if this will help you since it doesn't have all that much to say about Champ. Interestingly the Mobil 1 filter is mad!e by Champion Laboratory. (there are a limited number of filter makers). This is NOT to say that the Mobil 1 and the Champ are the same filters!
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:51 AM   #6
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Word, i assume that the filter is not cardboard then, after reviewing the link, any filter made by champion is lacking cardboard.. this is good news!

I suppose i will stick with this fiter, it was 4 dollars, but its better then 3.70 for a fram crap filter.

Thanks for the information.

Im happy :)

The Royal Purple didnt make any difference in the physical releam, my idel is still a tad rough since i have the lower energy mount. But nothing will really smooth that out.. I suppose for the price it has to have a benefit, but i will go with Mobile 1 full synthetic from now on.. Although pouring purple fluid into the car was interesting, i cant wait to see the end result, if you can see the trace of purple, of it will look like its tinted black like any normal oil..
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Old 01-05-2007, 02:05 PM   #7
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Godspeed9mm,
There are many, many posts on this forum about oil filters.
I posted some of this earlier, but the important thing is to read the oil filter study provided from the link.

Champ
?
This filter is manufactured by Champion Laboratories, Inc. (NOT the same guys who make the spark plugs), and is sold under several other brand names. Champion admits some of these outright, and they are: Lee, Lee Maxi, and STP.

The Champion design has metal end caps on the filter cartridge, with the bypass valve stamped right into the bottom end cap like the Purolator. I refer to this as a one-piece filter cartridge. Though definitely not the same design as the Purolator, it does use the same type of leaf-spring-type spacer at the top of the cartridge and the nitrile anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the cartridge-to-backplate seal, at the bottom. One issue is that I sometimes noticed was some rust on the backplate of these filters. Since the rust is usually around by the inlet holes, any loose rust would be caught by the filter.

The telltale signs for a Champion filter are: 6 large holes for the oil inlet, one of which is larger than the others. Only the black anti-drainback valve can be seen through the inlet holes. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the bypass valve spring. Usually, the backplate metal is dull, or even rusty.


*

If you read this without bias, you will never use a Fram filter again: cutting filters apart is one thing, sending oil samples in for analysis is quit another. The following is an excerpt from an exhaustive independent oil filter study:

"Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter."

Web site for study, descriptions, and results:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html


Oh, just trying to help protect your engine.

Later,
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Old 01-10-2007, 01:56 PM   #8
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Champ filters are good for the money.

AVOID Fram at all cost's. If you want to know why cut one apart and look for yourself.
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