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Oil change time!

3K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  Andrews-bad-SE 
#1 ·
The time has come (after some road trippage, and a few months since last I did it) to change my oil.

I have an '03 Zetec sedan with 140k on the clock now. I have a short ram intake and flexback exhaust, and I don't race it too much at all. Really it's my DD.

So I'm looking for ideas on oil! I've been strictly using full synthetic since I got it, but brands? Filters? I need some input.

I hear that regular Motorcraft 5w20 Blend and a Motorcraft filter is absolutely fine, but I'm open to ideas.
 
#3 ·
I think choosing a brand of oil is an intensely personal choice, fraught with danger to those that tout one brand over another on discussion boards, something like talking about your favorite brand of beer. That said, I'm very interested in what people have to say on the subject. I've always been a fan of Purolator / Mann or Bosch filters and just can't stand putting a Fram filter anywhere near my car. I've never been a big proponent of synthetic because I haven't had a new car lately, but I'm certainly willing to entertain the idea now because of my new(ish) ride. I actually have half a mind to get the oil changed at the dealer while the car is still under warranty.
 
#8 ·
I use mobil one synthetic, I swear by synthetic motor oil compared to normal oil. I have seen the difference between motors that use synthetic vs regular motor oil after you pull them apart, and its gross. As far as the filters go, i use motorcraft, but another great filter would be bosch. Advance auto parts does oil deals every month where you can get synthetic, with a high end filter.
 
#10 ·
I've always used Castrol in the gold bottle with a Purolator Synthetic or K&N filter.

I'm not going to have to rebuild my engine in the next year, it's really clean and in great shape, inside and out.

I'm just interested in what people are using anymore, maybe there's something great out there that I haven't heard of yet.
 
#11 ·
Which weight of Castrol syn have you been using? I used to be a died-in-the-wool Castrol fan, but when I learned about the court case they brought to legally call highly refined petroleum oil 'synthetic', I switched to Mobil 1. Amsoil would be my next choice.

I think Purolator filters are the best value in a high-quality filter. (The Pure One line was rated #2 overall (in both cold flow & filtration efficiency) by AC Delco when they had their super-premium UltraGuard Gold line.) But my own Used Oil Analysis results showed that I got no worse filtration from their standard filter, so I switched to that instead.

I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in the '02 Focus wagon's Zetec. It's fortified additive package (over M1 0W-20, 5W-20 & 0W-30) give it extended longevity in any engine. Based on several years' worth of Used Oil Analysis in my other cars, I'm completely comfortable running this oil in this engine for 2 yrs/20k miles.
 
#12 ·
I've been using just the 5w20 syn. It stays clean and in good shape for well over 3 or 4k, but I never let it get that far lol.

What kind of mileage are you getting with the 0w40? I work far enough from home to worry about gas mileage now. I was actually thinking of switching over to the Mobil 1 0w20, as it states that it meets the same cold-start and hi-temp lubricity standards as the 5w20. Is the 40weight not a little thicker? I'm somewhat green in the areas of oil specifications and testing, I just have a pretty good handle on what's good and what's junk.

Thanks for the tip!
 
#15 ·
... What kind of mileage are you getting with the 0w40? I work far enough from home to worry about gas mileage now. I was actually thinking of switching over to the Mobil 1 0w20, as it states that it meets the same cold-start and hi-temp lubricity standards as the 5w20. Is the 40weight not a little thicker? ...
I can't say what kind of mileage the Focus is getting (my daughter drives it), but I can tell you that I see no difference in mileage on my Saabs changing from one Mobil 1 syn to another. I've used Mobil 1 10W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40 & 15W-50, & they all return the same fuel economy.

I saw a noticeable (10%) benefit switching from conventional oil to Mobil 1 in my Saabs, but nothing really changes from switching between different Mobil 1 viscosities. I think the car manufacturers notice something like 1% fuel efficiency increases by changing to lighter viscosity oils, but that's under controlled test conditions. Once you & I are driving our cars in the real world, it's harder (impossible?) to see any economy benefits from viscosity changes alone.

Now, if I had a very efficient (60+ mpg) hybrid, then I might be able to tell a difference simply because my entire vehicle is already optimized for fuel efficiency. So changing one thing like engine oil viscosity has a larger impact on the whole 'efficiency system'. But not on my 30-35 mpg cars.

