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The TICK build thread

56K views 253 replies 40 participants last post by  UnFocusedST 
#1 · (Edited)
I am starting my build thread approximately 1 year from the date of the incident. My car is a 2001 ZX3, and has been so named by family and friends as the "TICK".

1 year ago I went through my normal process of making sure my car would pass Utah safety and emissions. Part of this was to get the EGR working as it had been fine due to a Tune but visual inspections have increased in effectiveness and was forced to confront it last year. After hooking up the EGR some pipes were hot now where were not previously causing the 0 AWG wire ran for the starter and the alternator (routed through the intake runners and coincidentally had been resting against the metal tube between the EGR and the intake manifold). With the EGR hooked up and not realizing this about halfway to work the car lost power and started to have smoke come out from under the hood.

Pulled over and tried starting it again first thing and it would start but then instantly die unless the throttle was pushed in. Still smoking now more I opened the hood to see flames... was able to blow them out and disconnect power but damage had been done. My insurance has road side assistance but requires it to go to a dealer, the dealer was not sure what might have gone wrong (even after me telling them exactly what happened and what needed fixed).

After realizing that the dealership was not the way to go I was able to get it towed home. after doing compression tests it was evident that I may have had also a head gasket that had gone. Either way I found that this was a perfect time to do the rebuild that I have always wanted.

What is Currently Done:
Koni Sport suspension
SVT Front Brakes
SVT Exhaust Header (wrapped w/ SVT CAT & Flex)
Magnaflow 2.5" SS CAT Back (no resonator)
Focus-Sport Cool-Flo Intake (no longer ITG filter)
65mm Focus Cental TB
Focus-Sport Tune
Steada Short through shifter
F2 turn key transmission with 4.10 gear final drive
Focus Sport Aluminum Flywheel
Pro Luk Gold Clutch
VF engineering Rear "Dog bone" mount
Eibach sway bars (front and rear)
Focus Sport strut tower braces (front and rear)
MOOG tie rod ends (from a 2007) and sway bar end links

What I am doing now:
Eagle H-Beam Rods
JE 85.5mm 9.0:1 pistons
Clevite 77 P series Rod bearings
Sealed Power Main bearings
ARP Main and head studs
C-F-M High RPM Oil Pump
Adjustable Cam Gears
SVT high flow CAT from C-F-M (Street version) & larger flex pipe

What I will be doing:
After I get the car up and running with the built bottom end the top end will be addressed
Ford Racing head
Stage 2 CAMS
3" Trubends cat back exhaust
Quaife Limited Slip Diff
Stage 3 or 4 clutch

What I will do once I get $$ for Turbo install:
Get what ever is needed for a goal of 300-325 HP

All Pictures taken will be uploaded to Photobucket ( http://s603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/Magus2727/Focus Rebuild/?start=all ) and select pictures will be direct linked to this build thread.


So to start this build out came the motor and the transmission.





After removing everything and taking as many pictures as I could so I could remember where everything was I realized even though I had graduated and working full time now, I did not have the increase in extra cash I was expecting for for most of 2011 I was cleaning the bolts one by one with a Dremmal and a SS wire wheel. Tax returns allowed the work to begin.



I was able to get JE Pistons and Eagle H-Beam rods from C-F-M and also then get the engine work done, high speed balance of the crank (along with a polish).



I have 85.5mm pistons for a 9.0:1 compression, figured that this was going to be the only time i was going to build this up so was going to do it right and go big or go home. [:)]





I am planing on going FI with this for a Turbo, but at the moment as its getting built as funds come in the goal is to get it up and running built for use of a turbo and then add the turbo approx 1 year down the road.

Over Memorial day weekend I was able to install ARP Mains



and get the crank shaft installed



i have approx 0.002" of radial clearance between the bearings (used Sealed Power bearings, Clevite no longer makes the P series).

I also did not like the look of the motor having the bad peeling black paint (is it paint?) so after cleaning the block further and in more detail I got the POR-15 engine enamel paint kit for a Ford Corporate Blue color. I also got that painted over Memorial Day weekend.





The pistons will be installed after triple checking the end gap again and clean everything up... I have a half jug of royal purple 5W-20 which I will be using to lube the pistons during install.




UPDATE 6/1/2012:

Pistons have been installed, Thats the last of the new parts I have. Next will be getting the bottom end put back together after I get the C-F-M oil pump once it comes back into stock...


