My "How To" On Rewirng Of The Duratec... - Focus Fanatics
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:48 PM   #1
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My "How To" On Rewirng Of The Duratec...

Okay, after procrasting long enough, I will attempt to explain on how I accomplished this. I wish I had taken some pics during the process. But one I didn't know how well it would come out, and two I really didn't think of it. Also for those of you with '05 and up 2.0 & 2.3 Duratecs, I have noticed some slight differences in the wiring from my '04 2.3. But I would say 90% will also pertain to your motors as well. Anyway here goes:

Tools Needed:
1) Very sharp and fine cutting tool, exacto knife or scalpel. I used a scalpel.
2) Wire snips
3) Solder and soldering iron
4) Various gauges of wire for lengthening
5) Shrink wrap and electrical tape
6) Misc hand tools: screw drivers, wrenches, sockets, etc. These you might need to loosen up some brackets, mounts etc.
7) Digital camera for reference shots
7) And lastly & most importantly, a lot of patience. This process will take awhile. Just take your time and take some pics every now & then to play it safe.

Step 1:
If possible put your car up on ramps. One it will take a little strain off your back due to constantly having to be bent over. Also you might have to get under the car to free up some slack in some parts of the harness. My harness was not 100% in its stock position due to my motor transplant back in March

Step 2: (This is not a mandatory step)
This is for those of you who want to put some loom over your fuel line like I did. Much easier to do that when the fuel line if off the car. So ater putting the car up on ramps, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, (#13 I think), start the car and let it run until it just stalls out. This will depressurize the fuel system so when you pull the fuel line off, gas wont' be squirting all over. In addition, if you do do this, I know its common sense, put just wait until the motor has fully cooled off before removing the fuel line.

Step 3:
Disconnect the battery and remove it. I found the battery was just getting into my way at times, so I just took it out.

Step 4:
Now at this time, just take a long look at your motor and the wiring, and try to get a good feel of where everything is, what it is and where it goes. The digi cam will come in handy at this time. I was fortunate, my wife drives an '03 2.3 so I could always revert to that if I needed to.

Step 5:
Unclip the main electrical coupling right on top of the valve cover. That is grey in color, at least mine is, not sure on the '05 and up Duratecs. You will have to cut away some tape holding that coupling to the rest of the harness, so as to seperate the two sides. Once seperated, take the "R" side and just tuck it out of the away somewhere. You will not have to mess with that until you get to the point where you reconnect it after the rewiring is done. The "L" side of that coupling is where all the work will be. You will easily spend 60% of your time doing this project wth the "L" side. This is due to the fact that the coil packs, injectors and basically every other electrical connection on or around the valve cover feeds into that harness.

Step 6:
Now the "real" fun begins. This is when you have to start cutting into the harness so as to seperate all of those wires. This is where your patient comes in handy. Just take your time and go slow. I started all the way over on to left side of the harness and worked my way to the right. You will be able to seperate the injector wires quite easily, at least mine did. Its the coil pack wires that are the PITA. If memory serves me, they are connected at two different points; 1) into that side of the coupling, 2) further down on the line towards the "R" side of the valve cover.

First little problem I encountered with those coil pack wires is where they were connected into the coupling. All of the wires were twisted together, so I had to cut and splice the four individual wires to seperate them from the rest. When you get to that point, you will see what I mean. I didn't lengthen anything at that time, just cut them one at a time, sepeated it from the main bundle and reconnected them.

Once all of the tape, loom etc is off all of the wires feeding into that harness, start manipulating them around to see where you need to cut and lengthen. After some fine tuning I ended up putting the reconnected coupling behind the heat shield for some added protection. I initially had it running along the back side of the valve cover, but a fellow 'Jeter, "Egz" kind of put a bug in my hear about the possibility of a heat issue coming from the exhaust manifold.

At this time point this is where you will need to do some cutting and lengthening of if I remember correctly about 4-5 wires to accomplish this. As with the coil pack wires, do one at a time so an not to cross anything.

