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finally starting my journey to 450whp

64K views 686 replies 26 participants last post by  focusmaniaczx3 
#1 ·
EDIT: im editing this to give a quick hopefully short summary of what i want out of this thread. i would like some help finding some things and maybe learn some things.
i would like to locate a billet oil pump gear for high revs like what CFM had. unfortunately CFM no longer sells those. if you have a lead please tell me
cheap vband waste gates around 46mm.
somebody should sponsor me since im going to be at the track alot! that means give me $$$!!!! lol joking?
im getting the borgwarner/bullseye s258 unless you know of something better
i need intake manifold options other than topspeed. i dont like theirs.
what EXACTLY do i need for a return fuel system? cheapest way to do it? i know very little about this other than that it needs to be done.
help me with pick out a clutch. i want to spend under $700 for one to hold 450whp/tq every day and maybe 50-75 dyno pulls ONLY (no track or street) at 600whp during its life. no twin disk unless it can last for at least 25k-30k miles.
teach me about anti-lag. ya know? shooting massive fireballs out the tail pipe and making lots of racket. can it be done with the focus?
help me hook up (traction)
help me locate wheels that look like SVT 5 spokes but are at least 8 inches wide or wider that will fit under rolled/slightly flared fenders without rubbing when turning. a rub when bottoming out the suspension is completely acceptable.

now you can read the rest of the post if you want. i think its funny because i typed it up while jacked up out of my gord on sleeping pills and nyquil and i will ramble horribly when i get on here in that state.


well i always like getting input. i have a thread basically asking how to get to 450whp. i know how now and im going for it and i will be at least part of the way there in about a month or two, God willing. this thread will serve as a bit of a documentary i guess. im going to take lots and lots of before and after pics and ill see if some can maybe get snapped during the process as well. unfortunately i wont be present for the build since this is being done a few states away.

a certain somebody is going to have possession of my car for a little while to fabricate a brand new type of turbo kit for the zetec and duratec focus. in the process he is going to do a complete rebuild for me to get the engine in shape to handle the power. at the very least i will be sitting on between 300 and 330whp when he is done.

the main issue is going to be coming up with all the $$$ i need between now and then. which is why i am now accepting all donations! im just joking about donations unless you just feel compelled to give your money away or you want to sponsor me. i have no problem with putting a few bigass stickers on my car for some help getting this thing done. it WILL be at the track quite a bit..... just saying. anyhow back to serious stuff.

im going to need a bigger turbo than the turbonetics super60 that i currently have which will set me back quite a bit along with a return fuel system. i am also in a fuzz over the intake manifold. sorry but i just dont like topspeed's manifold. they are overpriced and i dont like the idea of a partially plastic manifold under high boost. that being said i know the stock manifold can take over 400whp/tq worth of boost so i might stick with it until/if it busts.

for turbo, i am currently leaning in the direction of the bullseye s256 or s258. or call it a borg warner [eek] unless someone has a cheaper turbo that can make the same power and be as reliable. i still want to crest 600whp on race gas occasionally hence the need/want for such a big one. that might run be around $1300.

im still open to any and all suggestions for what clutch to run. i DO NOT want to spend $1200 for the twin disk clutchmasters unless somebody can prove to me beyond a shadow of a doubt that im going to be able to squeeze at least 25k miles out of it. i know im about to spend a crap ton of money but it doesnt make me any less cheap. i want to get a lot of mileage out of this thing if at all possible. if i can find a $500 ish clutch that will hold 450whp/tq on a day to day basis and MIGHT hold 600ishwhp on a dyno once or twice every few months that would be preferred. for the record i have been known to dream from time to time.

open for input on BOV and WG too. im going to try the greddy type RS BOV and see if it works out for now since i already have it. ill probably buy a precision 46mm vband waste gate unless somebody knows of a vband WG that will do the job for cheaper. im looking at $315 for the WG just FYI.