Ring End Gaps:

Piston #1 -- Piston #2 -- Piston #3 -- Piston #4​
Top Comp Ring ------ 0.016" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.016"
Bottom Comp Ring --- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.017" ---- 0.018"
Top Oil Ring --------- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.020"
Bottom Oil Ring ------ 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020"









 
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#137 ·
Well likely going to be out there the 22-24th of April.
 
#138 ·
Well have a bunch of work to do. I have not had very good luck with bearings on my car this year. Accessory Tension Pulley went out as posted before. Got the new one from C-F-M.

My car was making another tapping noise and further inspection showed that the timing belt idler pulley also was bad. It was moving around on the bearing.

so YEA timing belt change. Only time I have done the timing belt on this car was when the motor was all the way out. I must say thats the easy way to do it.

Ordered the GATES blue comp belt. When compared to the OEM belt it looks like there is more reinforcement in the belt.



Using a new valve cover gasket. its from Magnum. They recently got bought by the same people who own Victor Reinz.



The edges do not seem as clean as the Feelpro, but the gasket has more of an edge. We will see how this valve cover gasket works out.

Also replacing the timing belt tension pulley Ford dealers here dont appear to stock these so ordered it on Thursday and getting it Monday. I guess they must not do to many timing belt changes on these cars or they are not replacing the pulleys while they do the work. My pulley was Concave...



I was able to get a 0.006" feeler gauge into the pulley. apparently its suppose to be convex and that helps the belt stay centered on the pulley? not sure if I have my concave vs convex correct. Either way new pulley.

The accessory idle pulley is still in good shape so will just be reusing that, we will so how long that one lasts.

During my prep work for the last NASA event I discovered that my AC was not working and completely dry. Working on taking off the connections and replacing a few of the gaskets. also going to put a new expansion valve, the one I took out looks a bit dirty.



Companies may a variable one for cooler climates (under 105*F) and for warmer (over 105*F) that is suppose to work better when at idle and lower engine speeds. Not sure I want to try them they cost about $14 more and some reviews have indicated that they are more likely to brake or not work.
 
#139 ·
Mega update on build thread.

AC Recharged:
Replaced the Dryer, Compressor - Dryer hose set, and the expansion valve. Got it recharged by a friend who services AC systems on the side and its nice to have cool air. Decided to stay with the fixed valve type.

Exhaust EGR removed:
I have had the EGR unfunctional but still hooked up for a while now (since tuning). Was always trying to get a good plug to put on the header. Same friend who did the AC also was able to TIG weld a fitting for me.



So was able to remove the EGR stuff to give me some more engine space to get my hand in there and replace things.

About 4-5 weeks ago though I had a weird event where during a really hot day and stuck in stop and go traffic on a freeway the car started to get warm. It never dove into the red but it got close. When I would accelerate or rev the motor the temp would drop. I got it off and to a gas station as soon as I could and found I eneded up adding over 1 gallon of water to the coolant system. I and leaked out water.

Looking at some of the coolant hoses it looked like there was a small leak at the hoses that when under pressure must have slowly been leaking and at the hotter temps it leaked more. It got high enough of pressure that it started pulling on the hoses:



Checked also the spark plugs and found that #2 looked a little odd. Burning oil it looks like.



So I went over all the coolant line, flushed the coolant system because there was crap in the overflow tank:



After doing all this it still looked like a number of the hoses were bulging and possibly deteriorating and putting crap in the coolant. So I evaluated the cost of replacing all the lines or going also with the stronger silicone lines... went with the silicone lines.





But that still has not fixed my problem. I was loosing about 1 oz a min of driving the car. every 25 min drive into work i had to top it off with at least a full 32 oz water bottle to bring it to the top of the full line on the overflow tank.

Then also when driving back from work Wednesday I had some consistant missfire on a cylinder when under some heavy load. Pulled the plugs and found this:



Cylinder #2 was wet and looking at the head of the piston it was now clean and shinny. I have a head gasket leak.



I did a leak down test on the cylinders:



Cylinder #2 is the top right image, its a good 10-15% more leakage than the others
Note- On the leak down test the tester manifold needed more PSI than my little compressor could give to zero out the leakage gauge. So I was already 5% out the gate and I lost 5psi at the manifold by the time things stabilized and i could take a readying as it was slowly leaking. I figure all the values are approx 10% better than what the gauge shows.

I removed the valve cover and saw this also in the oil where the valve cover gasket hits the head.



That looks like water in the oil.

