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Old 12-23-2006, 12:03 PM   #1
pmac
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Recurring engine light code after repair...

Hi all...

I have a 2001 ZX3, about 130000 miles. Couple days ago engine light comes on, I brought it to a dealer, diagnoses engine code P0372, "Coil B Circuit Failure". They put in a ignition coil assembly (pn XS8Z-12029-AD). Car runs fine for a day or so, then the light comes back on.

I take the car to Autozone to get the code read (dealer that did the work is 50 miles away near where I work), the code is P0352 (Ignition coil B primary/secondary failure).

Could the part that was put in be bad? Or could there be some other issue causing this error? The guy at Autozone didn't have any suggestions beyond the ignition coil assembly. Is there any real difference between codes P0372 and P0352?

Thanks....


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Old 12-23-2006, 02:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmac View Post
Hi all...

I have a 2001 ZX3, about 130000 miles. Couple days ago engine light comes on, I brought it to a dealer, diagnoses engine code P0372, "Coil B Circuit Failure". They put in a ignition coil assembly (pn XS8Z-12029-AD). Car runs fine for a day or so, then the light comes back on.

I take the car to Autozone to get the code read (dealer that did the work is 50 miles away near where I work), the code is P0352 (Ignition coil B primary/secondary failure).

Could the part that was put in be bad? Or could there be some other issue causing this error? The guy at Autozone didn't have any suggestions beyond the ignition coil assembly. Is there any real difference between codes P0372 and P0352?

Thanks....
Make sure that the coil connections are clean and secure.
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Old 12-23-2006, 02:30 PM   #3
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Make sure that the coil connections are clean and secure.
Thanks, I will...

Actually, I also noticed that the B plug wire is cracked right at the flat end where it attaches to the plug.... it doesn't look like the crack goes down to the wire itself, but replacing the wires might not hurt, I guess (they've never been changed).

I also see, going thru my service records, that the ignition coil was replaced 2 years ago too, and I was only charged 1 hr of labor that time, as opposed to 2 this time by the same dealer. Another reason I should learn to do more of this myself..
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Old 12-23-2006, 04:56 PM   #4
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Well, I changed the plug wires and it didn't make a difference. The engine ran rough, but while driving it around it would start running normally (smooth, normal power) and then rough again, alternating.

So I left the engine running, opened the hood, and noticed if I moved the 3-wire harness attached to the ignition coil left to right and back again, the engine responded to that. I guess maybe there's a bad wire in there? Is that part easily replaced?

Thanks again....
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Old 12-26-2006, 06:32 PM   #5
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pmac,

Solder your new pigtail in if at all possible. On older copper, it makes a much longer-lasting repair. Regardless of whether you crimp or solder, be sure to seal the repair with heat-shrink tubing to make it weather proof.

Good luck with completing the repair.

- drjkel
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Old 01-01-2007, 07:14 PM   #6
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pmac,

Solder your new pigtail in if at all possible. On older copper, it makes a much longer-lasting repair. Regardless of whether you crimp or solder, be sure to seal the repair with heat-shrink tubing to make it weather proof.

Good luck with completing the repair.

- drjkel

Got the pigtail soldered in, works great, thanks again....

..... can anyone tell me how to get the engine light to go out now?

Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2007, 07:17 PM   #7
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Disconnet the battery.
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