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Old 03-23-2013, 04:14 PM   #11
jrbamc
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Update.

Unplugged pigtail from the IAC. Taped the pigtail/plug end up onto the air intake tube for access. Inserted the meter probes into the end, red on grn/y(+) and black on blk/y(-). Nothing. Had my son turn ign key to 1st click. Nothing. Turn key to 2nd click (power on). Got 12 volts on the meter, so the IAC plug is getting power. So the hot side is probably not the problem.

Ok. Big plug just below/behind the throttle body, unplug that, dirty, spray a a little cleaner in both ends and let dry. There are two blk/y wires going into the male end. So I set the meter on continuity and probe the IAC plug ground side and each of the two prongs matching where the blk/y wires are, on one I get good continuity. So that blk/y wire is ok between the IAC plug and that connector. Reconnect that plug.

Ok. So I have the IAC I took out last week. I snap it into the taped IAC plug and get my son to try the key again. I am looking into the two holes of the IAC.

1st click, 2nd click, turn on the engine, give a little gas to keep the idle up, I'm thinking I should see the inside of the IAC move or something at some point, the motor shaft in there and/or the black valve thingy. Nothing moves at all.

Normal, or proof that the IAC is not getting signals from the PCM up the blk/y to the IAC?

I took the little kick plate off of the lower right front passenger side under the dash next to the door, lots of wires, don't see a PCM, so now not sure where the other end of my blk/y would be.

Please advise, and continued thanks.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:21 PM   #12
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You won't see the IAC move when applying power. (engine vacuum moves the part you can see)

If you heard the click, you're good.

Test the resistance across the contacts of the IAC.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:23 AM   #13
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I have tested the resistance on this particular IAC (see upthread) and it seemed ok. Now... the click... explain... I did not hear a click at all when the key was in 2nd position and power should have been going into this IAC.

Would I hear a click if the blk/y (see upthread) is bad somewhere between the IAC and the PCM?

I unplugged that IAC and reattached the IAC plug to the IAC that is attached to the manifold, and then restarted the car. It ran bad like one of the cylinders was misfiring. OK, so now I made things worse somehow.

Turned it off in disgust and let it sit, then 10 minutes later restarted and it ran smooth. So I drove it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes or so, no check engine light, smooth running, and it idles just like it should. Back home and turned it off. Restarted and it idles good. No CEL.

Plan is to try to find a shop open tomorrow (Sunday) to do an emissions test ASAP as close to my house as possible, or not drive it at all Sunday and do it 1st thing Monday am. If it passes then I can get my tag and be less wary of getting pulled over by the coppers. Then if the problem comes back I will have more time to work out what the real issues are.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:44 AM   #14
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The clicking is the solenoid part of the IAC moving.

I figured out how they work here: (post 6, read whole thread if you want)

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307290
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:52 AM   #15
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Ok, so would I get a click if the ground side (black/yellow wire) that runs from the IAC to the PCM has a break/gap in it?

I've got the dreaded P1504, which after reading many threads, seems no one has posted a fix for this particular issue IF the IAC itself is ok.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:55 AM   #16
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You only get the click with a complete circuit.

A broken wire wouldn't complete the circuit.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:25 AM   #17
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Lets refocus so to speak to where I was yesterday, tracing a diagnostic path from the IAC back into the harness, per my prior posts.

The blk/yllw wire has good continuity from the IAC plug to the male side of the big plug behind/below and/or to the passngr side of the throttle body. Unplugged that connector, tested the wire, cleaned the two sides, and plugged back together. So if I get the P1504 again, it (the mysterious break) should be between that big plug and the PCM end of the blk/yllw wire path.

Are you following me?

So, where is that other end?
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrbamc View Post
So, where is that other end?
Pic of PCM location in this thread: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302278
Disconnect the battery and PCM connector and check for continuity between the connector pin corresponding to PCM pin 83.
Sample pin out diagram below:

Partial wiring schematic for 2000 model year:
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:55 AM   #19
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So Sunday I didn't drive the car at all, Monday I drove to the nearest emissions testing spot first thing and crossed my fingers and toes and whatever else could be crossed and it made it over there without the CEL coming on. Passed the test, so hooray for that little bit of good news. Getting my tag tomorrow, only a few days late.

So what got fixed? I'm not sure.

Maybe just pulling that plug apart and cleaning it good cleared some gunk off the IAC wire pin, or just plugging and unplugging it got down to some bare metal again, who knows. At this point the car idles like it is supposed to and I can cut back on my gas consumption and stop losing hair over getting pulled over for an expired registration.

I can't claim to have actually fixed anything, but we are back on the road until something else needs attention.

I do owe HUGE thanks for those who responded to my posts and provided answers and clues and helped me work through this. I will keep coming here as the first and best place to find answers.
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