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Old 09-24-2013, 06:46 AM   #11
tryingtofixthis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
P0301 is misfire on cyl 1 my fellow bullet dodging Memphian.

DTC codes with Detailed Descriptions
I highly recommend using those descriptions for these cars over the generic descriptions that come with scanners. Please note that the possible causes are not separated from the test description- the first cause is in the same paragraph as the test description.

P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input The MAF sensor circuit is monitored by the PCM for high air flow (or voltage) input through the comprehensive component monitor (CCM). If during key ON engine OFF or key ON engine running the air flow (or voltage) changes above a maximum calibrated limit, the test fails.
Possible causes:
MAF sensor screen is blocked
MAF circuit shorted to VPWR
Damaged MAF sensor
Damaged PCM
A MAF V PID (MAF PID) reading less than 4.6 volts (Refer to equivalent grams/second chart in GO to Pinpoint Test DC ) in continuous memory or key ON and engine running indicates a hard fault.
Maf shouls' be fine, pcm should also be fine. An interuped cicuit seems possible but where? Because it most likely isnt harness. I do have a 30 amp fuse that Is not busted but a little black around the edges could this inhibit electeical flow under load? It is for the fuel/ignition system I believe.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:18 AM   #12
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If it's bogging under heavy acceleration, a MAF related issue sounds pretty ballpark to me. Make sure the intake tube is sealed well at the intake and air box ends, and check the wiring harness to the MAF. Just because the wiring harness was "good" when you yanked it from the other car, wires that have been fixed in one position for years don't like being twisted, kinked, and shoved around into another car. When I did my Ranger's engine swap I had a MAF wire pull loose on my harness. Unfortunately I bought a new MAF before I realized what was actually wrong. But usually a MAF problem will present itself at idle also. A bad MAF will usually keep a car from idling at all.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:24 AM   #13
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Another thought, when cars runs great when cold, then run worse and worse as they reach NOT, that's often a symptom of a bad ignition coil. In my experience, when you have problems after a major swap, it's usually not an obscure, rare, or unusual problem, it's something simple that you disregard and say "that part should be fine".

I think at trip to autozone to get codes again would be a good place to start.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:39 AM   #14
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Thanks for the food for.thought.

The biggest problem bit also good evidence is that the problem travelled from old engime to new so anyways im starting to think on relays and swapping some around
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:07 PM   #15
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So I think I can rule out maf, coil pack, vacuum/egr, exhaust(took it off.at.the flex.pipe.and ran her, did relieve the problem but it was still present) and a lot of.other stuff... So it leaves me with fuel pump, so gonna grab a junk yard one with the module which im gonne modify so its protected better. I can see a big guy.crushing that if they where to.shift to.the sidepossibly a knee if your like me.and keep tools and parts in the back haha
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:09 PM   #16
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325816

found the answer and fixed thanks guys!
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