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The TICK build thread

56K views 253 replies 40 participants last post by  UnFocusedST 
#1 · (Edited)
I am starting my build thread approximately 1 year from the date of the incident. My car is a 2001 ZX3, and has been so named by family and friends as the "TICK".

1 year ago I went through my normal process of making sure my car would pass Utah safety and emissions. Part of this was to get the EGR working as it had been fine due to a Tune but visual inspections have increased in effectiveness and was forced to confront it last year. After hooking up the EGR some pipes were hot now where were not previously causing the 0 AWG wire ran for the starter and the alternator (routed through the intake runners and coincidentally had been resting against the metal tube between the EGR and the intake manifold). With the EGR hooked up and not realizing this about halfway to work the car lost power and started to have smoke come out from under the hood.

Pulled over and tried starting it again first thing and it would start but then instantly die unless the throttle was pushed in. Still smoking now more I opened the hood to see flames... was able to blow them out and disconnect power but damage had been done. My insurance has road side assistance but requires it to go to a dealer, the dealer was not sure what might have gone wrong (even after me telling them exactly what happened and what needed fixed).

After realizing that the dealership was not the way to go I was able to get it towed home. after doing compression tests it was evident that I may have had also a head gasket that had gone. Either way I found that this was a perfect time to do the rebuild that I have always wanted.

What is Currently Done:
Koni Sport suspension
SVT Front Brakes
SVT Exhaust Header (wrapped w/ SVT CAT & Flex)
Magnaflow 2.5" SS CAT Back (no resonator)
Focus-Sport Cool-Flo Intake (no longer ITG filter)
65mm Focus Cental TB
Focus-Sport Tune
Steada Short through shifter
F2 turn key transmission with 4.10 gear final drive
Focus Sport Aluminum Flywheel
Pro Luk Gold Clutch
VF engineering Rear "Dog bone" mount
Eibach sway bars (front and rear)
Focus Sport strut tower braces (front and rear)
MOOG tie rod ends (from a 2007) and sway bar end links

What I am doing now:
Eagle H-Beam Rods
JE 85.5mm 9.0:1 pistons
Clevite 77 P series Rod bearings
Sealed Power Main bearings
ARP Main and head studs
C-F-M High RPM Oil Pump
Adjustable Cam Gears
SVT high flow CAT from C-F-M (Street version) & larger flex pipe

What I will be doing:
After I get the car up and running with the built bottom end the top end will be addressed
Ford Racing head
Stage 2 CAMS
3" Trubends cat back exhaust
Quaife Limited Slip Diff
Stage 3 or 4 clutch

What I will do once I get $$ for Turbo install:
Get what ever is needed for a goal of 300-325 HP

All Pictures taken will be uploaded to Photobucket ( http://s603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/Magus2727/Focus Rebuild/?start=all ) and select pictures will be direct linked to this build thread.


So to start this build out came the motor and the transmission.





After removing everything and taking as many pictures as I could so I could remember where everything was I realized even though I had graduated and working full time now, I did not have the increase in extra cash I was expecting for for most of 2011 I was cleaning the bolts one by one with a Dremmal and a SS wire wheel. Tax returns allowed the work to begin.



I was able to get JE Pistons and Eagle H-Beam rods from C-F-M and also then get the engine work done, high speed balance of the crank (along with a polish).



I have 85.5mm pistons for a 9.0:1 compression, figured that this was going to be the only time i was going to build this up so was going to do it right and go big or go home. [:)]





I am planing on going FI with this for a Turbo, but at the moment as its getting built as funds come in the goal is to get it up and running built for use of a turbo and then add the turbo approx 1 year down the road.

Over Memorial day weekend I was able to install ARP Mains



and get the crank shaft installed



i have approx 0.002" of radial clearance between the bearings (used Sealed Power bearings, Clevite no longer makes the P series).

I also did not like the look of the motor having the bad peeling black paint (is it paint?) so after cleaning the block further and in more detail I got the POR-15 engine enamel paint kit for a Ford Corporate Blue color. I also got that painted over Memorial Day weekend.





The pistons will be installed after triple checking the end gap again and clean everything up... I have a half jug of royal purple 5W-20 which I will be using to lube the pistons during install.




