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Drag race the ATX with Nitrous?! HELP?!

4K views 29 replies 10 participants last post by  MightyMouse 
#1 ·
So I bought a Nitrous kit as some of you may know already. This question is for the guys/gals that are drag racing their atx with nitrous?

What to do about the vicious wheel spin until I can buy drag radials?

Any tips on getting down the track the fastest are what I'm looking for, ie. smaller pill set up, larger pill but only spray in __ gears, etc., etc..

Thanks in advance!

BTW, I am currently running a ZEX TPS switch but I also have a ZEX traction control switch to hook up still. When I tried to hook them both up it wouldn't work, did one default the other? The problem is I am waiting for a MSD tach driver so I can hook up the window switch portion and set the proper rpm's as I currently have no way of hooking up the rpm sensor wire to tell the switch when to open accuratly and when to close.
 
#2 ·
You could get a track-only tune that doesnt let the trans shift until 5500rpm or so in each gear... cuz those bouts from 1st to 3rd due to wheelspin are no fun when the clock is ticking [?|]

I believe its as simple as changing the minimum shift mph in the shift schedule.
 
#9 ·
You could get a track-only tune that doesnt let the trans shift until 5500rpm or so in each gear... cuz those bouts from 1st to 3rd due to wheelspin are no fun when the clock is ticking [?|]

I believe its as simple as changing the minimum shift mph in the shift schedule.
I am considering a tune, some drag radials and other things. My question is in what order should I do them to be able to continue to race while modding. Also my current tune shifts at 7250 @ WOT unless you feather the pedal to force the shift or are manually shifting the gears yourself.
 
#3 ·
well i can give you some advice.. first off don't spray off the line. hit it about mid track you don't have a drag car per say the only time nitrous is good off the line is when you are running slicks. i would also be careful putting slicks on your focus with out changing out the Differential. could snap the one you got on it... if you are having trubble getting traction try heating your tires in the water trap if they will let you or bring a portable torch with you but if you go that rout be careful of that don't want to blow out your tire.lol the goal is to heat your tires up so they kinda melt a little so you will get better traction. but no need to lower the amount of nitrous you are using just don't spray off the ling and you should be gold.
 
#10 ·
well i can give you some advice.. first off don't spray off the line. hit it about mid track I currently hit the switch at about 3500 in second gear you don't have a drag car per say the only time nitrous is good off the line is when you are running slicks. i would also be careful putting slicks on your focus with out changing out the Differential. could snap the one you got on it...How does this happen? if you are having trubble getting traction try heating your tires in the water trap if they will let you they let me but I have always found I can chirp them pretty good just to clean the dirt and dust off and get em' a little warmer and run quicker from the gate. The box sprays water up into the wheel wells that drips back down at the line causing excess spin or bring a portable torch with you but if you go that rout be careful of that don't want to blow out your tire.lol the goal is to heat your tires up so they kinda melt a little so you will get better traction. but no need to lower the amount of nitrous you are using just don't spray off the ling and you should be gold.
Thanks, I have a window switch I need to wire in soon, hope that helps
 
#4 ·
Well tonight are the races so wish me luck. I won't spray first cause a couple people have said that so far in other threads. Man I wish I had a few more replies from other Nitrous racers.
Oh well..
 
#5 ·
can you not spray in first billy?

that would be my best guess...cuz if you wait til the middle or end of first to start spraying you might eliminate some
 
#8 ·
can you not spray in first billy?

that would be my best guess...cuz if you wait til the middle or end of first to start spraying you might eliminate some
I let the car shit itself with the O/D off aand due to the TPS switch when it shifts the voltage drops so it doesn't spray. Now I can leave the toggle off, run 1st, 2cnd up to about 3300-3500 rpm and THEN stand on it and throw the switch. However this gets me HUGE amounts of torque steer and I pee myself from the jolt up my spine.[burnout]
I have a ZEX traction control/window switch that will let me set the rpm to start spraying at as well as when to shut off. What I'm looking to get is the one that will stagger the spray and ramp it according to rpm's, thats the shizzle in my I's!! [deviltail]
 
#6 ·
for a 5 speed it's simple, always purge at the light next, unless you can redline launch and not spin the tires NO N2O in first, secound gear is debatable it all depends on how many RPMs you have left in that gear after you shift. The idle spot would be bottom of third as soon as the RPMs start climbin steady spray it till just before redlne. shift reapeat

High oct gas will help too, say 100oct.

yes Billy I know I dont have spray on my Fofo, but my truck used to and it was a 5spd Auto.

oh yeah Drag radials will help but if your just gonna use them for the 1/4 mile track just get some slicks, small light wieght rims and upgrade the halfshafts.
Also not all drag racers LAUNCH there car, becasue they say it too hard on the car. So E/T is good but getting down the track afterward is still requiered. LOL

See ya tonight dude, oh and I wanna drive it LOL
 
#7 ·
^^^ all proven correct tonight except I can spray in second gear at the low to middle of the torque band and only spin a little bit. I'm thinking if I use the 75 I could wait a tick longer, more toward the middle'ish area and have no problem. Last time I tried though I spun them at about a 40 roll when it hit. Need to wait till closer to 45-50ish and the hammer in the 75 or the 100 shot till the beams.
 
