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Old 04-28-2013, 12:05 AM   #11
amc49
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And the synchro teeth can look great while the brake cone is dead, many don't know to check for that.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:28 AM   #12
brady2005
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Originally Posted by 1turbofocus View Post
I said brakes because I didnt know you had a full understand of how it all worked , yes the baulker rings
"In a synchromesh gearbox, to correctly match the speed of the gear to that of the shaft as the gear is engaged, a collar initially applies a force to a cone-shaped brass clutch attached to the gear, which brings the speeds to match prior to the collar locking into place. The collar is prevented from bridging the locking rings when the speeds are mismatched by synchro rings (also called blocker rings or baulk rings). The synchro rings have a sloping engagement so as long as they drag rotationally, they hold the dog clutch out of engagement. The brass clutch ring gradually causes parts to spin at the same speed. When they do spin the same speed, there is no more force on the sloping surfaces of the synchro rings, and the dog clutch is allowed to fall in to engagement. In a modern gearbox"

If this is a fresh rebuild , who built it ? where Focus parts uses or some other concoction ? like from a Contour or other MTX style trans , I have seen this before when "better syncro" were used

Tom
I really really dont think its the collars/syncros/forks etc. Its the EXACT same for each gear, its the original transmission 100, 000kms as far as I know never been rebuilt.. but when I took the shift tower out it looked pretty new, I doubt it was the original. So did the bolt shear off and damage something which lead to a rebuild previous to me buying it? I dont know.. all I know is its bad when its cold. Its alot better when warm, almost perfect, but sometimes it sticky, and all the shifts are somewhat notchy( a minor click in the throw of any gear) , if I shift fast (or at least quicker) or at high rpm, its better. But still there, the notchyness isnt always there when warm either, sometimes it shifts perfect, sometimes it engages 1st perfect, but more than not, its a little notchy when warm shifting through any gears and selecting any gear at a stop is kinda difficult but not always.
It never grinds, although it HAS HAPPENED ONLY once or twice, and thats when it comes out of gear, if i pull it out REALLY slow when its sticky, it has a light scratchy noise. But hasnt done that it a long time and again only did it twice.The other thing I noticed, trying to put it in reverse it makes a metal clank noise, if it wont go into the gate and I keep trying it clanks and fades away with each try after three times it goes in. When I try and get into 1st in the morning it wont go, try second and it goes in, at a stop i can try 4th it wont go, then I try first again, it goes in etc. First try from neutral to any gear it doesnt go, second try it goes in. Warm most of the time it just goes in, but sometimes it doesnt the first try. This is what happened with the car. Bought it from a ford dealer, took it back the next day because I couldnt get into gear in the morning. They replaced, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, slave/TOB, from what I can remember it was fine for a few days then resurfaced. Took it back and they did the adjustments to the shift cables, it was the same, then they did the master cylinder and its the same.. then the service manager told me what I am experiencing is completley normal for the mtx ( they have thown too many parts in it and cant figure it out, I think that was there way of saying there done) its a confusing one.. ive taken it to a transmissiin shop amd they said it felt fine ( it was warm) I feel notchyness when its warm so im surprised he couldnt feel it on the test drive. Are these transmission genearlly notchy? Other standards ive driven just click into gear, this one clicks and kinda skips , im going to just try a different fluid.. tom what would you recommend? I saw you said mobile 1? Synthetic? 5/30? Do you think I should try the desiel? Or a synthetic ATF?
Really appreciate your guys help with this! Thank you.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:30 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
And the synchro teeth can look great while the brake cone is dead, many don't know to check for that.
Yea ive heard that, but you need the trans out and the gear sets out so you can stick a feeler guage in them and see if the gaps are within the tolerance.. again I dont think its syncros etc. Its too simular between each gear. But thanks for the info.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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So a little bit of an update. I have adjusted the cables myself, and bled the entire clutch hydraulic system again and replaced with fresh fluid (old stuff looked kinda pulpy, i also found it very hard to bleed because when i gravity bled it i was like dang! Thats alot of air... but then I realized it was being sucked through the threads on the bleed nipple, out the nipple and into the tube). Its better than it was befor, mornings its still tuff but, the constant fight at lights doesnt last as near as long. Once its warmed up its also alot better, it shifts fine more than not not now, but still notchy and can hapoen in any gear. The only thing is its gotten ALOT warmer around here. So im sure that has something to do with it... other than that its still the same. I still dont think its anything like syncros or blockers, im wondering if it could be something to do with the tower besides the roll pin as I already looked at that and it seemed ok, it isnt flush with the hole but even on both sides. Im wonfering if its catching 2 of the shift fork selectors at once. I can take the cables off and swing the couter weight and feel the notchyness to it as it engages gear, but not as bad when in the car. Its also travelling down the cable linkage so it could magnify it. When it is notchy it doesnt feel internal either.. its occasionally sticky coming out of gear( like it you park your automatic car downwards on a hill without putting the ebrake on, then try and shift to "R" or "D" its livable.. its more annoying than anything..
Over all it is better, no struggle getting into 1st ince warm other than a slight resistance periodically but thats prob normal. So now, its just hard to select gear if I let the clutch out when cold, some notchy shifts for a few kms, once warm its only notchy every once in a while. So over all .. better.

I do have a question though.. is raising the front end of a FWD car, and putting it in gear with the clutch in a for sure way to see if its dragging? If the tires arent spinning with clutch down in gear, does that mean 100% its not dragging? Ive never really heard this, a friend said if the tires arent spinning the clutch for sure is not dragging.

I dint think its clutch related since all the hyrdaulics are new, and clutch/components and it was the same befor. So I am starting to think it is internal.. I might try swapping fluids still in the box, just waiting for a time at work where if I need to switch it back I can, too busy latley. .
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