Just purchased the Crower stage 1 cams for my duri and just wondering if anyone else on here are running the same cams? If so what was the noticable increases, pro's/con's?[loveff]
Im going to take a guess here, they will shift your powerband some, and you wont gain any more then 10hp unless you have supporting mods like full exhaust and intake mods, make it breathe!
I figured there would be a little bit of gain in there but wasnt really sure how much as far as top, mid and bottom range goes. I was looking into the d23 head swap but it seems like more of a hassel than I am willing to go through right now. Just want to throw some bolt ons up so I can get more from my nitrous
I am interested in thou, too. I was looking at Cossie's fast road set & OBX's stage 1's & Crower's stage 1's. Seems like OBX's is a copy of Cossie's & is a single pattern, where Crower is a split pattern cam that favor's the intake side= more lift & duration & is on a 114 degree lobe center, where I would say that OBX's & Cosworth's are on a 112, but no info, that I found. On a 23 I believe 8-10HP & 8-12 lbs of grunt, w/a header/2.5 exhaust/ SRI or CAI. & a tune. Pro's are more DD driveably & torque at the lower RPM & you don't have to deal w/ spring's. Con's are there is more on the table w/ a stage 2= now your on a 112 LS w/ more lift= in.389''/ex.373'' & more duration @ .050=in. 228 degree's & ex. 220 degree's= shocker[lockdance]more grunt & HP @ a higher RPM & more rev's too, if you don't blow the bottom end. On a 20 you will need a 23 head for sure to see any gain's vs no 23 head, that I believe you'd be going backward's. So w/ that said, you'd see some gain's, I would try to figure out what it take's to do a 23 head, or just upgrade to a 23 all together. Let us know how it run's HUH!
Once everything is finished in the spring I will post some dyno numbers. Kind of skeptical on what to think right now. I know it will be really fun to drive and a 100HP n2o shot at the track will be pushing some fun numbers for an every day driver. Just really curious to see how it will run and what I will be looking at HP wise when everything is said and done. Should be good im hoping!!!
Once everything is finished in the spring I will post some dyno numbers. Kind of skeptical on what to think right now. I know it will be really fun to drive and a 100HP n2o shot at the track will be pushing some fun numbers for an every day driver. Just really curious to see how it will run and what I will be looking at HP wise when everything is said and done. Should be good im hoping!!!
Be careful with that. I have the intake manifold and love it, if your going to be spraying a healthy amount on your car you don't want to risk blowing apart the plastic manifold.
Also, from all the posts I am reading on all of the IM forums, what good does the IM do unless your going the forced induction route? From what everyone else is saying its not worth it to change the IM
When I was running the 75Hp shot before on the stock IM, I only had the single pirhana nozzle and it was fine. Made me kind of hesitant at times. Going direct port this time around. Putting to much money into the car to end up puddling and blowing everything to pieces.
I have a buddy that works for Summit racing and he gets that nice employee discount ;-) Getting the crowers in the morning. Going to pick up some micrometers in the AM and do some messuring to compare the stock to the Crowers. Wont have everything in and running until spring but I will re-post on here when all is said and done. Deff look like the best bang for the buck. At least for what I paid. Also just got my OBX headers. Compared to everything else I have seen out there, they look like they will do the job and only cost half the price of other brands.
Got my set for $188. So for me they were the best price lol. Trying to stick with all stage 1 components as i dont want to spend all that extra money to make it a higher stage motor. Just want somethin fun to drive
Sounds like a similar path to what I want to do with my D20. Let us know with the headers and the stage 1s what it does. I also don't think you need the IM until you get to a more serious stage of motor or FI. Nice choices.
Yeah, I did a search on here about the aftermarket IM's and it sounds like the only thing those would be good for are forced induction. I like the sound of my setup as well. Think I am gonna get more out of it than inticipated. We shall see. I will deff post some dyno results once it is completed. Still working on ordering the pistons rods and headgaskets. Once all that is done I will start putin her back together.
Without the IM do you think I would be able to upgrade to a 3" MAF intake tube rather than the small FSwerks CAI tube? Once everything is complete I will be doing the tune so I am trying to squeeze as much out of everything that I can without getting the cossie IM. Who sells an upgraded MAF for the duri?
Im not sure i think it might be something custom. Ive read about a few guys doing it and thought later ide check into it. Maybe an SRI steeda like
My plan was to modify the FSWerks CAI maybe buying a second one and cut the sections off where it tapers down and tap into it there and just use hose clamps and stuff to connect it all back up.
What could I expect using stage 1's on my 23 w/ fwerk's tune/header/borla/ cfm's UDP's/ BSD plug & windage tray? & I was thinking 'bout the Escape 23 i.m.= delete's the IMRC, but still uses the IMTV.
did the stage 1 come with that pressed ring on the end for the cam position sensor.. if so whats the part number only thing left stock in me build is the cams....
i got the 2.3 head as well 2.0 built bottom end but if u run the 2.0 ecu u need the cam position sensor from what im told. thats why i cant run the 2.3 cams in my build. rweally wanted to squeze out even bit out of this build. but guess it will give me somethig later to add into the car. i got all the data logging sofeware and an unlocked tuner and the tuning software from a shop i worked with. might be usefully. just want my 450 with nos goal....
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