i have not got a clue in the world what intercooler is being used. i am quite curious about that since unless im mistaken the master fabricator doing all of this wonderfulness is providing it.

the rest is pretty standard stuff. eagle rods, supertech pistons 8:7:1 compression i think with a big overbore to make sure the block is ship shape. i look at it like this. you may say that i shouldnt bore the block out all the way because i wont be able to bore it out any more in the future if it needs to be cleaned up for any reason. well i say that if something happens where i need to get the block cleaned up again then picking up another junk yard block for $100 wont be an issue. ill be using all arp fasteners obviously, stock head unless the machine shop that is going to get my head and block cleaned up can do some P&P and a 3/5 angle for a little extra. the head will get a rebuild, new timing set, water pump, every gasket will get replaced.

unfortunately i will NOT be using the c-f-m oil pump since they dont have any more and i seriously doubt i will stumble across one in the next month. but if somebody somehow has a lead on one of those boogers then for goodness sake please tell me! i want it bad!

i already have a torsen LSD. really wish i would have spent the extra coin at the time and had a quaife installed instead but oh well. we will see if it holds, i plan on running slicks. [shameful]

and speaking of track stuff. anti-lag... anybody have anything to say about that? the whole deal where you stick the car in gear, clutch pedal to the floor, mash the gas pedal to the floor, make lots of racket, shoot flames out the tail pipe, build boost, and then take off like a bat out of hell. whats up with that? can we even do that with a zetec? if so then how? i dont even think i know for sure how its supposed to work.

im also open for suggestions on techniques for hooking up. i think there's going to be lots of spinning in my future but i would at least like to try and cut back on wheel hop if at all possible. what can i do for that?

and this car isnt going to be a super comfy really quick daily driver im afraid. im going to gut it. sorry but i have the SVT to be comfortable in. the only things staying in the interior will be the dash, maybe center console, racing seat for driver, stock seat on the passenger side only for when someone wants a ride along, the radio, 2 front door speakers, and i might even go wild and run a infinity minisub in the back. what? i like my tunes! and any interior braces i can find to stiffen the car up without going to a roll cage unless i can find one that i dont have to climb through to get into the car. ill probably even remove the roof liner.

dont know for sure what wheels and tires im going to run yet but the ugly boogers i have now just aint gonna happen. 17x7 wont help either. what i would REALLY like to do would be to find some 5 spoke SVT wheels to run in back and some 5 spoke 17/16x8 SVT replica wheels with a 40-45 et on radials up front. i found some 16x8 svt cobra replicas but the only offset available is 15 and 25 that i could find and i dont like that look. they need to be tucked. i refuse to have tires bugging out of the fenderwells looking like a [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] unless im running slicks at the track. if anyone has a lead on anything like what im looking for please let me know. otherwise i might just run some team dynamics 17x8's or wider if i can get them to fit well if i cant find some SVT 5 spoke style wheels like i want. either way i guess i need to get a front wheel off and take measurements to see what is the absolute widest tire i can run and tuck with some mild fender rolling/flaring without rubbing the shock in the front. im going to need the traction!

as far as appearances go im going to put the car in black primer sometime before i take it down and i may leave it that way. i like flat black. it will either be flat black or factory red. im going to stick with the roush front bumper, cobra style hood, and roush back bumper. i dont know about the wings west side skirts, those might have to go but we will see. im also sticking with the roush top wing. i will never run a mid-wing again though. been there, done that, thought it looked stupid. i may change out headlights and tail lights at some point if i cant stand not fiddling with it in the coming months. it might make me nuts just being "done" with my little zx3. ive always been fiddling with it but after i hit my power goal i dont think there is much of anything else for me to do other than get rid of the MTX for a lentech ATX, get a much bigger turbo and shoot for tom's old drag car record. but that would pretty much turn it into a track only car at that point so i dont know if that will ever happen or not. we will just have to wait and see if guess. only time will tell. i will update as things progress, this should be pretty epic you guys! especially when this thing is done and you see pictures of my car before hand so you can see what i started with, how far it fell, and then how far it came thanks to a guy in alabama. and in case you are wondering i have been mysterious about this man's identity for a reason. i dont know if he is ready to step into the light just yet or not but im sure if he is he will pop in here with a few words after he spends the next month reading this book i just wrote.

