Focus Fanatics Forum banner

2012 Focus Hitch is available

106K views 222 replies 89 participants last post by  Ductape91 
#1 · (Edited)
UPDATE: UHaul probably did me a big favor. After sending me the wrong hitch twice, I've cancelled the order. I'm looking at the Hidden Hitch brand since it requires NO drilling and NO "reaming" with a die grinder of the Focus' frame. The Curt Hitch DOES require drilling two holes and reaming of your cars frame rail access hole. I just placed a phone order for the Hidden Hitch (part #24872) from etrailer.com for $159.00.

Product information page...
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1005&part=24872
Instructions for the Hidden Hitch...
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/content/downloads/installation/N60290.pdf

Hidden Hitch installed...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34042051@N06/5852711055/sizes/z/in/photostream/


2012 FOCUS...

Below is the actual product picture from Curt. www.curtmfg.com



Details and pictures here...
http://www.thehitchstore.com/images/documents/CM-11158-INS.pdf

Curt has the hitch for around 220.00 MSRP. Product # 11158 (129.00 street price)

UHaul sells the Curt hitch as their part #24857 branded UHaul for 149.00 (pdf installation instructions are dated 5/18/2011). Free shipping.


The main body of the hitch is hidden behind the rear fascia (very good).

I am wondering how this class of hitch holds up to a bike rack with two bikes. Does anyone have experience with class I hitches hauling bikes on a bike rack without additional stabilizing straps? The installation document I downloaded from UHaul says it voids the warranty if the Curt stabilizer strap part #18050 (available on Amazon) is not used.

Also, I'd like to here if anyone has had issues with Ford's warranty after installing a hitch. Ford doesn't rate the 2012 Focus for towing. I think previous years were rated for a small amount. A mechanic said they check to see if the car has trailer wiring installed to see if a person has been using the hitch for trailer towing. So, be aware of this if you're concerned about warranty compliance. Please reply if you have more info on this subject.

Thanks
 
See less See more
1
#148 · (Edited)
I couldn't do it. I just couldn't bring myself to cut on the new car. I did use some blue Loctite and I'll keep an eye on the four bottom bolts. Like everyone else, I had to grind down the carriage bolts a bit to get them in the slot. I'm definitely keeping the fishing wires in case I ever need/want to remove the hitch.
 
#149 ·
anyone using their hitch with a cargo carrier basket?

we are considering taking a couple trips this summer and were toying with the idea of taking the focus versus the van to take advantage of the better MPG but we (she) will need more space for what we will be taking.
 
#150 ·
I have one of the narrow aluminum racks an have used it to haul acetylene bottle and gas cans. I think you would be fine just don't obscure the taillights and maybe a max of 150 to 200 lbs including the carrier. Avoid the ones that hinge up as they stick out too much and put more weight on the hitch (because of the leverage). I also fabricated a brace to go from the top of the hitch receiver to the rear sub-bumper impact bar it adds a little support out closer to the rack. Good luck, Texaswiley
 
#152 ·
I saw some mileage figures on a roof rack with two bicycles on it and mileage dropped 20 to 30%. No hard numbers but I would think the rear rack would be less. Anyone hauling bicycles on the rear should watch out for obscuring the tail lights. I put led lights on my rack and wired to a trailer plug receptacle. I contacted Ford about the question or having lights wired back there and their assuming I'm pulling a trailer. After leaving two messages and never a call back I said to heck with them and did it anyway.
 
#154 ·
So basically I want the Hidden Hitch, because the others require frame modifications? Wish I'd thought of this before doing my exhaust though.
 
#155 ·
I put my hitch on last summer (Draw-Tite) and got a bike rack this winter (Yakima Double-Down Ace) and finally took a bike on a long road trip.

Drove about 500 miles, most of it with my mountain bike on the rack, and I don't think there was any significant effect on MPGs. Was going 70-75 MPH on mostly highways (probably about 80-85% highway miles for the trip) and still averaged about 35 MPG.

For comparison, with no hitch, and driving a little slower (65-70) over about the same distance this past weekend, I managed 38 MPG.
 