UPDATE 6/1/2012:

Pistons have been installed, Thats the last of the new parts I have. Next will be getting the bottom end put back together after I get the C-F-M oil pump once it comes back into stock...


Ring End Gaps:

Piston #1 -- Piston #2 -- Piston #3 -- Piston #4​
Top Comp Ring ------ 0.016" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.016"
Bottom Comp Ring --- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.017" ---- 0.018"
Top Oil Ring --------- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.020"
Bottom Oil Ring ------ 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020"









 
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#190 ·
Well I went to Focus Fest and saw some eye candy I could not resist.

Massive is going to have a large presence on my rear end...

 
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#191 ·
Well finally getting around to getting the Massive parts installed.



Underside is a bit rusted so needed to get the car up in the air and see how bad things are.

After taking the whole rear cross member off the passenger side trailing arm had total bushing failure. the bushing just fell out. Also the arm was rubbing on the body and removed metal on the outer sleeve.



Because of the rust and everything I got a new rear cross member. Picked this one up from the junk yard from a 2010 Foci.



Due to the outer sleeves being as bad as they were I decided to replace them. Hard thing is you can just get an outer sleeve. So, got some MOOG bushings from the part store and burned them out. Guess if the sleeve fails they are still life time warranty? Pressed in the new outer sleeve. I am getting my moneys worth out of the press I bought.



Going to send the trailing arms and the rear cross member over to get powered coated to blast away the junk, and get rid of the rust and such. Going to match the front cross member (the same color of blue as the Tick)
 
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#192 ·
Well got parts back from powder coat and it looks beautiful.





Getting 400 lbs/in rate springs from PAC Racing. Should be getting them in about 3 weeks. Gives me some time to get my spring isolators worked out. My dreamel died so may take a bit longer to trim the isolators.
 
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#193 ·
Spring isolators for the top cross member pockets have been customized and fit the new springs.



Moved the whole thing inside so the poly layer I put on the control arms will finish curing.
 
#194 ·
Sometimes it's just feels unfair that some parts have to sit out in the cold.



Need to get the rear hubs on order and have to figure out what to do with the rear EVAP canister. I want to get rid of it, but not sure the best way to route the lines that are then left.
 
#196 ·
Thanks! on your track cars what do you do with the EVAP canister in the back? Do you keep it? If you dont keep it, what and how do you route the vent tubes and such that are left?
 
#198 ·
Was this question suppose to be on my other thread for the EVAP? :)


Not sure he described exactly how any one has done it just the theory of what needs to be done and how tanks vent. I think by basically connecting the two hoses together I have kept the venting locations and paths and pick offs at the same place. I have just removed a box of carbon. So I think I just need to connect the two hoses that I removed from the EVAP canister together and then have Tom disable the EVAP in the ECU. I will also modify the gas cap to be a venting gas cap.

Karl also has recommended a good filter that he uses and may modify the end of the plastic tube that runs to the gas cap end and put that on instead of what is a unknown black misery box that's on the fuel door housing.
 
#199 ·
Well it has been a bit and have quite a bit done since the last update.

I got new rear hubs. One of the things before getting the Tick in the garage was the passenger side rear wheel bearing was shot. Got a new set from Steve at TASCAparts.com


Wheel studs are not quite long enough ;-) so got the ARP ones like the front and put a bull nose on them also.


Much better looking


With the hubs I was able to get everything installed on the car.


I think I can go with a 2" shorter spring (PAC Racing makes a 6" spring in a 450lb rate. I will see how these 8" 400 Lb rate springs work with the shocks first.


Bleed the rear brakes got it done and thought I was going to have to buy a new set of H&R Race springs as a whole set. I was able to get some from a great person on the Facebook group as he saw my posts and lamentations on having to buy a whole set for just the front two springs.

Took the front apart once I was able to get the back on the ground.

Front MOOG swaybar links are coming off and will be replaced with Massive Speedsystems adjustable fronts.


Struts off and disassembled. They dont look the best so took to cleaning them up.


This is not an endorsement for Purple... although their mattresses are amazing.


Ready for paint, Got etching primer and the color that Koni says matches the closest to their color.


Leaving your car in primer is all the rage right? Should I leave these in primer?


Nope.


Also cleaned up the hats for the springs. This is the before paint.