#11 ·
What I meant by changing the shift point in the tune was, if you set it so that it will not shift before 5500 or so, then you wont have problems with it going into another gear because of wheelspin.
 
#12 ·
it shifts way after^^^ you said "so it won't shift before 5500 rpm, it doesn't now, it shifts at 7250, the N2O won't spray during gear changes with an auto then it sprays again as soon as the gear is engaged and then I get wheel spin at the begining of the gear.
 
#13 ·
ah ok i must have misunderstood something, I thought you said you were having problems with it going into 3rd because the wheels are spinning too much, simple solution is raise the shift point.
 
#17 ·
ZEX.COM its a universal wet kit I believe, the bottle warmer, and window switch are extras. The TPS switch will come with your system, it activates the N2O as WOT ONLY! So you can run it and throw the switch, as long as the pedal is to the floor it will spray instantly and click woosh vvroomm your gone. or for noramal street you can just set it to go aat wot and you'll learn your power band real well so it only sprays when you want it. Its a tru WOT sensor in the fact it has to be to the floor and then some.
 
#18 ·
The window switch lets you select a rpm band that it will activate at as well as end at. You can also buy a progressive (the shizzle) switch that pulses the spray according to rpms and will ramp your N2O spray with the rpms, and that is PRO style baby!!!
 
#19 ·
Billy, I'm jealous. But I will be getting nitrous.. sometime this summer. [}:)]

I've been doing a little bit of reading on nitrous, switches, etc. Came up with the info that 2500-3k rpms is good place to start the spray, and about 500rpms before your shift point is a good place to turn it off. I'll try to find the source of that info for you.

So you can run it and throw the switch, as long as the pedal is to the floor it will spray instantly and click woosh vvroomm your gone.
Yes, that's in the plans as well. Too easy.

How much have you dropped in total on your nitrous setup? You consider it money well spent?

**looks up progressive switches**
 
#20 ·
Very well spent. Before I was a mid to low 17's car, now I'm mid to low fifteens and the window switch should drop another half to 3/4 second cause I can put it to the ground now.

Total cost is at about 600 so far not counting filling the bottle twice.

I look forward to the 75 or 100 shot the zex rep suggested next track day now that I have the traction control hooked up
 
#24 ·
haha.. Billy needs to do another nitrous sticky.

And I have yet another question. You probably don't want the nitrous in first gear, but if you have the window switch set to go at 3k rpms, how would you get it to not spray?. Only way I can think of is not having it at WOT.. but that would obviously mean your not pushing your engine as hard as you could. Is there any other way?

And BOOSTA, I believe he has intake/exhaust and answer your second question, yes, as long as you have it at WOT.
 
#25 ·
akmer, I went from a 17.5 car to a low 15's car with out the traction control switch installed, just using the TPS (throttle position sensor) and my foot. The ZEX rep said another .5 seconds should be reachable with the traction control switch in.

Boosta, I have a modified version of the stealth intake, and a custom exhaust. With the window switch in I am spraying first gear now as I was NOT before. When going down the track with just the TPS switch installed I would launch, count to two and spray, a heela wheels spin would occur all the way into the middle of second gear, then it would grab and I'm gone!! Now with the TCS switch in I have set it to spray in every gear, from 3100 rpm to 7100 rpm. I have yet to go back to the track with the new switch in but I can tell you I have minimal wheel spin now and that car is fo sho faster than last track day which my best run was a 14.91, my top speed so far in the 1/4 has been 99 mph! Almost a 100 but not quite. With the window switch you can pick how many times the unit has to pass the cut off rpm point before it engages, essentially you can skip gears if you want. Like if you had a turbo and only wanted N2O to spray in the very begining for a brief second to eliminate the "lag" you could easily do that.
 
#28 ·
ok, to clarify for every one.

When you install a TPS (throttle position senor) switch it detects the amount of voltage going through the out put of the pedal sensor to the ecu to tell everything else what to do ie, shifting pressures, fuel regulators, etc. So you driving, just chill. A V8 stang rolls on you at the light and rev's ya. Go time. Two options here
a- green light, you floor it then manually throw the switch to activate the nitrous oxide and woosh your out.
b- you turn the switch on now, then light goes green. You take off and feather the pedal over about a two second time span to get into higher rpms, then stomp it to the floor, whoosh your gone.

The traction control switch is the best of both worlds. It won't activate unless you stomp it, but it takes a second or two for the rpm's to get to where ever you set it, which you control when it starts to spray and when it stops, but NO MATTER WHAT IT WILL NOT SPRAY DURING A SHIFT!!
 
#29 ·
What if your pedal doesnt go all the way to the floor?? (Aftermarket pedals??)
 
#30 ·
It will still learn it. You push a button get in the car push the pedal all the way down and after a certain amount of time it reads the voltage and saves it. After that whenever it reads that voltage again it activates the solenoids and bam instant power.
 
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