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oil pressure gauge help??

3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  amc49 
#1 ·
where can i conect an oil pressure gauge to my 2.0 zetec with out putting it in the hole for the oil pressure sending unit??
 
#2 ·
the most common place is under/next to the coil pack. their is a torque bit plug that I believe is the right thread pitch and type that is needed. This is also a port that is often used for oil feed lines for a turbo.
 
#6 ·
Here is what I decided on:





I used a steel adapter fitting which, in hindsight, was a mistake. Aluminum head, aluminum fitting - why use a steel adapter and introduce problems with dissimilar metals? Just dumb on my behalf. So I rummaged through my fittings collection to find an aluminum one.



As you can see I had to grind a little off the top of the t-stat housing.

This is for a mechanical gauge which is what you want, IMO.
 
#7 ·
What right angle fitting did you use?

If you go with a mechanical gauge then you want to make sure you use an isolator between the oil feed line and the gauge. Many tracks / events prohibit mechanical gauges that are routed into the cabin that have any liquids.

Using some line to locate the sending unit is a good idea I think I will do that on my build.
 
#8 ·
1/8" NPT to AN3. Most tracks only prohibit fuel being plumbed inside the car. I am running Kevlar lined brake hose. Good to 2000psi+ and 500°+. If it fails while being used to feed an oil pressure gauge, I've got bigger problems than the gauge.

I don't trust electrical gauges. They are too slow to respond in my experience and since most of the affordable ones are 90° sweep, they don't give accurate information. A gauge that isn't timely or accurate qualifies as a fancy looking idiot light in my book.
 
#9 ·
^^ usually its not the line, I thought it was the gauge that they are worried about. The gauge could fail and cause hot motor oil from spraying,leaking into the cabin.

I was looking at getting mechanical because they are cheaper and provide better accuracy and generally faster response. But was informed by some local people that the auto cross scene where I live don't allow for mechanical gauges with out the isolator / diaphragm. But the isolator drives up the cost and makes it the same price as a full sweep electric.
 
#10 ·
If your autocross club runs via the SCCA rulebook, those people are wrong. The will not allow a mechanical fuel pressure gauge without an isolator but oil is fine. You can read the GCR and Solo rules online to confirm.
 
#12 ·
Going Mechanical then! thanks! The trick is to find a single series of gauges that have both the full sweep electrics that I need/want and the Mechanical. I am odd like that...

I used the intake port onmy head and exhaust port for oil feed line. I used 1\8" npt fitting with a ferrell nut straight to gauge
Would their be any significant temp difference between the two ports, that it would be better to use the intake port side as the oil feed? Guessing the oil is generally all the same temp so would not mater.
 
#16 ·
Does it tighten perfectly to that angle? or did you use a good PTFE thread sealer / locker and kept it just a hair loose or did you over-tighten it? That looks like a little to perfect of a place to stop.
 
#18 ·
I like that... "NPT is an abomination".

thanks!
 
#19 ·
no it does not matter wich port you use. it was easier for me to run the feed line from the exhaust side because the thermostat was easy to take a dremmel and shave down to make fit easier. and same with the coil pack. I cut one leg off to allot space for the npt fitting
 
#21 ·
That'll work, I always at least notch out to edge the lower bracket screw holes to allow hand threading bolts in further, the access there sucks. Somebody wanted to make sure that even if the wheels fell off, that coil was staying brother.
 
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