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From stock 2001 S2 to new 450hp+

105K views 627 replies 69 participants last post by  1turbofocus 
#1 · (Edited)
Got the car new from the dealer and 9 years later look like this.

Water ingestion bent 2nd and 3rd rods.

So I decided to built it like I always wanted to. While the engine was in the machine shop added a body kit and painted the car.





Was painted under and frames as well.



Reinforced LCA

Installed Total poly bushings kit, Eibach Sportlines springs, sways and dampers with SPC kit, new hubs and EBC SVT rotors front and back.




Will finish with brakes and susp. later.
As for the engine:
Block and crank was decked, balanced, chamfered, tanked, etc., Eagle rods, Probe pistons, Clevite bearings, FR stage 3 cams and high lift springs, FRIM, 70mm tb, O/U pulleys, high flow oil pump, Bosch alt.(220), Steeda fuel rail, Siemens 60 inj., and a bunch of other stuff, you get the idea.


SPA mani and Precision 5857


I will update soon, desperate to finish.
 
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#284 ·
So remove the head to take it to a machine shop and there is some damage in one of the cams and it damage the head as well, some material is missing. Head can be repaired but porting, polishing, calibrating, etc is going to be more money than just getting a FR head.



 
#289 ·
From what I am seeing it looks like some trash went though them , there is very little clearance on the cams and even a hair will do what your seeing , grit of sand , metal from machining

The biggest mistake I see people make when I see this and I have seen it a lot is they do head work , porting , surface etc and dont pull the oil passage plugs out and clean the head throughtly and there is 6 plugs to pull out of you cannot clean the head throughly

Tom
 
#290 ·
From what I am seeing it looks like some trash went though them , there is very little clearance on the cams and even a hair will do what your seeing , grit of sand , metal from machining

The biggest mistake I see people make when I see this and I have seen it a lot is they do head work , porting , surface etc and dont pull the oil passage plugs out and clean the head throughly and there is 6 plugs to pull out of you cannot clean the head throughly

Tom
Actually to prime the oil pump took a bit longer than I expected, it is a good possibility, the head may be saved not sure about the cams though.

Quick question, after installing a Torsen and having the 2 front tires in the air if you spin one manually (in neutral), does the other wheel turns in the opposite direction or they both move freely regardless like an open diff. Read a bunch and still not sure, it should work as an open diff until torque is applied unless preloaded (shimming)?
 
#293 ·
Been reading VW and Honda forums on the PTE 5857 and other journal bearings, Precision says not to use a restrictor and I followed the instructions but some are running .065, am I draining too much oil from the head and starving the cams (fed behind the coil pack close to the damage cam)?

Edit: should have mention I'm running a -4 oil feed and -10 return with 10w-30.
 
#294 ·
I also run a -4 oil feed with no restrictor and have been for 10 year with over 250 laps at VIR 3.2 mile track and over 400 1/4 mile passes where I do a lot of testing , for years and about 80-90 turbo kits I used the -4 oil feed and never any issues with the cams , I doubt seriously thats your issue

Only way your starving the cams is if you have issues with the oil passages to the head , from what I see from the cams you had trash go through the cam oil passages all the plugs have to come out of the head or stuff gets trapped and comes loose when you get oil flowing

Tom
 
#295 ·
Thanks again Tom, will know for sure Monday or Tuesday if the cams can be saved. As for the Torsen acting as an open diff, do you think is a shimming/preload issue?
 
#299 ·
You said you spun the tires in neutral and they told you to put the car in gear....so you need to test that.
 
#300 ·
Yes but I know Fernando's and Chris (Earls) cars both do it in neutral and mine doesn't. Guess will have to open it and see if it's broken or needs shimming/preload.
 
#301 ·
Fixing the various issues I had, took the engine and tranny out, replace rear main seal, new rack & pinion, head is getting worked on and was checking the Torsen diff. Here is the thing, while the car in neutral and raised if you spin one tire the other won't move, in some other Torsen installed focus the tire spins to the opposite side, though maybe mine was broken but is not, any ideas why? Also what are the torque specs on the 4 Allen screws in the diff?





