sutyak's Turbo Duratec build #3
History:
Build #1 (2007): Stock motor with custom Thunderbird IHI turbo
Build #1b: Upgraded IHI turbo to a hybrid
Build #2 (2012): Upgraded turbo to GT2871r. Switched to external wastegate.
Current build:
Same GT2871r (EDIT: Now a billet wheel GT3082R)
SuperTech 10.4:1 pistons
SuperTech rings
CXRacing forged H-beam rods
ARP head and main studs
Clevite main and rod bearings
Crower valve springs and retainers
Exedy Hyper Single clutch
Torsen LSD
Goal: 375whp+ and/or 115mph in the 1/4
The motor I'm building is the original out of my car. It suffered an overboost with the IHI turbo and damaged/broke a ring landing and began smoking like crazy. This happened a few years ago, but I'm just now getting around to rebuilding the motor. This is my first ground-up rebuild. With the exception of some very minor scratches (can't even feel it with a fingernail) the motor was fine and fully rebuild-able.
Since this motor had no significant damage and very low mileage I'm lucky enough to not need anything professionally machined. That being said I'm still measuring everything and comparing against the Haynes manual.
The cylinders were a bit shiny and I wanted to get that small scratch out of cylinder #2 so I used a 3-blade 220 grit hone to give it a new cross-hatch. I did as little honing as possible and stayed with the 87.5mm pistons.
Following SuperTech's formulas I gapped the top ring to .018" and the second ring I left at .023" as it came out of the box.
For now I'm sticking with the stock head and cams, but I did upgrade the springs and retainers to Crowers in case I want to spin it over 7K. Also if I want to swap out cams later the springs and retainers (the hard part) will already be done. I went with steel retainers vs. titanium after speaking with a representative at Crower. The steel are also significantly cheaper.
I'll be using a TurboSmart dual-stage boost controller, with a toggle switch for the second stage. First stage will probably be around 13-15psi, and second 20-24psi. [strongman]
My base tune is from Tom, and I tweak it as necessary using the SCT Pro Racer Package. I plan on slowly tuning up to 24psi myself if possible. Chances are good I'll have to hit a dyno rather than street tune like I have up to now.
I'm in no particular rush with this build, so I may not be updating daily like I used to. There's a good chance I'll post a few days and then be silent for a couple months. Family time and home improvement projects tend to come before the car.
So far I've assembled the short block and just finished rebuilding the head with new valve stems seals, cleaned up the old valves, and installed the Crower springs and retainers. At this point I need to think real hard whether or not I want aftermarket cams, but I'm still leaning towards no.
History:
Build #1 (2007): Stock motor with custom Thunderbird IHI turbo
Build #1b: Upgraded IHI turbo to a hybrid
Build #2 (2012): Upgraded turbo to GT2871r. Switched to external wastegate.
Current build:
Same GT2871r (EDIT: Now a billet wheel GT3082R)
SuperTech 10.4:1 pistons
SuperTech rings
CXRacing forged H-beam rods
ARP head and main studs
Clevite main and rod bearings
Crower valve springs and retainers
Exedy Hyper Single clutch
Torsen LSD
Goal: 375whp+ and/or 115mph in the 1/4
The motor I'm building is the original out of my car. It suffered an overboost with the IHI turbo and damaged/broke a ring landing and began smoking like crazy. This happened a few years ago, but I'm just now getting around to rebuilding the motor. This is my first ground-up rebuild. With the exception of some very minor scratches (can't even feel it with a fingernail) the motor was fine and fully rebuild-able.
Since this motor had no significant damage and very low mileage I'm lucky enough to not need anything professionally machined. That being said I'm still measuring everything and comparing against the Haynes manual.
The cylinders were a bit shiny and I wanted to get that small scratch out of cylinder #2 so I used a 3-blade 220 grit hone to give it a new cross-hatch. I did as little honing as possible and stayed with the 87.5mm pistons.
Following SuperTech's formulas I gapped the top ring to .018" and the second ring I left at .023" as it came out of the box.
For now I'm sticking with the stock head and cams, but I did upgrade the springs and retainers to Crowers in case I want to spin it over 7K. Also if I want to swap out cams later the springs and retainers (the hard part) will already be done. I went with steel retainers vs. titanium after speaking with a representative at Crower. The steel are also significantly cheaper.
I'll be using a TurboSmart dual-stage boost controller, with a toggle switch for the second stage. First stage will probably be around 13-15psi, and second 20-24psi. [strongman]
My base tune is from Tom, and I tweak it as necessary using the SCT Pro Racer Package. I plan on slowly tuning up to 24psi myself if possible. Chances are good I'll have to hit a dyno rather than street tune like I have up to now.
I'm in no particular rush with this build, so I may not be updating daily like I used to. There's a good chance I'll post a few days and then be silent for a couple months. Family time and home improvement projects tend to come before the car.
So far I've assembled the short block and just finished rebuilding the head with new valve stems seals, cleaned up the old valves, and installed the Crower springs and retainers. At this point I need to think real hard whether or not I want aftermarket cams, but I'm still leaning towards no.