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Old 09-29-2013, 08:59 PM   #21
amc49
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I bet makuloco2000 is right. I bet the bolts were breaking.

I know that 6mm. bolts can commonly begin to pull aluminum thread around 120 in.lbs. or so, seen it several times on other engines. Or, around 10 ft.lbs. I lower to 7 ft.lbs. to stop that but 7NM he quotes is actually around 5+ ft.lbs, the bolts break easier than the thread strips in these apparently. The previous 10NM is close to 7ft.lbs. Betting I need to lower my number a bit now, at least on these. Good catch there 'tween you both. Gonna mark my book as so.

I spit the number out there but I do not torque the covers at all, I hit solid and then a bit more, the bolts will not back out because they are backed up by loaded rubber, bolts rarely back out under those conditions. Basically I hit and then just a smidge more to guarantee bolt is down solid, no real torque there.

Long story short for all those reading that don't like numbers, it's even easier to break these zetec valve cover bolts than we thought.

Might wanna use 7NM or 5 ft.lbs. Lower is probably better in this case.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:08 PM   #22
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I made the change in my book.

Dealers get updated information all the time that we don't know about. Factory,Haynes, etc. manuals are locked in when they are printed. Dealers get online manuals that are constantly updated. Nice!
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
'Hard Steel razor blade on a soft aluminum surface, the soft aluminum will win that everytime...right.'

Aluminum pistons do it millions of times inside iron liners, you don't seem to have a problem with that...........

TECHNIQUE bucko.

Petty? Huh.

You didn't lift a finger to blow off the cover with air, even though dirt, leaves and all else piled on to fall in valvetrain when you remove cover, which, in the video you do by bumping it against the valvetrain to knock stuff loose to fall in motor. You use a single lift-and-away movement there. Oh I know it's not your personal engine!

You clearly do not twist the plug wire heads first to break the rubber loose, it commonly sticks just like the gasket does to head. Simply yanking them often tears the plug wire internally right where it enters the bug rubber head molding since the head is low and gives way, and common human nature is to get more grab instinctively by catching the wire entry up in fingers as well. So, additional spark plug wire sale there, huh. Very common on these engines to do that. Petty?

How many throttle and cruise cables do you sell by lifting them and flopping them around like in vid, they break the crap plastic housing at the end fittings super easy from that type of movement. You disturb them as little as possible, certainly no lifting beyond what you absolutely must to clear cover in/out.

You use what appears to be a towel that could have much lint in it and maybe even garbage, either new and has lint, since it hasn't washed out yet, or old recleaned shop towel-they often have pieces of metal in them. In short you are adding trash not removing it. Wiping off cam lobes? Why, where's the logic in that? Rest assured that until you cracked that cover they were clean. If there can be no scotchbrite damage as claimed then why? Shoulda blown that cover off! If dirty you can clearly see it, if not that is the only oil on them for startup for probably 2-3 seconds, cams will turn a hundred times by then. The proper thing is to OIL them just before throwing cover back on. Hmm, musta missed that in the vid. Dry startup on lobes an excellent idea there, more of the 'let's help wear out engine early so they have to buy another car' mentality they teach at Ford.

Lastly, no mention of people breaking bolts off and why, the big immediate problem after not getting grooves clean enough. Groove not clean=gasket not sealing to leak=overtorquing bolt to stop it=broken bolt.

Petty? I'd rather you call me unimpressed. You gotta do better than that.

And y'all are supposed to be the experts................

Luck with the blue oval.............
Few points here you are wrong on, might be my editing so it's not your fault but you brought it up. I will go in order.

What touches the steel cylinder bore.....wait for it......steel piston rings!!!! Duh the rings wear into the cylinder bore, the aluminum piston floats in the cylinder on a thin film of oil. It does have some side loading upon tdc and bdc points yes but the ultimate contact is still steel on steel guy.

I did blow it off with my long reach air nozzle, for a good while. If you've ever worked on cars you know that not everything will come off. This is my pet pieve actually and you can see later in the video when I am actually pulling the cover off it is much cleaner air cleaned wise. This actually erks me allot when I do intake gaskets on a V engine, you can only blow so much off and out shop air is at 160psi so how much higher can we go here.

Ok you got me the cover was loose already for filming purposes the cover was loosened all the way and set into place for the one handed film and one handed work I was doing. Sorry I was making a video but still wanted to pull it right so I put the camera down.

If you listen to me in the video and I know I don't talk too loud since I am at work but I do say that this car had a bad misfire from one of the coils being cracked in the coil pack and that was the reason the car was brought in. At this mileage and age we sold them plugs and wire due to the oil leaking into the spark plug well also, soooo yes I just yanked them out they were garbage, do you gently throw garbage away too?