Also had to clean up the camber plates. The LCR Race camber plates are still good. Took them apart cleaned them up, wire wheeled and checked the heim joint. All appears to be good with no play and smooth motion. I have almost 95k miles on these and are still great! Sad they closed up shop.


Comparing the Koni Blue sprinks (that come with the Yellow Sport kit) to the new H&R Race springs. The H&R measure in about 1" shorter than the Koni's.


Everything is now curing and will be Monday the 21st before things get assembled.



Also as a hope of things to come. Went to the junk yard because a SVT was reported there. First time a SVT was in a junkyard within 300 miles of me since I have been trying to keep track. Everything was picked over real good except a motor and some covers. Motor had a broken timing belt and the intake valves are shot. But hope to use this block and head as the rebuild for my old motor that I built previous. Also got an intake manifold which I can use the adapter to and have as a part of a different intake manifold for my boost build or as a spare for my SVT.







All I need to do is finish the venting of the fuel tank which I know now what and how I am going to do it. Parts are in the mail. Then I need to get a trailer, put the car on a trailer and get this thing aligned. Its going to be a task that will likely cost some $$ so might be done in March. But hope to get the car out on the track a few times this year now that I got the hub failures fixed. Work on my HPDE3 and HPDE4.

Also looking at Race seats and steering wheels. But can only do so much at a time. Now though with Auto-X at FocusFest 2019 which car do I bring, the Tick or the SVT (Rocket)...

I also need to figure out the lug nuts. The old crappy aluminum open ended ones that the PO back 15 years ago had are not ones I trust. With the high end ARP wheel studs, I need something to match.
 
#202 ·
Stickers for the final touch:


Struts assembled and ready to be installed. LCR Race camber plates and H&R Race springs on the repainted Koni Yellow Struts.



Front level of the car looks good!




Should be nice and tight when I get the sticky rubber on the car the 225/45R17 will fit nicely.

I need to get the back fixed though. I have reached out to PAC Racing to see if I can exchange the springs. the 8" x 3" 400 Lb springs are a bit to tall. So seeing what there is for the 6" spring. They have a 350 Lb and a 450 Lb spring in the 6" length. Thinking of going the 450 spring. That was the end target spring rate and from what I have read is a good rate for track use with the Koni Yellow Shocks and a large rear sway bar.

Have more than 2" of gap on the rear with the 400 Lb and 8" spring.
 
#203 ·
Just keep in mind that the stiffer you make the rear, the more you will experience oversteer.

I haven't read your entire thread recently so if you find the car is too loose for the track you can always go bigger front swaybar or reduce the rear bar again.
 
#204 ·
Thanks. So far I have not sprung for the larger Steeda Competition rear swaybar. I have the Eibach front sway bar, not sure there is a larger than 22mm front sway bar. I was still suffering from understeer instead of over steer last time but have made some significant changes since then.
 
#206 ·
Hope so. All this effort has been so I can take the car to the track more. After getting more seat time and go through tires and get more agressive tires as I go through them to start working on Aero.
 
#208 ·
Right now I have 225/45R17 BFG Rival's on SPA ASSETTO wheels.

Once those go out will go to a 140-100 UTQG (have not determined tire type yet) and then go to a race slick (pending on points for TT or for ST classing)
 
#210 ·
Yea the tires are suppose to be good for track. They had the Rival S but those were suppose to warm up faster. they have droped the Rival and the Rival S and have the Rival S 1.5 which I think is the updated all around tire that warms up quick but does not get to loose when hot.

Also the size is an issue. I am not sure if I want to try to drop down to Roto Slip streams for the 15" size tire. There are a lot of Spec Miatas that have take offs that are good for a few track sessions for non competitive races. The 17" wheels the width of tires that are available as take offs are way to wide for the Focus.
 
#211 ·
Final bits are being worked.

Vent for the Fuel tank to remove the EVAP container is made.



Took the factory adapter off the plastic line and got some 3/4" fuel grade line. Cut to fit and routed the same length. Added the K&N filter and barb to keep things sealed up and filtered.

New rear springs at a 450 lb rate are installed. The size of the spring is funny to compare against other daily objects.



End result is a good ride height.



Front poly bushings on the control arms had some play in them so got those swapped out for new bushings. Not a whole lot to take pictures of on that side of things.