#158 ·
I understand the advantages of a roof rack. However I tow the Focus behind the motorhome and also carry 2 kayaks on the roof. Bikes have to go an a hitch mount carrier. I also use the bike carrier on my Explorer. I have an aluminum cargo carrier I some times use to haul a gas can or used motor oil to recycle. I personally think it is ridiculous that any manufacture would build a car of any sort that didn't have the extra margin of engine/trans capacity to at least pull a 1,000 trailer. What happens when you put passengers and luggage that brings it up to the max GVW rating and drive from Salt Lake City to Denver on a hot day. Believe me that will stress it a lot more than the small trailer with a kayak or motorcycle will. Believe me some fool will do that with 5 passengers and a roof rack with a luggage carrier on it and burn up the transmission. BTW fuel economy with a roof rack will suck a lot worse than with a hitch rack.
 
#160 ·
Rogerschro- you are my new "go-to" guy due to this that you wrote "I might also mention I own a bicycle shop, so know a thing or two about bikes and many different rack systems."

I have to first get a bike. I am considering Trex Shift 3.0. Just a casual rider, exercise but no mountain biking. Then I have to decide on a bike rack, and get a hitch at U-haul and have them put it on. I have a lot to do. I will post if I need any tips.
 
#161 ·
Please help

I am getting a Sportframe 1 1/4 inch Rec. hitch on my car (Uhaul) for a bike rack. Probably a hanging one as opposed to a platform. The confirmation email had in small print: "warning: all nontrailer loads (bike rack etc) used with this hitch must be supported by auxillary stabilizing straps. Do I need to do this and why? Including a pic so you can see what the straps do. It does not seem like it would work for a platform rack.
 

Attachments

#162 ·
I am getting a Sportframe 1 1/4 inch Rec. hitch on my car (Uhaul) for a bike rack. Probably a hanging one as opposed to a platform. The confirmation email had in small print: "warning: all nontrailer loads (bike rack etc) used with this hitch must be supported by auxillary stabilizing straps. Do I need to do this and why? Including a pic so you can see what the straps do. It does not seem like it would work for a platform rack.
You don't really need it unless you are hauling heavy bikes. Most are light enough to use the rack without a strap. You are limited to two bikes with this configuration. Usually no more than 50lbs total. I have had no problem with the Thule t2 rack and two bikes mounted. I also stood on it and jumped up and down on it a few times to be sure it was secure when I first mounted it in the receiver just to see if there was any deflection. I didn't notice any and have not seen any yet. With some bikes such as cruisers that weigh 30+ lbs each, I think a strap is advisable to reduce the possibility of damage, mostly for rough roads that cause bouncing. You might also check out the Hollywood sport rider rack. It is a nice design and not too expensive at $240. Carries 2 bikes and folds up for storage.
http://hollywoodracks.com/bike-racks/hitch-racks/sportrider-hitch-rack.htm
 
#164 ·
I didn't want to start a new thread but I plan to get a hitch installed at uhaul. they want $32 to install it, another $50 if I want them to wire it up for lights, but I don't need that. It will be $180 OTD. They also cover any corrosion or anything that happens to it.

I plan to use it for bikes and to carry cargo on a rack. Also a 22" snowblower on the rack, it can't weigh more than 75lbs.

FYI I had them put one on my last SUV and it worked great, lights and all.
 
#166 ·
U-Haul is OK, but you can do it yourself for cheaper



I just put a Curt hitch on my 12 SEL myself, total cost out the door was around $120. The key is that you need to put the car on a lift to get to the frame underneath, you can't do it with the car on the ground.

BTW, the Curt hitch is the one that U-Haul OEMs, so it's identical. And the instructions are easy to follow.

My hitch cost $79 on sale from AutoAnything (including shipping). I had to take it to a local DIY auto shop so I could use their lifts, and a heavy duty drill for the 2 holes you need to put in the frame. The hitch mounts using the existing muffler mounts, and the 2 drilled holes. Took me a little over an hour for the whole thing, and $40 for the shop. Not bad.