Throttle cables- Buddy I have been working on these cars for over 10 years and have never seen a throttle cable retainer break, before or after a repair ever! Oh and these ones didn't either, imagine that. Dude unless you work on these everyday like I do and have the experience its best not to assume...

How would scotch brite pad material get up onto the cam lobes? crazy? Unless there is a wind storm in the shop.

Also yes the rags are cleaned by a service and check for metal. They used to be bad about metal in the rags not no more though got real strict. Uh yes I use the clean shop rags provided, We do not go out and buy lint free towels or rags just for engine jobs and I can bet 9 out of 10 ford nisssan Honda Toyota dealers you call will tell you the same.

You are living in a fantasy world dude, you are the one who hangs by the bay door and tells the tech you know so much and this is how you do it and how wrong they are and then we ask.......well why in the world did you bring it to me if you have all the answers, why not just fix it yourself?????

I re oil my cam lobes before start up there guy got a nifty little hand pump oil squirter I BOUGHT JUST FOR THIS REASON. Lets leave em dry so we can sell them an engine sooner you say? who has that mentality. If I never have to pull another engine let alone a dirty oily greasy grimey very rust bucket zetec engine out again I will be living in paradise. I would rather do a check engine light and get paid 1.5 hrs for 15 min of clean work and do those jobs all day long, and I get them too cause I am sharp like that.

Breaking bolts- I do not mention broken bolts because again I have never seen a focus motor with broken bolts, if ford torques them right at the factory and no one touched them???? I belive in torques specs, and torque sequences. That way I know its done to what the engineers think is best and I don't have comebacks then. Comebacks really bother me allot, the less I have the better, and I am at the point in my career where they are virually noexistent, which is great for me and the customer and Ford. I just had to fix a transmission issue on a new fiesta that another ford dealer couldn't get right, and ford called upon me to make this customer happy and do it right and said they wouldn't even count it against our warranty report. Gee I think my dealer, and Ford must know me allot better than you sir.

Anyway you have rubbed me the wrong way, you may post a response I will not reply I am done proving myself to you, and wasting my time. I am just trying to help people, I would not steer them wrong, also the video is free help whens the last time you got a free anything I mean come on, no I am not perfect, nor is my explaination and editing. You have to forgive me please as this was one of my first videos.
The people that matter in Detroit know who I am and the things I make happen over and over again .....
Again THANK YOU SO MUCH for watching my video, I appreciate it. May peace be with you.......
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Last edited by makuloco2000; 09-30-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:48 AM   #24
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'You are living in a fantasy world dude, you are the one who hangs by the bay door and tells the tech you know so much and this is how you do it and how wrong they are and then we ask.......well why in the world did you bring it to me if you have all the answers, why not just fix it yourself?????'

Dream on. No one has ever worked on my cars my entire life. I fix anything that goes wrong from ATX to front end to, well, you name it, I've done it. I need no dealership at all. I can do things your dealership and you put together cannot. Done it hundreds of times. LOL..........just rebuilt a Focus radio today for $1.86 worth of part and maybe fifty cents worth of solder. Let's see the dealership or you do that.

Our shop was across the street from a GM dealership, we fixed cars they couldn't. We built all their guys race engines when they couldn't touch ours. 395 inch AMERICAN MOTORS engines that ran away from GM 454s in high gear drag racing. And you are lecturing me about piston support and piston rings, LOL. It could just as easily been a Ford dealership, no difference.

Read some of my posts-you might learn something they don't teach in Ford manuals, Lord knows there's enough out there.............luck.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:24 PM   #25
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Guys, a little bit of emery or scotch brite when used carefully, cleaned with compressed air and vacuumed out will do nothing to the motor in the long scheme of things. If anything, run the motor and most will get caught by the oil filter.

Now if one were to use emery/scotch and leave all the residue in the motor, or to "sand" in the wrong direction yes, your asking for trouble.

Am I saying that none of it remains in the engine?, no i'm not. But what does remain when handled with care as the OP did, I really don't think will do much.

I have to say the sealing surfaces on the head were shiny as hell and that's whats wanted.

Just my two cents.
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Update from dealer:
Service advisor received a letter from Ford corp "engineer". Letter "email" states no reverse is from motor swap install. Ford engineer recommends putting original motor back in.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #26
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Why thanks for the reinforcement, yes it was handled with care and used only on stubborn spots so the surface could be smooth as possible for the best sealing surface possible, at this point the prep is done right and it is up to the gasket to do it's job and not become brittle and compressed as the original factory ones did, I truly believe the new ones from Ford have fixed this issue and have yet to see a leaky gasket come back.
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