Focus Fanatics Forum banner

The TICK build thread

56K views 253 replies 40 participants last post by  UnFocusedST 
#1 · (Edited)
I am starting my build thread approximately 1 year from the date of the incident. My car is a 2001 ZX3, and has been so named by family and friends as the "TICK".

1 year ago I went through my normal process of making sure my car would pass Utah safety and emissions. Part of this was to get the EGR working as it had been fine due to a Tune but visual inspections have increased in effectiveness and was forced to confront it last year. After hooking up the EGR some pipes were hot now where were not previously causing the 0 AWG wire ran for the starter and the alternator (routed through the intake runners and coincidentally had been resting against the metal tube between the EGR and the intake manifold). With the EGR hooked up and not realizing this about halfway to work the car lost power and started to have smoke come out from under the hood.

Pulled over and tried starting it again first thing and it would start but then instantly die unless the throttle was pushed in. Still smoking now more I opened the hood to see flames... was able to blow them out and disconnect power but damage had been done. My insurance has road side assistance but requires it to go to a dealer, the dealer was not sure what might have gone wrong (even after me telling them exactly what happened and what needed fixed).

After realizing that the dealership was not the way to go I was able to get it towed home. after doing compression tests it was evident that I may have had also a head gasket that had gone. Either way I found that this was a perfect time to do the rebuild that I have always wanted.

What is Currently Done:
Koni Sport suspension
SVT Front Brakes
SVT Exhaust Header (wrapped w/ SVT CAT & Flex)
Magnaflow 2.5" SS CAT Back (no resonator)
Focus-Sport Cool-Flo Intake (no longer ITG filter)
65mm Focus Cental TB
Focus-Sport Tune
Steada Short through shifter
F2 turn key transmission with 4.10 gear final drive
Focus Sport Aluminum Flywheel
Pro Luk Gold Clutch
VF engineering Rear "Dog bone" mount
Eibach sway bars (front and rear)
Focus Sport strut tower braces (front and rear)
MOOG tie rod ends (from a 2007) and sway bar end links

What I am doing now:
Eagle H-Beam Rods
JE 85.5mm 9.0:1 pistons
Clevite 77 P series Rod bearings
Sealed Power Main bearings
ARP Main and head studs
C-F-M High RPM Oil Pump
Adjustable Cam Gears
SVT high flow CAT from C-F-M (Street version) & larger flex pipe

What I will be doing:
After I get the car up and running with the built bottom end the top end will be addressed
Ford Racing head
Stage 2 CAMS
3" Trubends cat back exhaust
Quaife Limited Slip Diff
Stage 3 or 4 clutch

What I will do once I get $$ for Turbo install:
Get what ever is needed for a goal of 300-325 HP

All Pictures taken will be uploaded to Photobucket ( http://s603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/Magus2727/Focus Rebuild/?start=all ) and select pictures will be direct linked to this build thread.


So to start this build out came the motor and the transmission.





After removing everything and taking as many pictures as I could so I could remember where everything was I realized even though I had graduated and working full time now, I did not have the increase in extra cash I was expecting for for most of 2011 I was cleaning the bolts one by one with a Dremmal and a SS wire wheel. Tax returns allowed the work to begin.



I was able to get JE Pistons and Eagle H-Beam rods from C-F-M and also then get the engine work done, high speed balance of the crank (along with a polish).



I have 85.5mm pistons for a 9.0:1 compression, figured that this was going to be the only time i was going to build this up so was going to do it right and go big or go home. [:)]





I am planing on going FI with this for a Turbo, but at the moment as its getting built as funds come in the goal is to get it up and running built for use of a turbo and then add the turbo approx 1 year down the road.

Over Memorial day weekend I was able to install ARP Mains



and get the crank shaft installed



i have approx 0.002" of radial clearance between the bearings (used Sealed Power bearings, Clevite no longer makes the P series).

I also did not like the look of the motor having the bad peeling black paint (is it paint?) so after cleaning the block further and in more detail I got the POR-15 engine enamel paint kit for a Ford Corporate Blue color. I also got that painted over Memorial Day weekend.





The pistons will be installed after triple checking the end gap again and clean everything up... I have a half jug of royal purple 5W-20 which I will be using to lube the pistons during install.




UPDATE 6/1/2012:

Pistons have been installed, Thats the last of the new parts I have. Next will be getting the bottom end put back together after I get the C-F-M oil pump once it comes back into stock...


Ring End Gaps:

Piston #1 -- Piston #2 -- Piston #3 -- Piston #4​
Top Comp Ring ------ 0.016" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.015" ---- 0.016"
Bottom Comp Ring --- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.017" ---- 0.018"
Top Oil Ring --------- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.018" ---- 0.020"
Bottom Oil Ring ------ 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020" ---- 0.020"









 
See less See more
15
#57 · (Edited)
Got the paint done. Wet sanded it down with 2000 grit. then cut and buffed it.



Its now the best looking paint on my car. Once I get everything back together it will look great. unfortunately I being the one who worked on it can see little blemishes that most other people cant see. Oh well. not bad for my first fiberglass work and using 5 year old bondo.
 
#59 ·
So this is a post that is long over due as i have made some progress on my reduild. prepare for a photo overload.

I have finished the front bumper and fiberglass repair work. it now just needs to be primer and painted. local shop quoted about $350 for the paint. Thats going to be the last thing that gets done as I have other things that need the money to get the car driving again.



I got the C-F-M PVC delete for my birthday a few months back.



I got a rear SVT brake kit and installed w/ Power slot rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Russell stainless steel lines.