At the top "L" hand corner of the valve cover, (at least on the '03-'04 2.3's) there is an L shaped bracket holding the upper portion of that harness, an O2 sensor wire and some type of grounding wire, (I think it has to do with the radio?). I removed that bracket completely. Took the ground wire and just reattaced it to where that bracket was screwed into the block. Again you will see what I mean. I also had to lengthen the wires from the O2 sensor about 6-8" so I could run it too behind the heat shield.

Basically after all those wires are seperated, spliced and lengthened as needed, all you need to do to them is just retape, reloom, etc, and most of the hard tedious work is done.

Step 7:
Now its time to the "fine tuning" of rerouting some of the other hoses and wires.
1) There is a harness that runs on the "L" side of the valve cover, running from the altenator I believe down the front of the car. attached to the dipstick tube. I basically unsecured it from the dipstick tube and at all the other little mounting points as it makes its way toward the altenator. There is enough slack in it that I was able to tuck it away under the coolant resevoir and its hoses. Again you will see what I mean....
2) Now regarding the breather tube running from the CAI to the back of the valve cover. I run a K&N AirCharger CAI, so depending on what you use, this step maybe a little different.

Between the "R" side of the valve cover and the battery on my 2.3 there is a round valve/solenoid(?). The bracket holding that on has a nice space where I was able to tuck some wires and hoses under it. One being the breather hose for the CAI. I had to trim a little off the "L" shaped rubber tube coming off the valve cover where that breather hose is attached. Had to do this so I wouldn't crimp the breather hose in anyway since it is a hard plastic piece & doesn't like to be bent really severely. Again this step will be different depending on your CAI and tubing.

3) I also tucked the hose running from the back of the firewall running all the way to the intake manifold, right under the TB. Its the hose that is attached to the top of the TB by a little clip, then loops underneath it. I also was able to manipulate the hose under the CAI also to get it out of sight.

4) I was also able to "clean" up that little mess sitting on top of the radiaor support. That was probably the easiest part of this whole thing. After unclipping everyting just kind of tucked it down in front of the motor zipped tied it. I did have to cut, trim off about 3"- 4" of rubber tubing where that hard plastic coolant tubing goes into. This again was to accomplish the rerouting, moving of that hard plastic coolant tube.

5) At this point it basically comes down to simple rerouting of the various vacum lines, tubes, misc wires etc. Just a little trial by error, just have to move around some "stuff" to see what fits and looks right.

Well thats about the nuts and bolts of it. As someone had already stated, its not "rocket science", just takes time and some patience. If I remember anything else that I have forgotten, or if someone points it out to me, I will edit this posting.



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Old 11-04-2006, 04:54 PM   #2
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that looks great man
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:09 PM   #3
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wow very clean lookin, all dura owners need to do this one!
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:21 PM   #4
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I'll add some.

Label everything. While most things are unique, I found labeling all the plugs helped me in organizing where they will go. At a minimum, label the coil packs and injectors, since you don't want to mix them up.

When you get the Ford wire loom off, you'll see bunch of heat-shrink coverings here and there, with a bunch of wires in them. Each one of those is a splice, and all the wires running in and out of are are spliced together there. I spent half an hour carefully removing the heat-shrink just to find that out.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:18 PM   #5
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<< wrong username
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:24 PM   #6
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i think im gonna do this next..
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Originally Posted by norcalfocus01 View Post
You may be making that much hp but I'm sure your not making that torque. The 2.3 is a torquey SOB.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:57 AM   #7
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why didn't our motors come like that to begin with?? nice job man, sweet write up.
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:56 AM   #8
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because it takes more wire, and companies cut costs by saving pennies on wiring
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:38 PM   #9
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is there any downsides to extending the wires to all of these things? Im just wondering.
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:36 AM   #10
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You aren't extending it by much. But if you use too thin a wire (which is actually kind of hard), or you run it really far, you can get a voltage drop that will give the ECU false readings. When I did mine, I used a little thicker gauge wire to compensate for the added length.
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