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Door Creak Dilemma

8K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  sailor 
#1 ·
I'll try to keep this short and sweet. My driver's door has made a metallic creaking noise when you open it. It isn't that loud, but it's pretty irritating on such a nice new car. I've had it in to be fixed a few times already (my car has been in the shop probably 10 times for warranty stuff over the past year), yet it is no better.

The dealer sent it over to the body shop, and apparently the problem is within the sheet metal that the door mount attaches to. The solution is basically to hack out that bit and weld new stuff in (in short). I think it's around a $3000 job to do, even.

I just can't seem to think that this is a good idea... Am I wrong to be hesitant? It seems like it would open the door to new problems and never be the same again. It's some pretty major surgery, to say the least. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

I almost feel like I should not have it done and see if Ford will somehow compensate a different way. What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
You lot are my second opinion! [grinking]

It is covered under warranty, but the issue is that the car won't be the same coming out the other end. They aren't just replacing a part, but sawing into the sheet metal and welding a new piece within it, repainting, etc. You'll be able to look at it and see the spot where it was reconstructed. Once you've spot welded new sheet metal in the door frame, it opens up potential for a world of new problems, such as door alignment issues.

That would have a much more serious affect on resale value than simply a creaking driver's door.
 
#5 ·
Maybe I am way off, but it seems like you can get an entirely new door for far less than $3000. If it's in the sheet metal itself, it sounds like a manufacturing defect. I'd make them replace it instead of trying to fix it.
EDIT: Wait a minute, just realized you said the door mount and not the door itself. Not sure what you mean by that. Like the hinge? Is that not removable with some bolts or something or is it welded on? My car is in the shop (again) at the moment so I can't go out and look at it. I can only hope my rattling dash issue that I will be bringing up to them when I get it back doesn't require something as crazy as that.
 
#6 ·
There are a few parts, but this one is where the connecting rod (which goes into the door and attached to the frame of the car). The bolts are all nice and snug, but the metal plate itself is creaking when the door is moved. It's tough to explain, but the idea is that it's a pretty serious reconstructive surgery, where it may never be the same again (and it will be visually obvious that something happened there).

I'm mostly worried about causing future issues with the door. I'd rather be compensated a different way than put my car through this. Not sure what to do though.
 
#7 ·
Why will it be visually obvious that something happened?

Have you not seen complete restoration of cars that are rust buckets? They look better than the day they left the showroom.

If the bodyshop knows what they are doing, you should not be able to tell anything was done.

I completely understand this is horrible to happen to a new car, and I would be furious too...but it can still come out well.
 
#8 ·
It could... But even people getting much more simple stuff replaced, such as the windshield, can lead to big headaches... This seems like one spot that could be delicate to work in, and introduce new problems. It would be visible; I have a feeling they wouldn't put quite the same attention to perfection as they would on an old restoration project. At least, they said it would be visually noticeable.
 
#9 ·
Visible my a$$. I'd make them damn well aware that if it's 'visible' that they're gonna work on it until it's NOT visible.

You didn't pay $20K+ to have a car with 'visible' defects straight from the factory. That is just total BS. I'd let them know that if they're not capable of fixing that car without 'visible' evidence of it being repaired to factory specs, that you expect them to find somebody that CAN repair it without 'visible' evidence. Either that or Ford is gonna buy it back and give you a car WITHOUT any visible defects, where the doors work properly and don't creak when they're opened like some 40 year old gm product.

They just don't want to do it .... and that's why they're trying to 'scare' you by saying that it will never be the same. If it's 'not the same', then they pay for it being not the same by buying it back or making it right.


REV
 
#10 ·
It isn't really them trying to scare me, I don't think. I was the one who brought up the concern about the severity of the operation. They were just going to do it, but needed me to consent to it since it isn't simply changing parts.

Thank you for your inputs [grinking]
 
#12 ·
If it bothers you (as it would me) ... I'd have them do it and then make them work on it until it was perfect if need be. You have every right to a car that works properly without any self inflicted visible defects.

Good luck and I hope they fix it for you perfectly the first time !

Also, as another poster mentioned ... I'd think they could replace the whole door frame (or whatever was needed) with all new parts far cheaper than doing the kind of 'surgery' they're talking about.

