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Old 01-12-2014, 05:58 PM   #21
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Set the amp gains correctly as ferret says.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:22 PM   #22
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Even with the gain set at less than half way, it still cuts out.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:34 PM   #23
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What kind of amp? Because if all connections are good, ground is to the chassis, gain and bass boost are turned down, subs are wired correctly, sounds like the amp is going into protection mode and could be toast...
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:36 PM   #24
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Where is the amp grounded? What size are the power and ground wires? Are the wires crimped? Solidly?

Do you have access to another amp?
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #25
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The amp is grounded to the side of the trunk wall, underneath the carpet/ trunk bottom. The ground wire is 4 ga. And it's only about 16 inches long. It's not loose, it is a self tapping screw though, but it's tight, doesn't wiggle. The power wire is 4 ga. As well.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:22 PM   #26
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The amp is a pioneer GM-D9601
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:56 PM   #27
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The fuses on your amp add up to 120amps, your pushing 800rms worth of subs... and you have 4 guage wire. You NEED bigger wire, 2guage might work better but just get the 0/1 gauge and be done with it. Which was the first thing I said. Now yes I know 4 guage is like the bare minimum, but when you do this and use what I assume might be wire its going to get hot and you lose some voltage. That is probably why its cutting out in the first place.
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:23 PM   #28
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Ferret, hey that's a simple place to start, I can do a wire swap, no big deal. So both power and ground wires for the amp need to be larger, correct?
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:38 PM   #29
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Ground it to the seatbelt bolt or, to the bracket that the spare tire bolts to. Make sure that any grounding point is sanded down bare metal.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:23 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno101 View Post
Ferret, hey that's a simple place to start, I can do a wire swap, no big deal. So both power and ground wires for the amp need to be larger, correct?
That is correct, should be this simple.

get some high strand, tinned copper is best for car audio application. KnuKonceptz is a good example of quality car audio wire, but 0/1 gauge is like $5/foot, if that is too much people have been using similar marine,rv and welding cables that are typically cheaper, but harder to work with. The "oxygen free" doesn't always mean its tinned, if you get just normal copper (non tinned) keep in mind it corrodes (turns green) which at some point makes the wire useless.


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Ground it to the seatbelt bolt or, to the bracket that the spare tire bolts to. Make sure that any grounding point is sanded down bare metal.
Always a safe route to take to be sure your system is 100% grounded to your chassis. I typically just look for unpainted bolts and threads, which is all bare metal without having to sand the paint off. I'm not sure how the seat belt points look but i've been using the rear seat mounting hole for years and they work great. Sometimes I clean out the the threads with my dremel wire wheel, but its very noninvasive. Right now my 900watt class D 5channel is happy with that this time around.
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