and on that note let me finish this epic post with this... i really gotta stop getting on this forum after work in the mornings AFTER downing 2 shots of nyquil and sleeping pills. unfortunately if i didnt do it then i would never have time to get on here. wish me luck gentlemen, the race is on!







[hatchet]
 
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#122 ·
i did mention your name jim. but im not copying your design, topspeed also has a top mount, along with a billion civics, and my v8 focus lol. there are only so many ways you can make a topmount that isnt a log manifold. i plan on making the runners on mine shorter and mounting the wg different. we will see after i get the car how it turns out.

eta on the car is up to the guy that is bringing the car. should be about a month

Tim
 
#124 ·
jm had a gt3582r on his car. the car in the pic is a guy in GA that he built the kit for.

also jim didn't mean for my mentioning of starting to build kits or top mount manifolds to bother you. i consider us friends. i have always liked your work and admired your job getting to work with and build cars like you do. im just trying to get my self started in the business as well. if any one says my stuff is pretty enough for what i charge or if they want an intake manifold i'll make sure to send them your way.

some of my shed 10 304ss


Tim
 
#125 ·
jm had a gt3582r on his car. the car in the pic is a guy in GA that he built the kit for.

also jim didn't mean for my mentioning starting to build kits or top mount manifolds to bother you. i consider us friends. i have always liked your worked and admired your job getting to work with and build cars like you do. im just trying to get my self started in the business as well. if any one says my stuff is pretty enough for what i charge i'll make sure to send them your way.

Tim
wasnt meant to be directed at you, even tho is seems like it after reading lol but i think once you get in there its more cramped then you think :) ill post up a couple more topmounts ive built later.
 
#128 ·
yeah i know what the room is like. ive had a turbo top mount focus before to. even though it was a log i remember how close it was. esp for that cooling hose and thermostat outlet with a 50 trim
 
#129 ·
gas was set to about 12lph if i remember correctly. its a no7 gas lens. 316L 1/16 filler.

i did not use any back purge on that piece b/c i havent got my tee or other regulator in yet. just ordered it.

and shake'n like a dog shit'n peach seeds cause i drink to many monsters lmao
 
#130 ·
need to go up to about 17-20 #7 isnt bad. when doing 304 try for a 308rod
 
#131 ·
i had some 309 3/32 and it was to thick. i couldnt get it to work properly. i have no trouble welding with 3/32 aluminum filler but the stainless just wasnt working. the 1/16 was very easy to use. i just got the 316 cause it was what was in stock and didnt cost but .40 cents a lb more. i'll crank up the gas some more and see how it does. im not really going for the pretty blue and purple for looks. as long as the weld is strong and penetration is consistent thats what im concerned with. my customer base is mainly going to be people who cant afford most kits and fancy pretty stuff with 321 stainless that costs $110 per bend

are you using one of those large pyrex cups?

walker does. his work is so pretty but much more costly than i ever plan to charge, although doing this does cost a lot of money for him. thats probably a whole tank of argon just to weld this manifold

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/68398_432243920176885_1336685285_n.jpg
 
#132 ·
i had some 309 3/32 and it was to thick. i couldnt get it to work properly. i have no trouble welding with 3/32 aluminum filler but the stainless just wasnt working. the 1/16 was very easy to use. i just got the 316 cause it was what was in stock and didnt cost but .40 cents a lb more. i'll crank up the gas some more and see how it does. im not really going for the pretty blue and purple for looks. as long as the weld is strong and penetration is consistent thats what im concerned with. my customer base is mainly going to be people who cant afford most kits and fancy pretty stuff with 321 stainless that costs $110 per bend

are you using one of those large pyrex cups?
yea 3/32 for stainless is huge lol. i dont use pyrex cups i use regular #8 and #10 lens.
 
