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Attention 2008-2010 Focus owners

119K views 116 replies 58 participants last post by  Sky Pilott 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a problem and look what I found:

TSB
10-8-5 CLICK/POP NOISE FROM FRONT END WHILE TURNING OR GOING OVER BUMPS

Publication Date: April 27, 2010

FORD: 2008-2010 Focus


This article supersedes TSB 09-18-2 to update the Service Procedure, Service Labor Time Standards and Part List.

ISSUE:
Some 2008-2010 Focus vehicles may exhibit a click/pop type noise from the front end while turning and/or driving over bumps, or a creak/squeak noise from front when driving over bumps. The noise may be isolated to front stabilizer bar end links, front upper strut bearing area, and/or lower control arm.

ACTION:
Follow the service procedure to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Install Chassis Ear JSP97202 in the Rotunda Technician Tool Program or equivalent to identify and isolate the source of the noise.
Drive the vehicle over moderate bumps and perform left and right turns.
If a click/pop noise is coming from front stabilizer bar end link(s), proceed to Step 3.
If a click/pop noise is from upper strut bearing area, go to Step 4.
If a creak/squeak type noise is coming from a lower control arm, go to Step 5.
Front stabilizer bar end link click/pop noise.
Is vehicle built on or before 1/11/2010?
Yes - remove and install four (4) revised stabilizer bar end link nuts per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-01; torque to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m).
No - replace affected stabilizer bar end link(s) per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m).
Upper strut bearing click/pop noise.
Is vehicle built on or between 10/01/2007 and 10/31/2007?
Yes - replace upper strut bearing per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
No - proceed to Step 3b.
Is vehicle built on or before 11/30/2008?
Yes - inspect the three (3) upper strut mount nuts for signs of looseness. Torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
No - replace suspect strut per WSM, Section 204-01; torque upper nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
Lower control arm creak/squeak noise.
Replace the affected lower control arm per WSM, Section 204-01.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
9S4Z-3078-A Lower Control Arm - Right Hand
9S4Z-3079-A Lower Control Arm - Left Hand
9S4Z-18124-C Front Strut - Right Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-E Front Strut - Right Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-D Front Strut - Left Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-F Front Strut - Left Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar
8S4Z-18198-A Strut Bearing
AS4Z-5K484-AA Front Stabilizer Bar End Link
W-713760-S440 Nut - Stabilizer Bar Link


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
100805A 2008-2010 Focus: Includes Diagnosing With Chassis Ears And Road Test, Labor Operation Should Be Claimed With B, C, D, E, F Or G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr.
100805B 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Four (4) Stabilizer Bar End Link Nuts Or Stabilizer Bar End Links, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, C, D, E, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.2 Hr.
100805C 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Upper Strut Bearing Or Strut Assembly, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, E, F, And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.5 Hr.
100805D 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearings Or Strut Assemblies, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr.
100805E 2008-2010 Focus: Tighten Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearing Retainers, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.1 Hr.
100805F 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Lower Control Arm, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D And E (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.3 Hr.
100805G 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Lower Control Arms, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D, E And F (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.4 Hr.


DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
3B438 24
 
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#89 ·
I changed the front factory sway bar links at 40,000 . It happens to all focus. Its a 95.00 fix at The dealer and they will install the same crappy factory parts.[thumbd] For about the same price you can buy superior parts online and install them yourself. The Moog parts feature grease fittings, which should result in them lasting the life of the car[thumb] All you need is a torque wrench and a good jack. Good luck [cheers]http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQFordQQFocusQQMoogQQSway_Bar_LinkQQ20002009QQMOK80066.html
 
#91 ·
hmm ball joint you say [idea] think this might be my problem as well seeings how i just replaced my end links with zerk fitings but also think my sway bar bushings need some replacing as well hope this all can be done on the cheep lol gota car show in bout a month lmao
 
#94 · (Edited)
Funny enough about this, I made a tweet to Ford about having my car in for this issue multiple times, with the dealer finding nothing each time, not expecting much of anything to happen. Long story short, I'm now in contact with the regional customer service manager at Ford corporate and a dealer is looking at my car until the problem is corrected. Rental car included!

http://imageshack.us/a/img43/5809/12032392.jpg
 
#99 ·
I got mine for $545. The front LCA's are $500 for the set with the rear brackets. Dom also sell's the poly bushings for another $45 installed.