You'll see bigger fuel efficiency gains by keeping on top of routine maintenance & modifying your driving habits. For example, I see a 30%-35% fuel efficiency increase by driving 65 mph on the highway instead of 80 mph. I used to have an hour-long commute which had about 30 miles of highway driving in the middle of it. Slowing down to 65 mph added 5 minutes to my total commute time. I didn't care; for a 30% efficiency gain, it was worth it to me.
 
#14 ·
I use Mobil 1 5-30wt Extened Performance.

I am thinking about going with a filter for a small block Ford.

More filter, more protection at 190,xxx
 
#16 ·
As I've been doing a lot of road trips (St. Louis area to Cleveland and back) I've definitely been trying to optimize fuel efficiency. I always keep up on plugs/wires, air filter, fuel filter, etc. Everything I can think of, and I always kept it at 65mph. I know that less RPM's x more MPH means fuel economy lol. I've found that 60 or 65 keeps it nice and efficient. Also with tire pressure... Definitely important. I have 205/45ZR17's on my EAP wheels, and I put 36psi in all four, I found it helps with the economy issue.

Thanks a lot for the insight on the oil, I'll definitely be considering what you mentioned when I make my purchase.

[driving]
 
#36 ·
It sounds like you're already doing more than most people to optimize your mpg. [thumb] Staying with full syn oil will not only keep your mpgs as high as possible, but it also helps to protect your engine with less investment of time & money on your part. (For example, if you'd normally change "cheap" oil & a filter every 3000 miles, then you'll easily go 10000 mi between changes on M1 0W-40. So you save both the money & the time spent doing 2 complete oil changes, & also get better engine protection the entire time!)

Here's another thing to consider if you really go off the deep end in your quest for higher mpg:
Switching to lighter wheels & tires reduces the work it takes for your engine to spin heavier wheels up to speed. Simply switching tire brands could save a couple of pounds per tire. In your case, switching to 16" rims & narrower tires could easily save even more of weight off each corner. You'll also get lower rolling resistance, which adds to the mpg total.
 
#17 ·
If you're still doing those road trips this summer, you'll be in the right area for the "Focus Fest" !!!

With the Motorcraft oil avail. at WalMart (Ford Parts Guy actually was the first to send me there, they had it cheaper than his cost) I stick to the Factory Fill for now. Synthetic blend is decent stuff & mine gets low miles between changes so it works for MY use pattern. If I did a lot of miles, or "Track Days", I'd prob. upgrade to Mobil 1.

The Motorcraft & Wix recommendations are common, NAPA Gold gets some votes (Wix product?). Only other filter comment from me is to change it MORE often than Oil, NEVER less! Some Folks used to change it every other oil change, but it's been shown through oil analysis that filtration is MORE important than changing out oil that's still good. Getting the crud out is what counts, so cleaning the oil is good. When doing extended oil change intervals with synthetics, changing the filter at "normal" drain intervals is generally recommended.

One "Bud" of mine has kept a 944 going more than 25 yrs. of HIS ownership with Mobil 1, including track time & there are lots of similar stories. Changing it is more important than brand, you'll notice many brands will guarantee your engine if you use their products religiously!

luck!
 
#21 ·
My dad found this great article about this guy that went out and tested all the different types of oils different weights and everything the one that came out on top for the 5w30 fully synthetic was castrol edge with titanium fluid strength technology if i recall correctly if not it was right at the top of the list he did many different various tests I will have to see if I can find my source...

But I have been using that ever since and my svt focus seems to love it :)
 
#27 ·
It's relevant nonetheless. A car is a big investment, and there's no reason to neglect or not take care of it, beit a brand new Ferrari or a high-mileage Focus. I'm like a lot of people here. My car is not just my hobby or my project, it's also my only reliable source of transportation. While the differences in oil may be small, they still matter enough to me (and I'm sure others as well) to take a moment and see what options are out there and what experiences others have had. That being said, I know my car isn't a real high-performance racing machine. But it is my car, that I've worked countless hours on to make it what it is. This forum is about comradery among automotive enthusiasts (Focus or otherwise) and helping eachother out, not poking fun or being condescending.
 
#30 ·
Some vehicles can be an investment.... however the Focus is most likely not one of them. However what was the price tag for the RS 500 new and what would some one pay for it in mint condition? Their are many cars that can be an investment, but most of those are not made by US car companies.

