In the sake of having information available to those who want to see random dyno testing that I do on my car, I've decided to open this thread here. I will simply copy and paste my previous posts here, and update only this thread for any performance testing/installs I do here. Up to mods discretion, naturally.
Here is my post from dyno testing this weekend:
Ok, wall of text to describe my data, then dyno charts below and analysis following.
First, the heat disclaimer. I didn't get the comparison between my originally posted dyno and these, but even on the SAE corrected numbers there is a constant 5hp/5ft lb decrease across the powerband. I believe that this is due to the 15+ degree increase from the last dyno runs and the current data. For dyno 8/9/10 I will post SAE, Uncorrected with Conditions; all others will just be SAE.
We tried to keep the dyno process as uniform as possible in order to keep the numbers as accurate as we could. The large variance in my initial dyno was due to making constant pulls with minimal cool-down, so we tried to avoid back-to-back pulls and also tried to avoid letting the car sit for long periods of time. Each different setup got one initial pull plus an additional pull to duplicate the graph. After the first three pulls (getting the DCT process ironed out), we collected data with the car in various setups to determine exactly where gains were seen. Dyno breakdown is as follows:
Runs 4/5- Oem configuration. Snorkel, borrowed filter, w/lunchbox
Runs 6/7- K&N drop-in, snorkel, w/lunchbox
Runs 8/9- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/lunchbox
Run 10- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/o lunchbox
Run 4:
Runs 5-7:
Runs 8-10 SAE:
Runs 8-10 Uncorrected/Conditions:
What have I learned from this data? Feel free to draw your own conclusions, but my determination is that our engine is nearly maxed out on air intake with the addition of the K&N drop-in and ram-ish mod. I say nearly because I do believe that the difference in my current setup when compared to other CAI's on the market will be covered upon the installation of the Griffin Ram Air (Newmission) mod. It appears to me, from the graphs that I have in comparison to manufacturer/members graphs, that we should be very similar in the end-state.
I do intend on fabricating an actual piece for my ram air, along with some pieces to augment the Griffin Mod, but the end-state will be the same as all of the piping will be of essentially the same diameter. I would be willing to bet that the Griffin Mod allows for enough air to not even need the ram-ish mod, but I'm going to do it anyways just because I can.
Also, as expected, the lunchbox delete did not contribute to any power increase. It does, however, remove some dead weight and contributes to a better (not perfect) sound. Definitely, imho, worth the minute of Sawzall (any Sawzall time is fun) time. I will be looking to pick up the required components to make a 2.25" dump right behind the rear drivers-side splash guard. I'm not shooting for the best looking exhaust, just something different than what everyone else is doing. And anything will beat the ugly stock turn-down.
Other noted issue: The removal of the exhaust leaves the already weakly supported (aka-flapping) rear valance even more of an air catch than before. I am going to fab a bent angle (nothing spectacular) to attempt to not only support it but hopefully deflect some of the under-car air from accumulating in that location. Maybe some pop-rivets to secure it. Someone really needs to come up with a diffuser to alleviate this issue.
Ok, wall-of-text over, thanks for reading. Feel free to discuss.[popcorn]
Here is my post from dyno testing this weekend:
Ok, wall of text to describe my data, then dyno charts below and analysis following.
First, the heat disclaimer. I didn't get the comparison between my originally posted dyno and these, but even on the SAE corrected numbers there is a constant 5hp/5ft lb decrease across the powerband. I believe that this is due to the 15+ degree increase from the last dyno runs and the current data. For dyno 8/9/10 I will post SAE, Uncorrected with Conditions; all others will just be SAE.
We tried to keep the dyno process as uniform as possible in order to keep the numbers as accurate as we could. The large variance in my initial dyno was due to making constant pulls with minimal cool-down, so we tried to avoid back-to-back pulls and also tried to avoid letting the car sit for long periods of time. Each different setup got one initial pull plus an additional pull to duplicate the graph. After the first three pulls (getting the DCT process ironed out), we collected data with the car in various setups to determine exactly where gains were seen. Dyno breakdown is as follows:
Runs 4/5- Oem configuration. Snorkel, borrowed filter, w/lunchbox
Runs 6/7- K&N drop-in, snorkel, w/lunchbox
Runs 8/9- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/lunchbox
Run 10- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/o lunchbox
Run 4:
Runs 5-7:
Runs 8-10 SAE:
Runs 8-10 Uncorrected/Conditions:
What have I learned from this data? Feel free to draw your own conclusions, but my determination is that our engine is nearly maxed out on air intake with the addition of the K&N drop-in and ram-ish mod. I say nearly because I do believe that the difference in my current setup when compared to other CAI's on the market will be covered upon the installation of the Griffin Ram Air (Newmission) mod. It appears to me, from the graphs that I have in comparison to manufacturer/members graphs, that we should be very similar in the end-state.
I do intend on fabricating an actual piece for my ram air, along with some pieces to augment the Griffin Mod, but the end-state will be the same as all of the piping will be of essentially the same diameter. I would be willing to bet that the Griffin Mod allows for enough air to not even need the ram-ish mod, but I'm going to do it anyways just because I can.
Also, as expected, the lunchbox delete did not contribute to any power increase. It does, however, remove some dead weight and contributes to a better (not perfect) sound. Definitely, imho, worth the minute of Sawzall (any Sawzall time is fun) time. I will be looking to pick up the required components to make a 2.25" dump right behind the rear drivers-side splash guard. I'm not shooting for the best looking exhaust, just something different than what everyone else is doing. And anything will beat the ugly stock turn-down.
Other noted issue: The removal of the exhaust leaves the already weakly supported (aka-flapping) rear valance even more of an air catch than before. I am going to fab a bent angle (nothing spectacular) to attempt to not only support it but hopefully deflect some of the under-car air from accumulating in that location. Maybe some pop-rivets to secure it. Someone really needs to come up with a diffuser to alleviate this issue.
Ok, wall-of-text over, thanks for reading. Feel free to discuss.[popcorn]