My 2000 zetec ATX wagon started having idle troubles, kept dying and erratic behavior down around idle. No CEL. New IAC stopped it for a little bit then it came back.
Bought a 2000 manual TPS since everyone states new ATX one not available. Bought a washer and two sheet metal screws too at $.69 and 2X $.19. ground a flat on the washer to clear the bumpout on the TPS and then drilled two screw holes in the outside edge of washer to match mounting holes on TB. Put the washer on top of the TPS flat and screwed them both down to TB using the longer screws after grinding off the screw hole bosses on the TPS. The bosses prevent the TPS from swinging in a circle. Now the TPS is 360 degree adjustable under the washer, I swung it to get .90 volts at idle stop and 4.62 volts at wide open throttle using a voltmeter and the center white wire on TPS connector. Tighten the screws down there, the washer holds the TPS firmly in place. Be cool, over tightening I'm sure could crush the TPS, it only has to be tight enough so that sensor will not budge trying to move it by hand. My washer was 1/8" thick, it did not warp at tightening. No additional connector needed either, the connection is identical.
Pull battery cable off, back on, relearn idle for 10 minutes and now the idle problem is gone. The trans shifts perfectly including kickdowns at proper speeds, and engine power is fine.
Comparing the MTX TPS and the ATX one shows them as having the same total range swing, it's just that one starts and ends up in a slightly different place from the other, thus affecting the whole range, if you make the one part have the same starting point as the other then no difference at all.
As with other things, no way was I buying a new TB, mine was in excellent shape but for the TPS. Easiest $100+ I ever made.
All of you who were doing this incorrectly simply indexed the manual TPS in wrong as it doesn't match the ATX mounting point, the index is maybe 5-10 degrees off, which gets you into the off idle point of the TPS and screws up the rest of the range.
Bought a 2000 manual TPS since everyone states new ATX one not available. Bought a washer and two sheet metal screws too at $.69 and 2X $.19. ground a flat on the washer to clear the bumpout on the TPS and then drilled two screw holes in the outside edge of washer to match mounting holes on TB. Put the washer on top of the TPS flat and screwed them both down to TB using the longer screws after grinding off the screw hole bosses on the TPS. The bosses prevent the TPS from swinging in a circle. Now the TPS is 360 degree adjustable under the washer, I swung it to get .90 volts at idle stop and 4.62 volts at wide open throttle using a voltmeter and the center white wire on TPS connector. Tighten the screws down there, the washer holds the TPS firmly in place. Be cool, over tightening I'm sure could crush the TPS, it only has to be tight enough so that sensor will not budge trying to move it by hand. My washer was 1/8" thick, it did not warp at tightening. No additional connector needed either, the connection is identical.
Pull battery cable off, back on, relearn idle for 10 minutes and now the idle problem is gone. The trans shifts perfectly including kickdowns at proper speeds, and engine power is fine.
Comparing the MTX TPS and the ATX one shows them as having the same total range swing, it's just that one starts and ends up in a slightly different place from the other, thus affecting the whole range, if you make the one part have the same starting point as the other then no difference at all.
As with other things, no way was I buying a new TB, mine was in excellent shape but for the TPS. Easiest $100+ I ever made.
All of you who were doing this incorrectly simply indexed the manual TPS in wrong as it doesn't match the ATX mounting point, the index is maybe 5-10 degrees off, which gets you into the off idle point of the TPS and screws up the rest of the range.