Hiii!!!
Does anyone know where is the best place to buy a ITB for my ford focus??
I really want one, but I've seen some but they are really kinda expensive. Please help. [wrenchin]
The US software, ECU does have a section for speed density but not everything is there for it to work properly , the EURO ECU are properly set up for MAP and that ECU in your car with ITB shouldnt be an issue to tune
You would have to check the pin out to make sure all other wiring is the same and wire in a MAP sensor
Hell yeah !! You just made my day [headbang] It should be easier tahn wiring a complete stand-alone ecu, easier to tune and it retain the stock obd2 port and codes to pass inspections should Quebec impose a new law ( currentkly we have no emission test )
Don't forget that after 20-30% throttle on an ITB'd engine a MAP sensor is pretty much completely useless. So your ECU also has to be able to cross over from a speed density to a TPS & RPM based tuning algorithm. AKA Alpha-N
Most stand alone engine management systems have the appropriate algorithms to switch over very easily. The price difference for a stand alone like Motech, Haltec AEM or MegaSquirt is comparable. You will have to take your car to a tuner. IMO that is really the only way to get everything out of your engine any way.
ahhh [facepalm] It was too good to be true ! Do you know why the MAP is useless ? not enough vacuum ?
Also , I had never tuned a car by myself , but I've learn to program on a couple of different engineering programs (matlab, labview/simulink,cxprogrammer... ) which are based on matrices and logical/switches operations. Is what is the difference between the way ECU are programmed and the kind of programs I'm working with at school ?
Yes, it's due to the lack or instability of the vacuum signal. However, the use of a vacuum box can help to stabilize the vacuum signal somewhat. Even that has it's draw backs. As soon as those throttles open up there is a lot of room that requires attention that can only be calculated with TPS RPM and VSS vehicle speed.
The stock EURO MAP based ECU will be more then enough to handle the ITB
You dont have to take your car to a dyno to get a proper tune or to get everything out of your engine , I never saw the EURO MAP based Foci in the UK and they were highly modded after tuning they went to the dyno where the first tuner tried to tune them and he was impressed by how much better it ran and how much more power it made and said after checking timing and fuel he wouldnt touch a thing , just because you go to a dyno for a tune doesnt mean your going to get a proper tune and all your engine can do safely
You need a good tuner that knows what he is doing , then go to a dyno after your tune is done to confirm
I have done a good bit of ITB tuning and building in the Caterhams / Birkins and dont feel that that big of a deal to tune at all
What ever works best for you is what people need to do , I have tunes with about 20 diff software over the years and if there is proper tuning for the stock ECU thats the way to go
Well the project will be on the back-burner till I have enough time to start thinkering with a stand-alone... Until then , I'll try to remove as much weight as possible from the car [strongman]( It's a lot heavier than my former zx3 [8] )
I will be trying this out in the next few weeks just to see how it works. BMW & Toyota both have individual throttle induction systems in use on production cars. The BMW runs a Bosch MAF sensor in conjunction with an Alpha-N algorithm. So I would assume that it is possible. You would still need a healthy tune.
I have read that due to the more prevalent reversion pulses caused by multiple throttle openings. They can mess with the MAF readings if the sensor isn't placed properly in the intake tract.
Got my ITB setup installed and idling. First try was a bit screwed up as I had the TPS sensor wires crossed. So the ECU was seeing 80% throttle at idle when they were actually closed. Wouldn't start without giving it a shot with the gas pedal. And it fired up with a TPS CEL and reverted to MAF only and wouldn't idle without giving the throttle a few snaps every now and then.
After switching the wires the GSXR TPS is @ 19.2% and will not go further than 70% based on the Ford voltage scalar. Therefore a custom calibration will be necessary in order for them to run properly.
Here are a couple shoots of the live data on my scan tool.... No CEL... however it will come on for the DPFE and EGR as they have both been removed. For those who say that the stock ECU will not idle over 700-850RPM... here it is @ 1200 RPM. The IAC is hooked up and running. In case anyone is wondering, the IAC valve is pretty much completely closed at idle @ these RPMs. []
As you can see it is running a bit on the warm side and the ECU is really attacking the fuel trims....
19.2% throttle and a really good IAT and flow reading from the MAF. It's quite obvious that the 4 throttles suck air much faster than a single throttle body. The 65mm throttle body @ 1000RPM was reading @ 2.8 g/s.
The placement of the velocity stack out of the engine bay probably helped a bit with the temps. The velocity stack actually fits up there with the hood closed. However I will be changing the CAI tube to tuck it back in behind the battery with an air box and hood vent.
Due to a coolant leak in the steel oil cooler and water bypass lines. I will not be taking this out on the road for a day or two. I will also try and see what I can do to keep the ECU from trimming so much fuel on the ST & LTFT.
Little video of the second start up after the TPS wires were fixed.
Here are a couple shoots of the live data on my scan tool.... No CEL... however it will come on for the DPFE and EGR as they have both been removed. For those who say that the stock ECU will not idle over 700-850RPM... here it is @ 1200 RPM. The IAC is hooked up and running. In case anyone is wondering, the IAC valve is pretty much completely closed at idle @ these RPMs. []
I don't believe anyone ever said the stock ECU won't idle over 700-850rpm. In fact I know no one ever has.
Personally I idle at ~900rpm because I have to, vacuum fluctuates too much if I go lower.
To add to that, the IAC can control up to near 3,000rpm idle if desired.
Speaking of, if the IAC is not open at idle, your throttle stop is set wrong or you have a vacuum leak.
As you can see it is running a bit on the warm side and the ECU is really attacking the fuel trims....
19.2% throttle and a really good IAT and flow reading from the MAF. It's quite obvious that the 4 throttles suck air much faster than a single throttle body. The 65mm throttle body @ 1000RPM was reading @ 2.8 g/s.
To say that they suck more is a conundrum.
If they actually did, you'd see it reflected by load and spark. Calculated load is based off both and to increase one will reflect on the other.
Simply reading air flow #'s will get you nowhere and without inclusive data is meaningless. It also does not reflect any aspect of air moving faster.
There is that guy from South America (Argentina IIRC) and his car is newer and MAP based. It's odd for most newer Fords to be that way in the USA.
But if you would swap to that style ECU then you wouldn't need a plenum around the ITB's. But I'm not sure if Tom can tune it for you. Offer help maybe.
I see the guy pop in from time to time on the tuning site I'm on. I can ask him to stop in here if you want.
Do you have any flow numbers for higher RPM yet? 7000rpm would be nice as well as say 4500.
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