What is the thought of thew remote dual oil systems like Amsoil has that uses a regular filter and then a "super" filter that slowly filters out the even finer particles? I know their have been concerns that the oil coolers for our motors are not needed and can cause for a longer delay in getting oil pressure. I am guessing the same thing applies to this. But would provide better filtering, perhaps only a need if you have a turbo that making your oil more dirty?


http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...unts/general-use-dual-remote-oil-bypass-unit/
 
#31 ·
A new car will never be an investment as better models are released every year.

As for your statement some cars can be, that may be true but Facebook stock is a safer investment than a car. The car gets wrecked gone. Stolen, gone. Get my point?

A car is the exact opposite of an investment.

Let's break it down driving 12k a year that you paid cash for

New car - 20k (taxed and titled no registration)
Immediate depreciation -4k
Registration (big dif from state to state so ill go with Ohio) -50
1 years worth of maint - 200
1 years insurance - 800
1 years fuel - 1,400
1 years car washes and wax - 125
Final depreciation after 1 year 1500

After 1 year you've now have a car that is only worth 14,500 dollars and you've spent 2,425 dollars just to keep on the road meaning you've lost nearly 8,000 dollars the first year alone

Now lets say the next 2 years are identical are identical except another
Depreciation -3k
Maint - 400
Insurance - 1600
Fuel - 2800
Car washes and wax - 250
Reg- 100

After the first three years you have a car worth 11,500 with 7,575 into keepin it on the road. If you were to sell it after 3 years you would only have 3,925 dollars out of the original cost of the car making for a loss of 16,075 on a 20,000 investment

Now lets jump 2 more years ahead into year 5
Depreciation - 3k
Maint - 400
Tires - 500
Trans service - 150
Alignment - 100
Insurance - (benefit of doubt and lowering rate) -800
Registration - 100
Fuel - 2800
Wash and wax - 250

A grand total of 12825 dollars into a 20k car after just 5 years just to keep it running for a car you can only sell for 8500 dollars

After that 32,825 ( total into the to keep it running and legal) and subtract that from 8500 you are now 24,325 dollars in the red.

Cars sure sound like great investments. Durrrr
 
#32 ·
This is getting way off topic... I have noticed many of your posts are rather irrelevant to the OP questions.

Investment: from wikipedia... because everything on the internet is true!!!

"In economics or macroeconomics

In economic theory or in macroeconomics, investment is the amount purchased per unit time of goods which are not consumed but are to be used for future production (i.e. capital)."

"In finance

In finance, investment is the application of funds to hold assets over a longer term in the hope of achieving gains and/or receiving income from those assets."

Nothing says that an investment has to directly bring you monetary gain upon a resale.

Does the vehicle get you to work to have a job to make money? Will it, being a hobby, bring you satisfaction in your life and make you happy? Can you use is as collateral to secure a loan? Does it provide a last resort shelter if home is lost? Most vehicles can be an investment. It all depends on what your definition of an investment it.

I bet most owners of the cars found at link (http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/pictures/10-modern-day-collectors-cars#slide-1) would not have thought that it would be an investment.

In regards to the OP and oil. I usually find a name brand oil and stay with it and the oil filter. This is usually due to being able to buy in bulk both the filters and the oil and saving money. Change on regular basis, (I usually do 6k miles on the oil with 3k on the filter (synthetic)) and you will be fine. I also don't like "combining" oils because the ratio of detergents and other such things may not mesh all that well. that why most people also discourage the use of oil additives.
 
#34 ·
It could be argued that it is. by investing in a month or yearly buss pass your saving $x.xx you also are investing in cleaner air quality, not to mention you would have more free time since your not driving you can catch up on cat videos on line or do some of your investment banking, study current events or area of interest and investing in your own knowledge.

Anything can be an investment, it all depends on the intent and use behind the purchase.
 
#35 ·
Bottom line is a car is not an investment and if it is an investment it's about the worst investment you can make using my example of a 20k car over 5 years you ended up 25k in the hole assuming you can sell it for 8,500 dollars which after 5 years is never going to happen with a 20k car

Buy gently used 2-4 year old cars, let the original idiot who bought it get bitten on the depreciation.

Also, you got trolled. HARD
 
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