So my thought of what occurred was: The small leak (think it was at the crossover tube at the hose that goes to the thermostat housing) drained enough fluid slow enough that it was not noticeable until on a really hot day it leaked enough that the engine overheated. it overheated enough to make the head gasket go bad. the leak is so small that I think it really is only putting water in the system when under max pressure. I can let the car idle all day and the fluid level does not drop. But under load and when the cylinder is under vacuum trying to pull in air and the coolant system is at pressure it leaks in. thus why the misfire when only under load.

So the head is coming off, going to have a machine shop do another valve job on it if needed, surface the head 0.010" and then reinstall. I also have a spare junk yard head that I have disassembled that I will have machined to have as a spare for future cases since this will be a mostly track car now. Debating if I will also work on replacing the rings.

Cylinder #2 has always been a bit lower on compression. My gauges showed that I had gaped the rings the same as the other pistons but with the leak down test showing more leakage and none of it really through the coolant, and none of it from the intake valves or exhaust valves wonder if I should just do the rings while I have the head off also (no bottom end machine work).

Over the next few weeks will be doing the tare down, and then will get it all put together this fall. I need to have a fall/winter project right?
 
#140 ·
Taredown has started...



Most parts have been ordered.
 
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#141 ·
Day two tare down.

Removed the CAT and O2 sensors. I need to get new hardware and found that I had an exhaust leak at the CAT to flex junction. Had some good black deposits out the side of the flange.

Removed header, glad I got the upgraded ARP bolts as they came out easy the copper anti seize also likely helped.

Alternator also removed.



Going to try to remove the rest of accessories and start on the timing belt and cams in the morning.
 
#142 ·


top views does not look like much has changed. starter is removed though. brakes, knuckles, and half shafts on both sides are removed. almost ready to drop the transmission

got the rings in the mail today and got the valve seals yesterday. Fel-Pro valve seals for $14 a set. got two for both heads I am going to have machined.
 
#143 ·
more boxes today:



glad to see the oil pan gasket in the kit now. and got the tri-metal bearings for the rods and mains. Looks like Clevite and Federal are making the better bearings again for the Zetec.
 
#145 ·
He did the valve job on the head. I had the guy down at parts + in sandy do the work on the block. I did all my own ring gaping and assembly.

Only thing I did not like was he did not clean the head as well as he should have and got glass beads still in the oil valleys and it took a while to clean out and I did not get them all and they have scared the stock cam shafts.

I will be taking my head to him to work again. but with the oil valley plugs all removed and ask him to wash it a few more times to make sure its fully clean.
 
#146 ·
Spent more time on the motor getting it torn apart.

Took the head off:




Quite a bit more deposits on Cylinder #2, which is to be expected:



Taking a look at the cylinder walls with the pistons still in:



I found a grove in Cylinder #2 wall:



Took the oil pan off and found some chunks:


Then took the pistons out and found this joy:






So the block looks like it will be scrap due to the 85.5mm over bore for the pistons and the depth of the grove is more than what my honing brush would likely take out.

So looks like I will be going to the junk yard to get a new block and will have all the machine shop labor in that. I am guessing I should grab the crank and mains from the block I get at the yard and use those? Meaning balancing and what not again.

I am working to see if JE will warranty the piston as this clearly looks like a stress fracture in the piston. Fingers crossed. Good news is that the rods appear to be in good shape. No dents or dings in the rods or the crank. The aluminum from the piston is MUCH softer than anything else in the block. The bearings looks clean (even though I have new ones that I will use).
 
#148 ·
no, the beads were only in the head and pushed to the ends of the oil valleys. the bearings look clean and almost new still. no indication of anything in the crank.

I belive this is failure due to a defect in the aluminum piston that took time to show evidence. it was a few days after a track day that the ticking occurred when I was doing the timing belt replacement. so either failed due to manufacture defect or sustained speeds, high rpms, and high loads.

I will still get another set of JE Pistons as another local racer who is running boost at the track has used all other vendors and said that the JE have been the best so far and feel the highest in quality and strongest. (he has broken both Probe and Super Tech)
 
#150 ·
thanks. going to get a whole motor and a block. put the motor in the car so I can still DD it while I get the funds to build the motor back up.
 
#151 ·
Dang man, that's no fun to find those kinds of issues. Hopefully the next go goes a lot better!
 
#152 ·
thanks... depending on if I feel like it's safe to use the rods again I am questioning how much the financial difference would be in doing a V8 5.0L 302 swap...
 
