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My Eibach Sportline install(PIC HEAVY); SE sports hatch

78K views 206 replies 68 participants last post by  Juicedz 
#1 ·
Just posting the pics I took during my install. Before, after, and along the way. The fronts were a pain in the butt, mainly to get the shock out. The rears were easy.

Before:

My son wanted to be included.


Wheel gaps (before):
Front:


Rear:



Install pics:
Strut removed

Looks naked

I didn't have to remove the top
plastic cover to get to the top bolts.

Stock vs. Eibach size

The red has a nice look to it : )

A helpful tidbit which I wish I had known. The rear springs on our Focus' are too small for tool which I rented (for free) from a local auto parts store. The bolt is too long which causes the top of the bolt to bottom out prior to the spring being fully compressed. I "modified" a socket and used another handy tool to create a thick washer between the bottom plate and the end of the bolt. There may be a tool better suited for smaller cars, however, if you go my route and rent one, you'll have to do something similar. You can kind of see in the pic below.

Rears installed and looking sharp


Rear, stock vs Eibach

Dust boots, old vs new
 
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#94 ·
So BLarson, did you ever get this aligned? It sounds like you have put a ton of mileage on since you replaced the springs (more than the wear in anyway, 10k+), so do you have weird camber wear patterns?

I'm trying to decide if I should get it aligned with new MZ3 springs lowering an inch or so.
 
#95 ·
I went to get an alignment after driving on my Sportlines for a few weeks and they wouldn't get the rear into spec (can't rember the numbers exactly)
I installed SPC adjustable camber arms and then had a proper alignment done.
In other words, if you want your rear camber in Stock spec you will need adjustable camber arms
 
#98 ·
LOVE THE SPORTLINES. My girlfriend also likes it much then the stock ride and handling. Here are some pics.



Front gap



Parts used.
Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs (AutoAnything)
Eibach Pro-Alignment Kit(for rear negitive camber)(AutoAnything)
Eibach Rear swaybar (AutoAnything)
Whiteline Rear Sway bar end Links (Rebel Devil)
 
#99 ·
After 20k miles, I finally bought and installed my adjustable rear swing arms. I bought EIII USA RACING adjustable arms for $90 shipped off of eBay. The quality of the arms is superb.

The top is the EII USA arm and the bottom is the stock one.

The install was really easy.

I then finally took the car for an alignment. It was off but not by much at all. Here are the exact specs for you all.


I dove my car for 20k with no noticeable irregular wear on my tires. The wheel did not return to the zero position though when you let go of it. So can it be driven with just sportlines? Yes. Should it be? No. If you do it, do it right.

Springs=$200 shipped
Adjustable arms=$90 shipped
4 wheel alignment=$50
Total cost for a fantastic 1.5" drop and zero wheel gap=$340
 
#101 ·
I am pretty sure I also re-used my dust boot. As when the suspension was not under load the dust boot doesn't cover the gap in the shock. The new boot will effectively cover the shock once the suspension is loaded. However the old boot has not caused me any issues at all. If that is the only part they left than you'll be fine. If they left the bump stop or anything else, go back ASAP.
 
#112 ·
I installed sportlines this Friday and to say the least it will test your religion. A couple things I learned that might help someone. Make sure you pay attention to the position of spring and top bearing hat/cup thingy. I didn't pay attention and reassembled new spring finished drivers side and when I pulled the passenger side off I saw I assembled it wrong so I had to take the driver side back out and readjust. Take pictures for reference as you go along. On the rear go ahead and unbolt the sway bar from the cross member along with outside bolt on lower control arm, it makes things much easier. I also used a round flapper sandpaper wheel in my cordless drill to remove any rust and smooth surface along with white grease to help front struts go back in spindle much easier.
 
#117 ·
Question for OP
Just curious did you put the adjustable rear swing arms on then take it for alignment or did they put them on? My thought is since the camber on one side was out of range by .4 might have been from the arms and not the springs so just needing toe adjustments and not arms.
My experience with alignment is one dealer rebuilt front end then later centered steering wheel for drift at highway speeds. Didn't rotate tires for two oil changes 10k left rear tire feathered had alignment done at another dealer and toe was all over the place vibration gone too (they could not duplicate).

Your car looks great!!!

Can't wait to do my candy blue hatch and SGM sedan also had the striping like yours in mind on the SGM since a tile exploded on the highway and put deep scratches where your stripes are on hood. going black to blend in with the other black or gun metal gray and on the black plastic.
 
#118 ·
Thank you! I am really happy with how she looks right now. I get a lot of looks and complements which is nice.

Yes, I installed the adjustable camber arms first, and then took it in for an alignment. But when I removed the stock arms, I adjusted them to be the exact same length as stock. (Laid them on top of the stock arms with the bolts inserted and adjusted them until the bolts fit) So theoretically, when I put the adjustable arms in, it should have been very close, if not at the stock alignment. But either way, the stock alignment isn't that far off from stock with the sportlines. I went 20k miles with no noticeable irregular wear.

And smg would look great with those hood stripes!
 
#123 ·
I would say yes since there range is -1.00 degree to +1.00 degree and this car was off .4 degrees. What I will do is have it checked before since I have lifetime alignment 140.00 one time compared to 60.00 each time and with roads around here good deal since I plan on putting 500,000 miles on mine.
Arms are -1.5 degree to +5.0 degree needed if going lower or doing some track time.
 
#128 ·
Just got my Sportlines installed this past weekend as well. This thread was invaluable, though once into the operation I did things a liiiittle bit differently. Thanks for all the pictorials!

Anyway, I did the rear using a compressor made for McPherson style struts, U bolts on a long threaded rod, one per side. Worked ok, but space was tight. Use a jack under the control arm to compress the stock string, add compressors, release tension, unbolt lower from spindle, slowly lower to full swing, and out comes Mr. spring. In retrospect, CAKE. First time fighting with it... and second... and third... My arms got tired of trying to tighten, adjust, and readjust the compressors. Whew.

On to the front. The three top bolts were easy. Remove the Torx, the 13mm, and pop up the plastic cowling, 3/8ths rachet fits perfect, go to town. Underneath, my spindle didn't want to let go of the bottom of the strut. Easy fix: put in the 15mm bolt from the threaded side, and put the allen wrench you used to remove the tie rod as the pusher to spread that pinch ever so slightly. Careful though, don't do it too much. I did on the second arm and had to BFH the joint back together just a pinch so the threads lined up correctly again without forcing anything. ALWAYS FINGER TIGHTEN FASTENERS FIRST.

Final product:
The alignment guy even remarked that it didn't need an alignment, but it was enough to be considered out of spec. JUST BARELY though.





 
#149 ·
Just a quick question in need of a quick reply how did you get the lower part of the front strut out of the spindle?
Did you disconnect the entire control arm?
 
#160 ·
I pulled the lower bolt, then put a scraper in the clamping slot from the back and tightened it back down slightly to force the clamp apart. Strut came out/installed super easy with that, just make sure to get the bolt back in from the correct side after, and to get it in the keyway slot of the strut also.

I cannot recall exactly, but I think I had to put the bolt in from the opposite side of the C to give it threads to bolt into to push it apart. You'll understand when you get in there. Worked like a champ for me.
 
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