im talking about the M2 style that seems so popular these days....i just took mine off a couple of days ago and this is what i fount out about it NOT being made correctly for the zetecs
see the black at the bottom of each hole...i was loosing power, A LOT OF POWER, just from it not lining up correctly
I had a repair/inspection ticket dilemma recently... my OBX header had the same look. I lined up the gasket for shiss and gigs, and they didn't line up either. Nor did the new gasket. I had to awl the gasket openings a bit to prevent the new one from doing that.
You try to save money by going with a cheaper part but then go through grief with install and/or results. I've learned that if you want it right, you need to go with a reputable part or vendor.
W/O seeing it I've no clue.
Is the gasket hanging into the runner or missing the flange completely?
What this looks like to me is there is too much stress on the collector flange. This redistributes that stress to the header flange in a forward direction. That lifts the header flange away form the head and causes a leak.
It's the reason for the factory bracket at the collector location.
I know it's the reason I went through 2 Focus Central headers. Both broke the welds at the collector merges. If I had, or if I could have got it to fit, the factory mount they'd of lasted longer.
The other car has some ebay header on it and I know the bottom is leaking near the head. If I lift the collector I can head the leak go away.
Problem is the factory bracket doesn't fit with any aftermarket header. So you have to make a sandwich style.
it's best not to buy anything mechanical or performance related from ebay. their parts are off brand, usually made of junk material, and majority of the time, doesn't fit correctly.
Looks aligned to me. Glad to see that you saw the light finally and went with an SVT header. I remember you went about last year asking all kinds of questions about headers when you finally decided upon the M2 due to price.
here's all the TQ for the engine on a zetec. the link don't work because you have to pay for ALLDATA but i got all of the info atschool where we have access to it. it's basically every TQ spec required to assemble a zetec. also i can put up larger pictures next week as well. also i'll save the pictures and rehost them since they're currently being hosted on the ALLDATA server which goes down for maintenance occasionally.
2002 Ford Focus ZX3 L4-2.0L DOHC VIN 3
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Specifications Mechanical Specifications Torque Torque
Hose clamps 35 inch lbs.
Intake manifold studs 44 inch lbs.
Intake manifold bolts and nuts 13 ft. lbs.
EGR tube assembly to EGR valve 30 ft. lbs.
EGR pipe to ignition coil bracket 53 inch lbs.
EGR tube assembly to catalyst 30 ft. lbs.
Heat shield to exhaust manifold 89 inch lbs.
Exhaust manifold studs 44 inch lbs.
Exhaust manifold nuts 12 ft. lbs.
Catalytic converter to exhaust manifold 35 ft. lbs.
Catalytic converter to exhaust 35 ft. lbs.
Right-hand driveshaft center bearing 18 ft. lbs.
Generator to bracket 18 ft. lbs.
Generator bracket to upper cylinder block bolts 18 ft. lbs.
Generator bracket to lower cylinder block bolts 48 ft. lbs.
Transmission flange bolts 35 ft. lbs.
Starter motor to transmission 26 ft. lbs.
Oil drain plug, MTX transmission 33 ft. lbs.
Oil control plug, MTX transmission 33 ft. lbs.
Flywheel bolts 83 ft. lbs.
Clutch pressure plate 21 ft. lbs.
Engine roll restrictor to transmission 35 ft. lbs.
Engine roll restrictor to subframe 35 ft. lbs.
Engine rear mount to body 35 ft. lbs.
Engine rear mount (nut on transmission mounting bracket) 98 ft. lbs.
Engine front mount to engine 59 ft. lbs.
Engine front mount to body 35 ft. lbs.
Power steering pump to bracket 18 ft. lbs.
Power steering pump bracket 35 ft. lbs.
Cylinder head bolts
Stage 1: 20 Nm
Stage 2: 40 Nm
Stage 3: 90 degrees
Camshaft bearing cap bolts
Stage 1: 10 Nm
Stage 2: 19 Nm
Cylinder head cover
Stage 1: 2 Nm
Stage 2: 7.8 Nm
Spark plugs 11 ft. lbs.
Timing belt tensioner 18 ft. lbs.
Camshaft timing belt pulleys 50 ft. lbs.
Upper timing belt cover 89 inch lbs.
Ignition coil (El) bracket to cylinder head 15 ft. lbs.
Thermostat housing 15 ft. lbs.
Fuel rail 89 inch lbs.
Engine rear lifting eye 12 ft. lbs.
Engine rear lifting eye studs 53 inch lbs.
Engine front lifting eye 35 ft. lbs.
Engine oil drain plug 18 ft. lbs.
Oil pressure switch 20 ft. lbs.
Cylinder block oil gallery blanking plugs 17 ft. lbs.
Heater pipe bracket to oil pan 89 inch lbs.
Oil pan to lower crankcase
Stage 1: 6 Nm
Stage 2: 10 Nm
Lower crankcase to cylinder block 16 ft. lbs.
Oil pump 8 ft. lbs.
Oil intake pipe to oil pump 89 inch lbs.
Main bearing bolts
Stage 1: 25 Nm
Stage 2: 60 degrees
Connecting rod bearing cap bolts
Stage 1: 35 Nm
Stage 2: 90 degrees
Coolant pump 13 ft. lbs.
Crankshaft rear oil seal carrier 15 ft. lbs.
Drive belt idler pulley 30 ft. lbs.
Crankcase ventilation pipe bracket 17 ft. lbs.
Crankcase ventilation 89 inch lbs.
Coolant pump pulley 18 ft. lbs.
Crankshaft belt pulley 85 ft. lbs.
Crankshaft position sensor bracket 15 ft. lbs.
Crankshaft position sensor to bracket 71 inch lbs.
Idler pulley 17 ft. lbs.
Knock sensor 15 ft. lbs.
If i ride around with no o2 senosors how bad is that? i figure itll be a little rough running, but the front o2 wouldnt come off the header and the rear one had frayed broken wires. so i threw out all of them and im regreting that now. A new one is $50+!!! what i was thinkin is once i get the funds for a oil pan (dented and leaking cause of rust) and the o2 sensor i would put everythin in then
anyways got some more questions about this damn set up...i knew i should have gone with 2.5" not 3" piping...how do i make the svt header work with and orp to flex...3" big
ive got some pics of where the flex is connected to the exhaust and where it hangs down to receive the ORP to the header
and this is a shot directly under the header looking at the flex
I'd have to say thats a gasket issue and maybe a mount issue also. I had the same problem too but then I bought the felpro head gasket kit to redo all my gaskets an I took off the cat mount an that mount under the engine with those out of the way and that thick meaty gasket it sealed up nice and tight and no longer have the power loss. In fact I have quite good gains from it not svt good but better than stock and the curly fry looking ones. Ifor one think done right like I did the second time >_< it's not bad at all for ebay stuff. If you or anyone else uses them again get the felpro gasket an be sure to remove both the exhaust mount off the engine to make a flush fit.
Let a muffler shop make the connection if you need something made that is working , I am not sure what the problem is maybe elaborate more or give me a call , you made the right choice with going 3 inch
holy brought back from the dead hahaha yea i have pictures on another thread that im sure is dead as well. its hard to keep up on some many threads at once, that i let some die for a reason...nobody cares []
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Focus Fanatics Forum
5.8M posts
189.1K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Focus owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about SVT performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!