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How To: Proper EGR Delete *now with 20% more How*

95K views 96 replies 29 participants last post by  cresch07 
#1 · (Edited)
Well I was looking around for info about deleting the EGR and stuff and I didn't find much in the way of do this, use that, and move this kinda of stuff. So I decided to make a quick little one myself.


Parts needed: (not all but this is what I used)

10mm socket, extension and ratchet
Big ole' pliers or equivalent to get the EGR off
EGR delete plate
EGR gasket
A cap or bolt for the EGR bung on the header or a M22x1.5mm threaded plug for the exhaust EGR outlet (NAPA Part # 704-1048 works OK)
And a tune to turn the EGR off



Remove the intake tube and such so you will have plenty of room. This involves unplugging the MAF, coil pack, differential pressure sensor (the one on the EGR tube), coil resistor (gray one on the coil bracket), you'll have to unplug all of these to clear room when you pull the tube out anyway.

Now find the EGR, here is a pic and you can see the differential pressure sensor (gray plug), coil pack resistor (gray plug also), and the EGR tube and valve right behind it.



Now clear some room and grab the big ole' pliers or wrench or what ever you can find to fit the nut on the EGR valve and remove it. Once that is done, remove the vacuum hose on top of the EGR valve and the two 10mm nuts holding the valve to the pipe that connects to the intake manifold.



Now remove the header side EGR bung bolt that connects to the header or stock cat. After that remove the two bolts holding the EGR tube. Once thats done you can remove the tube. If you unplugged everything then it's just a matter of getting it the right way to pull it out. I did have to bend mine a little to get it out. Once removed you should have all these peieces left.



I left the DPFE or what ever you call it sensor on the fire wall still. I will remove it when I get a plug for the hole left by the hose going to the intake manifold. For now I just stuck a screw in the line that came off the EGR valve for a temp fix for now. Once I get the plug for the manifold it will all come out.

I got a EGR plate off of the "bay" to plug the hole left by the EGR valve (which you can see the quality or I should say lack of since it has a freaking line through it and on the other side it has some sort of stains that I couldn't get off but weren't harmful to it, I guess I could have polished it but your really can't see it any ways. You can get these almost anywhere. I did see a place where you can get the plate and a plug/bolt for the hole left in the header or manifold. It was for a lighting but I think it would work. If I can find the link again I will add it since it would be the easiest delete "kit" that I know off. Any ways this was very easy to install and I just used a new gasket (super cheap and good insurance for no leaks), and the factory bolts.



Now to plug the hole left in the header I went to Home Depot in the plumbing section and bought this piece right here.









The threads are slightly off but it went on snug and it's not leaking. If any one has a better cheaper solution then I'm all ears, but for the $3.67 I paid for was worth it IMO. Here it is installed, it got a little marred up from the pliers I was using but that was all I had that would fit right there and work.




This was super easy for me to do. I think with all the parts the cost of this was cheap. Well cheap except for the tune lol.

Well enjoy and if anyone has questions I'll try my best to answer them.

[ffrocks]
 
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#85 ·
It didn't effect my mpg at all. I got to test mpg in 3 steps. Stock. Egr system removed. And long tube header cat delete. I'm still getting 28 to 30 mpg in town and 32 to 34 mpg on highway.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
#86 ·
So to be sure i understand you, i'll still need

EGR delete plate
EGR gasket
A cap or bolt for the EGR bung on the header or a M22x1.5mm threaded plug for the exhaust EGR outlet (NAPA Part # 704-1048 works OK)

Basically follow the first few steps, like in the first few steps in the op.
 
#87 ·
correct, I didn't bother with a EGR block off plate, I just left my EGR valve bolted on and just moved the vacuum line from it, saved some money, as long as no vacuum going to EGR Valve then it stays closed....

do everything as stated in this post, remove EGR valve, remove EGR pipe, block off EGR valve hole on IM and block hole on Exhaust where u remove the EGR pipe..... then just move the vacuum line from the top of the EGR Valve itself over to the square box that was attached to the EGR pipe by 2 rubber hoses and your done.... ill get u a pic in a few of where to hook the vacuum line from EGR Valve to on the black box....

if there's no NAPA near you, u can also go to O Reilly or Autozone and use the part number from this pic, its what I used and had no problems....



PIC OF PLUG ITSELF, I LIKE THIS PLUG, CUZ IT USES JUST A STANDARD 3/8" DRIVE RATCHET OR EXTENSION END TO INSTALL, NO SOCKET OR WRENCH NEEDED.... NO TAP OR PASTE OR THREAD LOCKER OR ANYTHING IS NEEDED ON THE THREADS, I HAND SCREWED MINE IN AND NO LEAKS AT ALL, AND I CAN PUT IT IN AND OUT AS NEEDED WITH NO TOOLS BASICALLY....




HERE IT IS INSTALLED ON MY HEADER, ITS ON THE RIGHT HEADER TUBE, ITS THE SHINEY PLUG....

 
#89 ·
pic of vacuum line moved from top of EGR Valve to the square box....





pic of which port to use.... very simple, remove vacuum line from top of EGR Valve and plug straight onto square box and done.... make sure u leave the harness plugged onto square box otherwise will not work....

ITS THE REF PORT THAT YOU NEED....

 
#90 ·
Just thought id update my experience with this.

I've had my egr deleted per "joesperformance" instructions and it worked flawlessly. I capped the bung on the exhaust manifold, left the valve where it was, and moved the vacuum lines off the valve and back to the reference port.

No check light, no studder, and mpg has been restored. Big thanks goes out to joesperformance for helping me get that straightened out.
 
#92 ·
Post #88 [thumb]

Unless you meant you?

In that case, you may want change "Big ole' pliers or equivalent" to 1-1/16.

On the zx5 the flared nut on the exhaust side of the egr tube is 1-1/16.

The bung you left in the exhaust mani (circled below) is 1".





I removed both and used the plug "joesperformance" recommended in post #87. To me it was easier and looks much cleaner.

 
#94 · (Edited)
LOL! I rep you sleepernaught!!! LOL. I'm still learning to read threads!!!

HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEH

Where muh damn flash cardZZZZZ!!! D0h!!


Edit

Just to clarify, is there a "plug" being used in the intake manifold? If so what is it please? /old man spazZ gets down on both knee (if you only knew how hard it is for me to do that!!) and begs with all his might (I know it's not the fashionable way to do things, BUT I ain't no slave to fashion) [:p]

And YES Paul I've read the whole thing this time thanks to Magus2727 and his input here and his pointing me back too it! D0h!! I R F0cTarded
 
#95 ·
Necrobump-added to Joes rep for the EGR hose routing.
I have done the whole EGR delete (blockoff plate and header plug) and had a CEL for EGR flow. Once I re-routed the DPFE hoses and cleared the CEL it has not returned. And fuel economy hasn't suffered at all. Hard to do a true comparison since I keep changing things but I am averaging over 500 km (310 miles) before the fuel light comes on.
 
#97 · (Edited)
So after a full egr delete (tubing removed, hoses plugged, block plate installed, egr disabled through Tom's tune), I suppose I could just remove these 2 completely? Looks like the DPFE Sensor and EGR Vacuum Pressure Regulator. Planning on doing a slight wire tuck, and whatever I can get rid of would help.




UPDATE: Went ahead and did it. No ill effects, went ahead and put a screw into the plug on the intake mani to plug it. Went ahead and removed the cruise control servo module while I was at it.
 
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