REV
 
#13 ·
My car has had the "exact" same problem since the day I took ownership of it back in July of 2011. The dealer told me there was nothing that could be done to fix it, so if indeed the problem has been identified as a manufacturing defect then the new car warranty would apply. I would be more concerned that if the door was replaced, the paint would not match the rest of the car!
 
#15 ·
...My driver's door has made a metallic creaking noise when you open it. It isn't that loud, but it's pretty irritating on such a nice new car. I've had it in to be fixed a few times already (my car has been in the shop probably 10 times for warranty stuff over the past year), yet it is no better.

The dealer sent it over to the body shop, and apparently the problem is within the sheet metal that the door mount attaches to. The solution is basically to hack out that bit and weld new stuff in (in short). I think it's around a $3000 job to do, even.

I just can't seem to think that this is a good idea... Am I wrong to be hesitant? It seems like it would open the door to new problems and never be the same again. It's some pretty major surgery, to say the least. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

I almost feel like I should not have it done and see if Ford will somehow compensate a different way...
...It is covered under warranty, but the issue is that the car won't be the same coming out the other end. They aren't just replacing a part, but sawing into the sheet metal and welding a new piece within it, repainting, etc. You'll be able to look at it and see the spot where it was reconstructed. Once you've spot welded new sheet metal in the door frame, it opens up potential for a world of new problems, such as door alignment issues...
My car has had the "exact" same problem since the day I took ownership of it back in July of 2011. The dealer told me there was nothing that could be done to fix it, so if indeed the problem has been identified as a manufacturing defect then the new car warranty would apply. I would be more concerned that if the door was replaced, the paint would not match the rest of the car!
You're welcome to get second opinions if you'd like. Please contact our Canadian Customer Relationship Centre at 800-565-3673 for further assistance. [thumb]

Wait what...this isn't covered under the warranty?

If it is...let them do it. Anything that goes wrong will be on them to fix.
Do not let them perform that kind of surgery. Get a second opinion!
Maybe I am way off, but it seems like you can get an entirely new door for far less than $3000. If it's in the sheet metal itself, it sounds like a manufacturing defect. I'd make them replace it instead of trying to fix it...
You need to take it to another dealer for a second opinion...
If it bothers you (as it would me) ... I'd have them do it and then make them work on it until it was perfect if need be. You have every right to a car that works properly without any self inflicted visible defects.

Good luck and I hope they fix it for you perfectly the first time!...
Thanks for jumping in and giving advice; you guys are awesome! [:D]

Thomas
 
#17 ·
My car has the same issue... after we replaced the door check and the noise was still there, tech found out the same things you guys have. No clue what the right thing to have done is.
 
#20 ·
Mine has also turned up with this problem. It reminds me of my wife's old 04 Neon. Try a wax based motorcycle chain lubricant. It's only a temporary fix, but should last quite a while.
 
#24 ·
I know this is an old post, but I had the exact same problem and I fixed it myself yesterday.

The creak comes from the sheet metal below the A-pillar, around the area where the black detent strut/bar whatever, is bolted to the sheet metal with the single Torx bolt. The strut itself does not cause the creak, it is actually the door hinges that cause the sheet metal to flex. There is another piece of sheet metal that is tack-welded behind the visible layer, where the black strut is attached.

The two layers of sheet metal are essentially rubbing against each other when the door is opened. The tack welds do a poor job of keeping a snug fit between the layers. I fixed the creaking in my door by doing the following.

Repair time: < one minute

Tools Required: One small rubber mallet/hammer (Do Not Use Metal or large Hammer!!)

Procedure: Identify the tack-welded area behind the black detent strut (where the strut meets the door frame).
Lightly tap small rubber mallet against the metal, approximately one cm above the strut mount bolt. Close and open the door to check for creaking. Repeat process until creaking is gone.

NOTE: Metal behind the strut mount point is extremely ductile (soft). Hitting it with the hammer, even lightly, will cause a small dent in the metal. This is necessary for eliminating the space (that causes the creaking) between the layers of sheet metal. A small dent will remain in the metal, however, the creaking will very likely cease, a fair trade off in my opinion.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for the possible outcome or consequences of attempting this procedure. Attempt at your own risk.
 
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