#153 ·
That would be sick! I think it would kinda ruin the handling though haha. From memory, there are kits out there to toss a V8 in a Focus, and I'm pretty sure a kit without the engine is like 20 grand, so if you're looking for opinions, I would probably either just keep the rods, try and find one new one, or just buy a new set. ~$400 to me seems a lot easier to swallow. But that's just my .02 cents :)
 
#154 ·
motor and transmission out.





parts are all in the basement. garage is now cleaned up and will be ready for a motor from the junk yard.

 
#155 ·
Status update...

Got a motor on Wednesday from the junk yard for $215 after taxes, warranty, and core charges. Found a 2000 Zetec motor on a automatic transmission in good condition. Things so far are checking out good, fingers crossed it will still run and fire up good.



the timing belt and pulleys were all shot so replaced those with items off my motor. So timing belt and pulleys replaced. along with transferring the water pump.

put on additional brackets yesterday.

This morning put on the alternator and mounted up the transmission. Always the hardest job for a 1 person effort.



have some odds and ends to clean up and work on before I put the motor in the car.

Fluids should be here on Monday. hope to have it ready to fire up on Monday with fingers crossed.

as a note I did already swap the crank position sensor with my manual sensor also.
 
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#156 ·


intake manifold, starter, T-Stat installed.

going to try to clean up the injectors and get them installed.

final clean up and might try to get it in the car tonight or tomorrow.
 
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#157 ·
Update:

I did a Google search on the vin and it looks like it had 159,494 miles on it when it hit the auction block on July 8th so motor had what I am calling 160,000 miles on it. Being that my speedometer is a bit slow still my car has 194k rounding up to 200k miles I still got a motor with less miles than the body.

Got the motor in:




But when it started the clutch would not fully disengage. I could start the motor in neutral and let it run all day. but no mater how many times I would bleed the slave cylinder it still world not shift. I could hear the clutch "slipping" when I pushed the clutch in. I was suggested that I may have put the clutch in backwards also.

So I got parts ordered for a new slave cylinder and master cylinder while I was at it. Remove the transmission and the pressure plate.

And that is what I did wrong end to the fly wheel.

Nothing to bad. I think due to the ARP hardware the springs are not that bad and the bolts are not that bad either.





Then once I got the thing all put back together it was not starting. When I started the starter would just click. Not a bad battery, double checked grounds.

I took the starter out and with clamps on the posts it started and spun fine. I hook it back into the cars electrical and it would short again. Turns out the solenoid was loose enough in the crimp housing that when the bolts were torqued down it rotated the housing just enough to push the braid against the metal housing of the starter.

Well I got a new starter anyway (life time warranty and the current one was 6.5 years old) and put some tape around the starter so in any future case it could not short against the case.

Car is running well and working on tuning from Tom. So data logs back and forth now.

It no longer stalls with the AC turns on and no more ticking noises!!!!

I am going to clean up the old block and pistons and likely try to turn it into a coffee table for our room with a glass top.

And for the build I am going to be going to the junk yard when the weather gets nicer and pulling a short block. This will be the start of the next build. The plan is so I can do a weekend motor swap once I have the new motor completely built.

I am thinking of going for NA high compression. Getting 11:1 compression pistons, 0.030" shave of the head, Stage 3/4 Crower cams, Oil pump gears (for the high RPM).

I have some time to think about it before I have $ for the pistons.
 
#159 ·
Well, I got a 2004 new to me SVT Focus 5 door. So the Tick will be more of a garaged car and tracked. So will be starting a slow full out build and interior gut out for cage and race seat.

Found this hood at the junk yard.


Requires some fiberglass work but for $23 is worth a shot to restore and repair to then paint. I got a paint gun for Christmas also to do auto body paint. Might be the first project to work on.
 
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#160 ·
Been a while since I posted last.

Got the group buy of the super hubs competed so will have 2 sets of new hubs that can handle the abuse of the track.

For prep got new bearings and when studs.



Going to add my own bullnose to the studs as they don't offer then from ARP. I have confirmed with ARP that as long as the bolts don't change color post grinding will not impact the strength of the bolt.



Went 4 threads in a little over 1/4" into the bolt.

One thing I need to work on is the shifter cable.


The up/down (black and white coupler) has popped out of the housing a few times on me now. Might be from being a bit aggressive in shifting and need a new clutch (on the plans next time the trans it out for a LSD.) wondering if there is some sort of clamp other than zip ties that could be made. Thoughts on any down fashion with clamping this from the top?
 
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