Last thing I think I can work on before the season start is either the remove and replace of the plastic thermostat housing or the pulling of the AC system and new Gates Racing belt. Thoughts on which one I should try to do before season starts?
 
#212 ·
Got new spacer blocks the other day from Massive for my rear suspension.



These allow the sway bar links to actually connect up and be properly spaced.

Suspension is all installed and ready to rock (its the Focus RTR package :) )


Ordered some Sparco Fabric tow straps to get installed for tow recovery. Also got my Forged Steel lugnuts. went with Gorilla Automotive 45038BC-20 Black 12mm x 1.50 Thread Size Forged Steel Chrome Finish Open End Lug Nut to go with the ARP wheel studs.

Now to figure out the alignment. there is a race shop that will do the alignment for around $250, but with the full replacement of EVERYTHING I am thinking I need to trailer it. Uhaul trailer rental!
 
#214 ·
Got some last bits. I am always going to be saying last bits.



Forged Wheel lug nuts to keep those wheels on the ARP studs.



The Steel lug nuts are about 2.54oz in weight each vs the Aluminum rand named ones that are 0.85 oz each. So even though they are a bit heavier much needed security.

Rear bumper was removed to install the strap.



Looks like the dealership did a really crappy job at doing the minimum needed back 10 years ago when the accident happened. Support bar is rusted, looks like they did not replace it, or blast and repaint it. So will be going to the junk yard and trying to find a non rusted one.

The back end needed to be washed down to get the dirt off and took it for a idle down the street. Looks good, i think...



I very much hear the springs rattling around in the back now should lessen as things ware a bit.

Ordered some aluminum Steering rack bushings from Alex the Machinist so once I get those installed it will be off to the alignment shop.
 
#215 ·
Well was able to get my alignemt at home close enough to get the car out to the track for the guy to work my alignment.



was able to dial in zero toe front and back, with about 3 degree in the back and 4 degree of negative camber in the front. Going to give this a shot. Going to the track June 14th and 15th for the first time in a while so hope the alignment and the stronger hubs keep me out of the garage fixing broken parts.

Out in the rain still missing its rear end...


Going to go to the junk yard tomorrow to pick up a new rear bracket for the bumper. the old one was rusted because back when the car was in an accident the Ford body shop did a crappy job.

I think it sits quite well on the track wheels and rubber:


rear:


front:


Thoughts are once these tires go putting a maxxis Victra RC-1 tire on and might have to flair or pull the fenders even more.

Also for my birthday I got a set of pedals to use. Got the ultra high grippy ones from C-F-M which the vendor has sold out of so I got the last set it looks like (or at least according to C-F-M).


Also got new ball joint pinch bolts as the ones I am using and seeing recently a bit of issues with these going bad I am replacing with brand new OEM bolts and nuts.

Getting those bolts and the bumper mounted back on is the only prep work for the up coming NASA HPDE days I am doing. going to try for a Friday / Saturday combo and might get into HPDE4 after the weekend. we shall see. I hope to get some fun video to post and see how I improve my lap times.

End goal is going to be ST6 in NASA, got a lot of work ahead of me to get there and be competitive.
 
#216 ·
Car looks great and the pics of all the suspension work shows some serious effort, wow. With the alignment to way we have found what works before we screwed up tires is have someone with you and do tire temps and pressures as soon as you roll into the pits, the faster the better. If you don’t have a true tire temp gauge, harbor freight infra red gun will work. Tire temps will tell ya where u need to be and tire pressure increase will be a help in setting up the car.
 
#217 ·
Thanks I will look at getting a gauge and temp sensor. Don't have the money for the true tire temp but those infrared work well at close range. Need to monitor pressures and Temps.
 
#219 ·
Thanks!

Added some flash and reduced some weight.

Found a chrome rear trim piece and getting that installed. and removed the rear wiper.



For brake pads, what are people doing for track? There is now a HPDE contingency program for HAWK. Looks like they offer DTC pads for the front and rear of the SVT calipers. when these pads need to be replaced looking to go more aggressive. Have HAWK HPS I believe right now. Get 35% off from a HPDE3 to HPDE4 transition which I will likely do this coming weekend or two. DTC-50 for the front and HT-10 for the back appear to be a good step forward.? There is not really a middle step from the HPS/HP+ pads.
 
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