Also, you will need a second pair of hands to maneuver the hitch into position, cause it is heavy. But there. Done, and $60 less than U-Haul.
[thankyou]
 
#167 ·
I put a Curt on mine a couple months back. Cost me $20 for the hitch. A buddy of mine picked it up for me at Summit in their scratch and dent section.

I did it in my driveway using wheel ramps and a jack stand to help hold one end. As far as enlarging the hole to get the carriage bolts in, it's easier to take the bolt to a bench grinder. Grind a little off the bolt and it will fit in the hole on an angle. It took me about an hour start to finish, I had to keep going in the garage for tools and to use the bench grinder.
 
#168 ·
Yeah, that will work too...



It's a ridiculously easy process if you have the tools. Wheel ramps and jack stands work just fine. I have a pretty good set of tools, but I don't have the ramps and stuff like that. For me, it was easy just putting the car on a lift. Plus, unless you have a high torque drill, you still have to drill through the frame, as the carriage bolts get fished through new holes.

$20? You're pretty lucky to get that price. Mine was on sale, AutoAnything wanted $109 retail for it, and that was a great price. For the same hitch, you should see what U-Haul is charging... [drinking]
 
#171 ·
If I remember correctly all I used was wheel ramps, 3 ton jack stands, a cordless drill, a good drill bit, ratchet, extension, deep sockets, torque wrench, and a bench grinder to modify the bolts. Oh and a sharpie to mark the new holes that needed to be drilled.

Wheel ramps come in handy. I use them for changing the oil and just about anything else I need to get under the car for. I'd rather to use the ramps than the floor jack and jack stands. Rhino ramps are pretty cheap and they stack to make them easier to store.

It was different backing up the ramps though to do the hitch. With a lift and close access to the right tools and someone to help hold the hitch it in place you can get it done fairly quickly.
 
#174 ·
See the first post of the thread.

If you click on the instructions link for the Hidden Hitch your #60290 is listed.

#24872 is also listed, proving to me that they're the same piece with different names. (Draw-Tite brand vs. Hidden Hitch brand)
 
#177 ·
I just got a Westfalia 307459 swan neck trailer hitch. Had it shipped to the USA from PF Jones in England. I like the way this attaches to the chassis much better than the Curt/Hidden Hitch/Draw Tite units. I also don't like the 1-1/4" receiver square tube system - too much slop. This swan neck bolts rigidly. Was about $315 with UPS shipping (shipping was $145 of that). Arrived in only 3 business days.

Paint job arrived a little banged-up so I put some primer on the bare spot and a few coats of gloss black spray.

I'll post more pictures when I install it.


 
#193 ·
I just got a Westfalia 307459 swan neck trailer hitch. .
[/URL]
You install this yet?
Well, I just built a little cargo / camper trailer on a Harbor freight frame
Hitch was installed at U'haul. The trailer is light, I can wheel it around the garage easier than pushing a full wheelbarrow.
Yet, I can feel it back there..i've only had it out twice...I had to invent a clamp device to quiet the rattle at the hitch/ receiver.
.I'm a total newb' when it comes to towing anything. It feels OK...but it does bounce and surge a bit here and there.
I have an old 2000 Focus Wagon that I love, it was my Mother's car...only 32,000 miles on it. the typical car used now and then by a little old lady.

I think it's just getting used to towing...I feel a little bit scared about it...since I'm taking the trailer from Pa. to Florida soon...that's a long haul.
More worried about the Harbor Freight trailer holding up. it's rated 1195 lbs total weight.
I have no idea what the trailer weighs...how would I find that out??
thanks
Franco....newbie


That's neat.
For your trip, I would at least pack an extra set of bearings, if not hub and spare wheel/tire as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Franco Novo
#178 ·
Lol, I'm about 3/4's through my 2013 manual and I think it said you cannot tow anything with your ford focus....I was hoping to be able to tow something small, like a Uhaul unit when camping.
 
#179 ·
Yeah, that sounds about right...



I would never even dream of towing anything with my Focus, since I'm already on my second engine after 35K miles. I got the hitch to hold my bike rack, but other than that, no, won't be pulling anything else. [rofl]
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top