well i got the new clutch because the stock one wouldn't catch on well, and let me tell you, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS CLUTCH FOR ITS PRICE! Its 200 dollars from mcnews, but you'll need a new throwout bearing for another 100, so its 300 for everything. When i pulled out of the shop, i stalled right away. This clutch catches on quick, and it makes my car feel real stiff/solid now when shifting. But i can't test its limits till i break it in for 450 miles.
What type of mods do you all have? I have always hated my stock clutch and want something better. But I always thought you had to have a serious setup, like street racing with boost to make one of these clutches necessary! Can this clutch be useful with a stock setup or no?
just fyi, Most clutches today don't come with a tob since its part of the slave cylinder, but spec clutches send you the whole deal, they have some great lower power clutches and some that hold the most hp/tq a focus can imagine. I quit clutchmasters now that 3 have shelled on us, and have switched to spec. I have seen all the products they offer and they are impressive indeed. Just a note to those in this thread who may be shopping.
The different stages of clutches just means they can handle more tq/hp? Ex. Im running 200hp, getting a stage 2 spec clutch that handles 279hp is a waste of money when you can get the stage 1 that handle 259hp? It says they're made of different materials but is the $100 difference between stage 1 and stage 2 worth it?
If you're putting out 200whp on a focus you should have a stg III imo. 6 puck is a lot easier to drive than a 4 puck. Depending on how you get the power, you'll need to decide for yourself which you need. If you have 150whp and shoot a 150 shot of nitrous, you'll need more for example. talk it over with whoever is selling the clutch. If you have questions look up spec's number on their website, I've spent hours on the phone with them, very knowledgeable and helpful people. customer service second to none. Even if you use someone else's clutch.
I for example, am running a 180-200whp n/a car that'll see a lot of abuse in high rpm's and nitrous. They set me up with a spec stg III 4 puck, but I told them with my lightened rotating assembly, the 4 puck grabs too much, so they recommended the stg III 6 puck. same pp, but diff disk. It's all about the torque more than the hp it can handle. You also need to make sure it can take the rpm's.
Well, if you have one of the 95% of the zetecs on the planet that's putting 100-130whp down, a stage I or centerforce is all you'll ever need. If you go from a mush, abused factory one to a brand new one like this, it's like night and day. If you try to run nitrous on a car or put down 160whp and abuse it, it'll likely come apart. My theory is to buy a clutch once, buy more than you need, but not so much that it'll hurt your performance. That being said, I'm on my 3rd clutch in about a year. haha.
If so, you need more of a clutch. 99% of foci owners do not, therefore this is a decent product that's better than stock, but not a racing clutch, for mild engines. That's what it's advertised as, that's what people buy it for. If you want to say "my car puts out 150whp and revs to 7500 often, and I run the bottle on it, and this clutch didn't last at all in my car" then its your fault for buying the wrong clutch in the first place, taking the cheap way out. That is not what this product is designed or advertised to do. I don't understand the problem here I guess.
I had a custom stg IV clutchmasters 4 puck clutch built for high revs (8k+), I abused the hell out of it with nitrous and hard race driving. It shelled out on me, came to pieces and took my flywheel and trans housing with it. I'm not gonna come on here and tell someone who has 110whp or less, that clutchmasters suck because mine broke. They could probably run a lesser one and live happily ever after. See? This guy bought a product, it's an improvement on what he had previously. He's happy about it, decided to come share his good experience with the world. Why tell him it sucks?
let's see, buy a new stock clutch from the dealer for twice the price, just to wear it out again in no time.... or buy a tougher clutch for cheaper, and get off the line in half the time as stock...hmmm, ill take the centerforce
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