Also got the rear LCA's for $375. with poly bushings.
 
#101 ·
Ya if just going back and forth to work no. But I have a lead foot when it comes to the twisties and this setup with coilovers is like being on train tracks.
 
#103 ·
I'm not sure how to really tell other then getting them swapped out. I saw a TSB for the Focus that talked about the control arms as being one of the possible culprits. It was for me, and I didn't know until I changed them. I also have done my shocks and struts, but the noise you are talking about in my case was the control arms.
 
#104 ·
I bought a 2009 FF coupe SES in Feb.2009 I only have 12,000 miles but for a while now It feels like the front wheels are going to fall off.

I haven't been on here since the purchase but came to look around and I'm glad I did. My car definitely has this symptom...Thanks

What's the warranty 36,000 or five years on this ??
 
#108 ·
Hey I just joined this site and came to this section to see about rotors but I saw this thread. This sounds exactly like what my car does. It also creaks when I release the brake pressure. Now I am a complete no knowledge automotive student of 2 weeks. I have 2 weeks worth of knowledge basically. How much and where would I take my car to fix this? 2008 ford focus se coupe, I am not under warranty I don't think.
 
#109 ·
I just bought my car used from a dealership. I had a 30 day warrantee on it so I'm taking it back this weekend to see if this is covered and if this Bulletin will still be in effect on this car. The car has less than 43,000 miles on it so I'm not sure if the front suspension pieces were ever changed or not.
 
#110 ·
Driver

I had a lot of noise from the front right after I replaced the strut due to a leak. Sounds bad. Now that it's summer, I do not hear anymore clunking clacking noise. Now the ride feels soft. When loaded the rear wheels appear to toe in on the top of the wheel... I'm thinking a total strut & shock replacement. Any comments? I'm at 75,000 mi.
 
#111 ·
I guess I'm late to the party.
I'd been having this 'clunk' for some time now but put it on the back burner since riding my motorcycle most of the year. After noticing that one of my tires had some cupping, figured it might be a good idea to replace the front struts. Did that but still had the 'clunk' and usually just noticeable when backing out of the drive or just starting to drive first thing in the morning. Not that noticeable after I got moving.
I took the time one day to remove the driver side LCA and couldn't find anything loose. Kept riding the motorcycle til recently.
While I was considering replacing the lower control arms, decided to start cheap and replace the sway bar end links. Voila, clunk is gone. The Fomoco units still don't seem bad but they are very light weight compared to the MOOG 'problem solver' units. Seemed a bit pricey too at $33/ea. but, problem solved.
Then I saw this thread. DOH
 
#115 · (Edited)
Replaced my sway bar links and still got the clunking sound. Throwing in new shocks/lca/inner+outter tie rods today. Will inspect everything to to see what's making the sound. But for some reason I'm thinking it's the sway bar hitting against something. Maybe the bushings are worn or the bracket is loose.

Edit: Okay just finished up and went out for a test drive. It was definitely the lower control arms. The inner bushing pretty much fell off as I pulled it out. Both sides too. Clunking is gone! Can't believe I dealt with that for for so many years.
 
#116 ·
Was convinced my problem was a torque strut mount (dogbone) or engine mount, since I have a manual, and I get some shaking when taking off (clutch grabbing). But I also have a clunk when driving over bumps. Replaced the torque strut mount, still have a clunk.

Front Stabilizer end links have been replaced previously because of this thread. They were bad, but noise stayed (less noise though)

Now I'm thinking it may be control arms, strut mounts, or either stabilizer bar or rack bushings.

Will update if I find anything.
 
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