I have also been working on doing a custom dual gauge pod. I am having problems with the paint. the flat paint I am using after using it as directed and put on the last 1-2- medium to heavy coats it never cures and stays soft. so this is still actively being worked on. I created a fiberglass mold of it so I can easily make copies



I painted all the brackets that hold the accessories and other items in POR-15 so they will stay nice and hopefully stay clean and make it easier to wash the crap off.



I found a 2000 intake manifold at the junk yard a few weeks back. it has some massive blowby so had junk all along the runners. got it all cleaned up and ported the intake manifold to accept my FC 65mm TB.




This is where I stand today. I should be getting the OEM head gasket in the next month and also drop my head off at the machine shop to start work on that. I am still holding off on hoping that C-F-M will offer the high RPM pump.
 
#61 ·
Very nice.

Was wondering about painting hubs face since the rotors will be in contact with the paint. Same with the face of the rotor being in contact with the wheel. Think they might stick and cause the paint to come off when taking wheels off?
 
#62 ·
Thanks.

Since its the special paint that good to 500F and it has had a few months to set and cure and "dry" i don't think it should be a problem. but I guess we will see next time I pull the rotor.
 
#63 ·
Update w/o pictures.

I got the last two brackets painted in POR-15. I am out of things to paint. Next plan with next few paychecks is to get the new front brakes (caliper pistons had pitting so need rebuilt ones) and get the cross member blasted and powder coated. This will allow for me to install the suspension back together and when I get the tubular front control arms be able to wheel the car out of the garage and give it a good wash.
 
#64 ·
I had left over Gold reflective material from what I used on the oil pan. So figured I would put it on the intake runners specifically where the EGR runs under the intake.



Got an influx of funds so in the next 1-2 months parts will start rolling in and hope to have the car running before the end of the year.
 
#65 ·
So big day!

Dropped off front cross member for powder coating. basicaly same cost to go with a two stage powder coat almost the exact same color as the car so got that lined up. going to get that end of next week.

Placed an order for the Billet aluminum timing belt pulley from GoldCoastAutomotive.com

Placed an order for new Eibach sway bar hardware (my bushings were toast)

Placed an order with FSWerks for new Poly inserts on the VF ENgineering Rear dog Bone

Placed an order with RockAuto for front bake calipers, gaskets, valve stem seals, Water pump, sparg plug wires, and perhaps 1 -2 other odds and ends I needed.

Placed an order with C-F-M whom are AWESOME!!!! for Front tublar control arms, crower springs, timing belt kit, accessory belt kit with there billet pulley on the tensioner, VF engineering passenger and Driver side motor mounts, head gasket, and ford racing OEM oil pump (only bit I wish could have been the high RPM... but a latter day I suppose)

I will be taking the head to get work done on it once I get the valve stem seals and new springs and retainers in. Then it will be build baby build. might get it on the road before the end of the month!!!
 
#67 ·
Thanks. I am looking forward to getting my parts. I may be picking up a 12 pack of red bull in the next week to have on ice while I work.
 
#68 ·
There are not that many times where you expect the U.S. post office to come though... but they delivered some boxes a lot sooner than expected.



Unpacking:


The Bosh water pump is all metal even the fins. I am very happy with the quality of this unit so far.

The seals and gaskets look nice

Went with OEM motorcraft plugs since there is not much point on spending more on "high performance" ones. Need to make sure I have Motorcraft copper plugs...

Brake Calipers on Tuesday, other bits dont know, but the large box from C-F-M will be here on Friday!
 
#69 ·
Nice. How much was the Bosch water pump?

In February/March I'm going to order my timing belt stuff and want to do the pump as well. Also will probably get the Gold coast pulley. Had that pulley on my kona which definitely helped to keep the belt from walking which I was having a little trouble with.
 
#70 ·
Water pump was $26 bucks I think? its on RockAuto with the heart so is one of the more preferred or more purchased part.

I have the Gold Coast pulley on order. Shipped out yesterday should get on the 15th.

Odd sent priority two day on the 11th, yet scheduled for the 15th? even with tomorrow being Sunday that's 4 days shipping including the day sent. Sometimes USPS comes though other times they fall on there face...
 
#72 ·
That it is and my research showed the water pump is not a brand specific requirement for it to not leak or fail. So did not get the cheapest but got one that was not $100.
 
#73 ·
Got my cross member back from powder coating.



 
#75 ·
it needed it. and it ended up working out a deal to have it be the same cost as black. And I will see it. and any one who has a tire off and or on a lift.
 
#77 ·
So Pictures of unboxing!!

Passanger side VF Engineering Mount:


Driver Side VF Engineering Mount:


Replaced bushings on VF-Engineering Dogbone:


Accessory tensioner w/ C-F-M Billet Pulley:


New Oil Pump:




Painted Brake Calipers (only one shown):


New front control arms (C-F-M tubular):


Crower Springs and retainers:


Paint match compare (crossmember on top hood on bottom):
 
#79 ·
Got Everything installed and the car washed:









Before wash:


During Wash:
 
#80 ·
Getting the bottom end of the block built up.








Ran into a few problems thought.

First was the oil pump pick up. It cracked when putting it back on even though I was TQ to spec. it hit the 84in-lbs and then when I did a second click the plastic broke. So now I need to figure that out. Might just go to the junk yard. dealership wants $57 for the plastic and $64 for the metal. Junk yard likely will be $5-$10 for a pick up.

The second problem I have ran into and knew it might need to be fixed is the water pump to housing bolt. one bolt was very easy to come out. (likely was damaged when a dealership replaced the water pump when the screws backed out of the water pump pulley...). So I will need to pick up a helicoil kit on Monday and drill and tap out one of the bolt holes.

I will drop the head and all my bits off to the machine shop on Monday so they can start on that.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top