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Old 07-10-2013, 08:47 PM   #31
amc49
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The black side is indeed the correct one for sensor to read, the other side can be many colors but not black.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:13 PM   #32
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Last week i replaced both Axles, both trans seals, both hubs, and both wheel bearings. New trans fluid as well.

Here's what I used:

Axles: Cardone Part #'s 662143 & 662144 from Rockauto.com (Rock Auto lists the 662143 as being for the 4spd Auto trans BUT according to Cardone's website, this fits the 5 speed as well. http://www.cardone.com/find-parts/ve...ocus&year=2001

Hubs & Bearings: CENTRIC 40361001E from Rockauto.com

Trans seals: NAPA (don't have the part numbers off hand)

Trans fluid: Motorcraft XT-M5-QS

Notes: The axles come with new axles nuts, and so do the hub/bearing kits. So i have extras. The passenger side axles has a new carrier bearing already attached. The bearings were black on BOTH sides.

My install was pretty easy. Actually the hardest part was getting the old trans seals out. I assume they were original. The dealer had to special order the trans fluid, but likely they were too stupid to charge me for both bottles of it. So i got 2 bottles for $22 roughly. The dealer also didn't have the trans seals, so I got them over-nighted from NAPA.

I took the spindles/hubs/bearings to work and pressed them out on a 15 ton press. Would have been super easy had i soaked them in PB Blaster. The snap rings were the hardest part to get out actually.

I noticed the holes where my caliper guide pins screw into; were looking pretty bad from rust. I drilled them out, welded them, drilled and tapped again. New guide pins fit great now.

I used lots of high temp Moly lube on the hub/bearing/axle side.

The new trans fluid is 100% better than the old gunk that was in there.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #33
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wheel bearing

just finished front left wheel bearing, had trouble getting ABS sensor back in. opened up the haynes manual and realized i never checked the c clip. got it all back together and now the ABS light is on...... i bought a "national" bearing and when i checked the clip i noticed the logo could be seen on the bearing on the "car" side of bearing. i'm hoping it was put in the right direction, or possibly i was too aggressive with sensor... tried clearing the light with the old "unplug the battery" method (no luck) next ill use the part store's code scanner to clear. the car makes no more noises bearing glides smooth. any help appreciated. thanks
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:35 AM   #34
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i got the code c1233 left front no signal, im starting to think these guys put the bearing in backwards but of course i guess ill have to take it all apart to find out....
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #35
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Without a hydraulic press, what can be done?

[edit]

Will this type if "hydraulic press" work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqtdfb1dJ5I
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrinkledCheese View Post
Without a hydraulic press, what can be done?

[edit]

Will this type if "hydraulic press" work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqtdfb1dJ5I
As others have posted, the bearings are extremely tight fit. Rust on older cars make it worse. My press is 12 ton from harbor freight which cost about $125. It was pushed to the brink of it's rating to bust the old bearings loose on my 2007 with very little rust. Also the spindle assembly is very large and oddly shaped, so the working surface of the press needs to be wide. A cobbled up setup with less than 10 ton rating will likely not work. The solution is to flush at least $100 for a big hydraulic press or find a shop with skills to do it.
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