 
#302 ·
I'm not 100% on how the Torsen operates, but perhaps the one side will spin free only up until the gears catch, then it locks in. How many rotations did you turn the wheel before giving up? Maybe you just didn't give it enough time to engage, as it were...
 
#304 ·
Hey Italo, I found this on Torsen`s web site ...

http://www.torsen.com/general/general_faq.htm

What happens when I have a wheel in the air? Top of the Page

As mentioned above, the Torsen differential is a torque multiplier. The Torsen requires some type of resistance or friction in the system to function properly. A wheel in the air provides zero torque or friction on the system and as the Torsen multiplies the available torque, zero, by its TBR, the end result is still zero. In response to this, we developed the Torsen T-2R with pre-load to combat those wheel in the air situations.
 
#305 ·
Thanks Rocco, read it and in theory mine is working as explained, but then why others lock in neutral? Did they have different Torsen's than the T2 for the MTX? Seeing it on the inside seems like there should not be any reason to lock except in gear so 1 of the satellites have torque and the other differentiates between the 2 axis. Any torque specs to close it?
 
#306 ·
Back from Torsen,

"Your test method isn’t conclusive.[:)] Rather than evaluating the differential while the transmission is in neutral, you should always perform this evaluation with the transmission in gear.[:)] This prevents the ring gear from spinning, and will force the differential to spin the opposing wheel in the opposite direction when you turn one by hand.[:)]
[:)]
Let me back up a step – the gearing of a differential (any differential: open, LSD, torque-biasing, etc) requires the average speed of the two axle shafts & wheels to be equal to the speed of the differential input (the ring gear).[:)] So, when the ring is prevented from turning, if you turn one shaft forward, the other must turn in the opposite direction.[:)] It’s basically the same as saying that the average of +1 and -1 must equal 0.[:)] So, by the same token, if opposite wheel cannot turn when you turn a wheel/axle, then either the ring gear must turn (at half the speed you turn the wheel) or you will not be able to turn the wheel at all. [:)]The geared mechanical connection forces this action.[:)]
[:)]
So, back to your test.[:)] Often, if the transmission is in neutral, there is more inertia and drag to overcome in the opposite wheel and brake assembly then there is in the transmission gearing, which isn’t connected to the clutch, so there isn’t anything to prevent it from turning.[:)] As such, the ring gear will often turn inside the gearbox instead of having the opposite wheel turn.[:)] I see this sort of thing occur all of the time.[:)] As a result, you cannot conclude that the differential is faulty until you perform this test with the transmission in gear.[:)]
[:)]
For the moment, I would speculate that there is nothing wrong with the differential, especially if you see no sign of damage or breakage within the assembly.[:)] When you reassemble the unit, torque the cap bolts to 55 lb-ft and use Locktite.[:)] Pay attention to the orientation and location of each gear to be certain that they are go back to the same places that they came from, in the same way.[:)] It is easiest to reassemble all of the internal parts on the cap, then slide the housing down over top of it.[:)] If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
[:)]
Best regards,
[:)]
Rick Barnes
JTEKT Torsen NA Inc
rbarnes@torsen.com
 
#307 ·
Mine did the same - I dind't care what it did in the air, as long as it performed when I had my foot in it, never let me down...
 
#308 ·
Getting the head back tomorrow, ordered some ARP bolts and studs and just payed for my new turbo, I was going to upgrade down the road but a deal came up and got a gt35, thanks to Bryan@TS. How do you guys route the water lines? Do not have heater and running a SVT thermostat.
 
#312 ·
Thanks guys, should have done this from the start. Inside the oil passages there was still material from the first sandblasting done, 2 or 3 of the valves where not to specs either, going to check the oil pump and as soon as I get the arp flywheel bolts is coming back together.
 
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