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Yet another SPI knocking -- Will Fix It!

52K views 140 replies 22 participants last post by  yosso 
#1 · (Edited)
[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] January 15, 2012 edit by LugNut: This thread has become popular, thanks! It was not intended as a how-to, but I bet you'll find it helpful if you are thinking of rebuilding your SPI. Much later in the thread, with the rebuild now done, I've added parts and tools lists as well as lots of pictures. But _do_ read through the entire thread from the start because you'll learn from my challenges, other member's helpful hints, and pick up many details that are not in the later lists or pictures. Enjoy the biting humor too, and be safe! [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]

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Newbie to the FF, but an old hand at repairing cars. Just acquired a 2001 P-code SE sedan from some nice folk. The engine suddenly developed a knock in their driveway at a startup, and the nonmechanical sellers said they hadn't driven it since. I've started the engine briefly twice now, and yes it knocks!

This forum was very useful in identifying the likely cause -- a dropped valve seat. Starting tomorrow or the day after, I will pull the head and see what's up. I'm prepared to pull the whole engine and go through it, if necessary. I see the rebuilt heads with new and improved seats on eBay.

Degreased the engine bay and underhood, as well as the outside of the body and wheels, this afternoon to get things rolling. Will be searching the site for y'alls wisdom, but please feel free to list applicable links here! [headbang]
 
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#132 ·
you'll know... its pretty bad. car can even stall out and not start if its warm.

good to hear it has been a great engine now so far.
 
#134 ·
it's not 'almost guaranteed', it is friggin guaranteed, better take care of this now, it will be cheaper than fixing blown engine, and you will drive car with confidence that it wont leave you stranded on the highway.


most of the times there is no symptoms to see that coming
 
#135 ·
Man mine just went out, wish I knew how to do these things the shop wants to charge me $1,400 to rebuild the engine its cheaper for me to just go buy a new car as the one I have right now needs a new paint job, electric work and who knows what else.
 
#136 ·
hey lugnut before installing new head i now i need to clean intake and egr tube you... only used soap and water on these? also gonna change piston and rod with motor still in being that i live in town house and dont have engine puller or stand will it be ok to do this?alreaady pulled head out... piston is fired!!! thanks
 
#137 ·
only used soap and water on these?
Laundry detergent, lots of hot water, various brushes, and a "slop sink". If really caked on, you'd want to use engine degreaser or TSP first (outdoors; runoff?).

I've heard of folk taking their parts to coin-op car washes! But I'd instead get the worst off myself, then go to a machine shop for "hot tanking" of the parts.

In the really old days we could use aggressive solvents. Or even TCE in a vapor hot tank, but TCE was now banned for good reason. It was great at cleaning mechanical parts, though!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichloroethylene
 
#139 ·
FYI -- This car may be up for sale soon. The drivers are "aging-out" rapidly. Engine sounding looser, and it needs a clutch yet again (due to poor driver operation). LMK if you are near N.E. KS and may be interested.
 
#141 ·
Thank you so much for the extremely helpful posts and writeup.

Based on your writeup I'm going to rebuild the motor in the transplant car in lieu of swapping the good motor from my daughter's wrecked Focus into the non-wrecked Focus with a bad head and motor.

Again appreciate all of your efforts creating the DIY guide.

M.
 
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