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JRSC install

18K views 113 replies 21 participants last post by  xy0s08 
#1 ·
I have finally pieced together all the brackets for my JRSC and i am planning on starting the install today. the only thing that i am missing from the kit is the hardware.. am i going to run into an issue of not having bots, nuts, vacuum hoses.. ect.. when i start installing it?
 
#2 ·
I was missing alot of bolts and some hoses but managed to find most of them at lowes and home depot for the nuts and blots and autozone/advanced auto parts for most of the hoses. If you do enough looking im pretty sure you can find most of the hardware. Good luck with the install. Just finished mine a couple months ago!
 
#3 ·
awesome thanks for the help.. did you reused the studs that attach the SC to the head or did you need longer bolts?

Just trying to figure all this out before i start because i dont live near any hardware store or anything and i dont want to make a million trips into town.
 
#4 ·
There were only 2 studs coming out of the block that attached to the jrsc manifold. They were the two most outside holes. I had to buy bolts to fill up the rest of the holes. Remeber to tighten those suckers good. Mine is starting to leak someware and now its gonna be a pain in the ass to go back and tighten all the bolts again haha
 
#5 ·
alright cool. how was moving the PS reservoir? and was yours on a ZETEC?? I need to get a belt still but im not sure on the length
 
#6 ·
The PS reservoir was a pain in the ass. It was not that bad but it gets really messy. My kit didn't come with the bracket so it is zip tied to the frame. looks terrible but it gets the job done. I have an SVT so I think my length will be different. It should say on the last couple pages of the instructions what belt size you need for every application. just make sure you look to see if you have the new or old alternator bracket design and then it gives lengths for both belt sizes
 
#7 ·
I would try to find actual studs for mounting the manifold; I believe they are M8X1.25 40mm. Studs>bolts and your adding quite a bit more weight on there then the stock manifold.

The nuts, bolts and vac hoses aren't too bad to find. I got stuff between partsource and the bolt supply house.
 
#10 ·
I just got back from the parts store and i got some of the bolts on the parts list that is with the instructions and i got all new studs for the head and nuts.

anyone have any idea on what/how vacuum lines and fittings that you needed on the install?
 
#11 ·
The Vac isnt that difficult but it can be confusing to just read it.

I would grab a few feet of both 5/32" vac hose and 3/8" vac hose along with an assortment of fittings (elbows, T's etc) They usually come in variety packs. You can re-use some of the factory vac hoses as well. Zip ties around everything isnt a bad idea to avoid vac leaks.

Keep in mind the nipples on top of the blower only see vacuum, and the ports on the manifold see both boost and vac. The bypass valve, Fuel rail pressure sensor, powercard (if used) and boost gauge (if used) want to see both boost and vac, everything else only sees vac.
 
#13 ·
okay the install is going pretty well i am almost done i just have one question. on the SC intake manifold the is a black diaphram *spelling* that has a vacuum port and i am not sure where i am supposed to runt eh line to..

Also i am not sure where i am supposed to hook my boost gauge to..
anyone help??
 
#16 ·
okay i need everyone's help i can get!! I got my JRSC installed and everything was going good, i was doing a remote desktop with tom as we were working on my tune on Friday night. the only problem we were having was that the throttle was sticking. so we left it alone for the night and he sent me a new tune on Saturday morning and told me to do this "For the idle try this , unplug the air idle controle valve , start the car , set the idle screw on the TB to about 750 rpm , plug the idle air valve back in so i did. i also unplugged the TPS when i plugged them back in the car would no longer run at all.. the only way i could get the car started was to crank it and hold the throttle open then the car will start and idle at 2300 for approximately 5 seconds and then dies. it also is burning a lot of gas doing this i mean to the point where i pulled a spark plug and i could see all the smoke in the chamber from the gas.. i have gone over the whole install many times, i have checked the vacuum lines, electrical connections, and i have even replaced the TPS and it still will not run other then the 3 seconds with the throttle open.. i am in complete loss for what is going on. anyone have any idea????
 
#18 ·
i am in the process of replacing the IACV now. i think that might be the problem because the one i pulled off doesn't look like the new one. looks like it is stuck shut.
 
#19 ·
I replaced the IACV with the one that came off of the stock intake manifold and put it on the SC and it idled perfect for about 35 mins. then i shut the car off to change the tune to a drive tune and when i tried to start the car back up it wouldn't start again. i pulled the IACV back off and checked it out, it doesn't seem to be stuck shut like the other one was but maybe it is stuck open now.. i really don't know.. i am going to get a brand new IACV today and try that hopefully it will fix this problem,... sorry i couldn't make it to FF this weekend i had every intention of being there.
 
#20 ·
so as the car sits right now i bought a brand new IACV and it has been redesigned and the plug is now at a 90 degree angle and will not fit, so i went back to the parts store and took my stock IACV with me and one of the guys working said that the IACV off of a 1998 mustang and a ranger were the same as mine. so i got one and put it on with no success. any one have any other suggestions to what could be going on??
 
#21 ·
what does your IACV look like?

I have one that looks like this; it's essentially new


The portion that is circled is because I had IACV problems with my setup and that port was what was causing it. My car came with one that didn't have that port, once I switched over the problem went away.

another pic; The actual one i have......somewhere.
 
#23 ·
i have one that has that on there and the car ran fine when it was on there but after i shut it off the first time it wouldnt start back up

The IAC would not cause it to not start
Posted via FF Mobile
and the car will start it just will not stay running.
 
#25 ·
well what do you think it is?? I have replaced, TPS, IACV, 02 sensor, alt, tensionor, egr has been eliminated, and tom has done several remote tunes and cannot figure it out.
 
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