#133 ·
#141 ·
supertech .028" overbore (85.5mm) 8.7:1 compression ratio pistons.
Clevite CB1774A Rod Bearings
Clevite MS2208A Main Bearings

To say you some money you don't need the precision 46mm waste gate. The 39mm will work just fine.
if i go for 600 on boost alone this wont do it. however if i just spray the difference it should be fine. which is what ill probably end up doing.

the option for my manifold will be either 38/39 or 44/46 so which ever he chooses is fine with me. but for making 600 he cant go wrong with a 46
probably gonna go with a 39. will it hurt anything to go with a 44mm WG and with a turbo that is JUST big enough to get me to 450 on boost alone, or maybe 500 if i push it? because i am thinking really hard about just spraying to make up the difference on those rare occasions.

He WILL need a 44/46mm
only if i go for 600 on boost alone right? i wont still need it if i spray will i?

Since you said he will be running 600hp, on which dyno. Mustang dyno or dynojet. There's a HUGE difference between both of them.
i would like to get there on a mustang dyno just because i know they read lower than the dynojets.
 
#138 ·
the option for my manifold will be either 38/39 or 44/46 so which ever he chooses is fine with me. but for making 600 he cant go wrong with a 46
 
#142 ·
oh shit i just cancelled the order on the bearings. they didnt make it to shipping yet so its all good. but i have several difference sizes available for bearings. what should i run with? i need to quit ordering stuff in the sleep hours of the early mornings.
 
#143 ·
44/46mm is for the lower boost levels. the lower the boost the more waste gate you need. so yes you will need on or it will creep boost like chris car.
 
#144 ·
also do it on a dynojet. you can make a mustang dyno read hi or low, all depends on the operator
 
#153 ·
on your car if you truly want to go to 600hp you will need to run a 44/46. a 38/39 will do 450 just fine. but even if you are spraying not boosting up to 600whp then you are still moving more air. the purpose of the larger wg is to allow more ex to pass the turbo. if your running boost and spray with out enough wg then your boost will start to raise no matter what boost is set to when you spray it. if your running a turbo big enough to make 450whp then you dont have to worry about a 44/46 being to big.

as far as the surge tank goes. i dont see you needing to run a larger pump in the stock tank. you can just set it to a full on relay instead of variable. with running a full return set up your still having to run lines and put fittings in so that isnt raising the price any. i think the cost would be close to the same on the two set ups but the surge tank will just allow stock fuel gauge and gets rid of the problems associated with using stock tank for return and would be safer than putting a cell in the passenger compartment.

Tim
 
#154 ·
Ok thanks guys! Keep the info coming! This is a tremendous help! What is your opinion on what size bearings I should run? I cancelled mt order when I saw how widely they varied. Oem 25mm 50mm and 75mm on rod and main bearings
 
#156 ·
So if I have never had a spun bearing, and currently have no bearing noise that would suggest a spun bearing I should be ok with oem? Or should I wait to place the order until after the engine is torn down to see what I need for sure? I can place an order and they should arrive in a week or so unless autozone has what I need
 
#157 ·
the correct way would be to tear down the engine and mic the crank and caps to figure out what size bearings you need.
 
#158 ·
go ahead and order std. since you are running the engine now and know it is in good shape there should be no problem with std size. if i find any problem i will let you know and we can decide then to either get a new crank or resurface and over size bearings. probably end up with me at pull a part getting a good one if there is a problem with yours.

Tim
 
#159 ·
right with jim I was going to order race bearings back during my build but my crank and caps were really good condition still so there was no need. and you would need to mic the crank anyawys so std is your easiest and best bet. and real cheap
 
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