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Zetec Turbo Build: 230-250whp, then 330+whp

175K views 657 replies 57 participants last post by  starfuryt550 
#1 · (Edited)
I thought I would finally post my plans as this is getting much closer to being all put together after a long time collecting parts:

* My goals are 300-330whp once I put in the new engine I am building.
* Current goals on the stock engine are 230-250whp.

I suppose I will start with a parts list, let me know if I am missing anything:

Vehicle:
- 2002 ZX3, manual tranny, 88k on clock.


INITIAL (on stock block):
- Turbonetics T3 super 60 .43 AR turbo, ceramic exhaust coating, polished.
- Turbonetics EVO wastegate (multiple psi springs)
- Custom manifold by TurboFab
- Custom DP and WG dump by Top Speed
- SVT 2.5" trubendz exhaust conversion
- Zetec 2.5" trubendz flex pipe
- 50lb injectors
- 2000 Intake manifold, ported
- Focus Central 70mm throttle body
- 180* thermostat w/new housing
- Lakewood traction bars --> might switch to TopSpeed's new design once out
- FS lower stress bar --> Will have to come off as the dp will not clear with it on
- CFM billet aluminum tensioner
- Massive 3 piece UDP
- Gates racing timing belt and acc belts
- Focus Power piping and intercooler
- Greddy type-S BOV
- Innovate wideband AF gauge
- AEM TruBoost turbo controller gauge
- Autometer digital oil pressure gauge
- STR high flow fuel rail
- EGR blockoff plate
- CFM breather plate
- SCT flash tuner
- TopSpeed battery tray/catchcan, slim battery, new terminals
- New much better conduction 1666 strand power cables, new grounds.
- stage3 coolant tank
- stage3 power steering tank
- JayRacing aluminum coolant junction
- New silicone vacuum hoses
- New billet aluminum vacuum junction
- ARP head studs
- New silicone coolant hoses

12/25/2010
* I am switching all of the cooling system including hoses to -an hoses from 16 for the largest, 12 for mid size, and -6/-8 for smaller lines. Dominic is going to make a me a new -16an billet flange and fitting to attach to the stock thermostat housing as well as fab up an aluminum radiator w/-an fittings and side tanks.

* I am converting the entire power steering system from the retarded rubber and hard lines passing over the header to complete -6an lines with a fluidyne cooler to replace the makeshift crappy stock cooler. (Check posts on pgs 2-3+ for info on this and progress. It will soon be made as soon as the snow stops and I can go outside and take some measurements).


POST BUILT ENGINE:
- 2000 zetec block
- 9.0:1 Probe pistons
- Eagle Rods
- Stock bearings
- New svt oil pump
- new svt water pump
- Centerforce billet 9lb flywheel
- Torsen T2 LSD
- APR flywheel bolts
- ARP main bolts

* I may be missing things I have but I will try and remember...

* All of the above I have already bought and have installed some parts.



My questions are:
1) I need a clutch at some point, im sure it won't last long. I need some recommendations. I dont have a ton of money for this so an Exedy hyper-single for $1,100 isnt good lol.

2) I was going to have Terry Haynes from HMS install my LSD...he recommends getting the tower keyed, recommendations?

2.1) I was also thinking new shift forks in the tranny if i do a complete overhaul?

2.2) I wanted to lower my final drive gear to one from a duratec or zetec to a 3.41 (if i remember the num correctly) with pzev. Reason being to ease the power off the line for better traction.

3) I know my T3 super 60 is good for 325-330 if i remember correctly. What would be a good replacement after I want more power?



I'm gonna have more questions, but I will appreciate thoughts, comments, suggestions, criticisms!
 
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#449 ·
There's nothing I can do about that at the moment...I'd have to have a new charge pipe made and have another modified and buy flanges.

Take too long. I just want it running for now. Worry about that later and I can put the BOV down by the bumper then on the lower charge pipe.
 
#453 ·
I'm not a fan of the radiator support, looks dinky. I think a cleanly shaved and painted stock support would look much better. Lots of good progress though!

Matt
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#461 ·
Its not terribly hard to build an engine if you have a manual and an accurate torque wrench. It costs A LOT to have someone put it together. would almost double your price to have an engine shop assemble it.

Matt
 
#462 ·
Yeah, I'd be looking at $600-1000 to have a shop build it. Plus another $500 to have Terry Haynes do my tranny. Blah.

I have 3 toqrue wrenches, Craftsman ones. I'd invest in a digital one if I were going to build the engine myself. I am pretty sure that I could do it without a problem.

Fernando pointed out some problems.
1) The MAF is too close to the throttle body - I can shift the pipe around to add another 1-2" of distance.

2) The BOV should be as far away from the MAF for best readings. I'd need to have it moved at some point to the lower pipe by the charge pipe by the intercooler.

3) The pipe with the big curves by the MAF and shit it too curvy. Was told it would need to be remade at some point without all the curves. Blah again.

I can get it running no problem the way it is, it's just not optimal.

Sucks cuz I just had all the pipes powdercoated :-\
 
#463 ·
yea tuning will be a big pain if the maf isn't in the exact right place. you should have test fitted and got it running and tuned before all this dress up!

Matt
 
#464 ·
Seriously man its not hard like stated above. Just read the manual in the block section front to back many times. Triple check every bolt that gets tightened down. Tag and bag every bit and part. The plastigage and feeler gage is the most annoying part but when its all puit together and u turn the key and there is no knocking noise. You did it right! The only thing I didn't do myself cuz I have no machine knowledge was getting the block bored honed and crank balanced for the eagle rods and JE's.
 
#466 ·
Yes. When you take the block to the machine shop. You bring the block and crank and flywheel. And rods pistons, main and rod caps and bearings. I recommend buying replacement stock or MIC'ing your crank and buying the proper sived clevite ones.
 
#467 ·
I got OEM Motorcraft bearings. I was told they would be fine. I ordered that when I ordered a complete upper and lower gasket kit from Steve @ Tousley.

Can't wait to see how my Tilton dual plate clutch feels. Prolly hard and aggressive at shit since the springs in it currently are rated for 800 ft/lbs tq @ 75% load. lol. Miiiight hard on the hills and stop and go traffic!
 
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