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Old 03-03-2013, 02:37 AM   #21
elsolo
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Had I never done this job; then reading this thread would make me think it is difficult or requires the services of a locksmith, or defeating the PATS anti-theft feature.

See these little tabs? They have numbers and the slot is at different heights.

The kit gives you enough of these to key the cylinder to the keys you already use.

Put on tab in one slot, insert the key. If it retracts to completely flush than it is the right one. If it sticks out, try a different numbered tab. Do that for all eight slots, it will take 15 minutes max. Fill the slots with the supplied grease, put the little springs in the holes and the tabs in the correct slots, when the key is inserted they all retract to flush. The grease holds all the little guys in place during assembly as well as lubes the lock for life.

The hardest part is removing the broken cylinder, re-keying the new one is simple, installing the new one is simple. There are Youtube vids you can watch to see how easy it is. No reason to bypass the PATS, or find some workaround, or program the computer to new keys or any of that nonsense. $30-40 total cost
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:52 AM   #22
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Yeah, or any of that nonsense.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:02 PM   #23
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Well I'm working on the IC with my dad. We drilled. I'm still confused as to what exactly we're trying to accomplish by drilling?
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:34 PM   #24
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So you can rotate it as if the key were inserted and it were working.
Must be able to turn it to remove it.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:08 PM   #25
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Got it. Now I just gotta save up for a new IC. Until then, I have the center part of the old IC (the part that turns the ignition) attached to the key as my key now. Appreciate all the help guys. :)
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:24 PM   #26
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When mine locked up, I used a 1/2" ratchet extension to start my car. It fit right into the ignition switch on the other side of the column.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:54 PM   #27
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No need to screw with PATS. You can't wait until it's totally locked to where you can't ever, ever get the cylinder out either. The first time it does it then the key in cylinder that the tumblers lift is barely on not clearing and locks on the groove edge that you see when cylinder is pulled. This is one of those times where putting it off only screws you, put it off and you are one of the lucky ones who gets to drill and spend money. Have the patience to screw with it until you get it to work only once and then pull the cylinder using the release button. File or grind the cylinder key leading edge as the cylinder rotates and then the key just bumps over the groove instead of locking and not moving. Takes 15 seconds with a dremel to fix the cylinder. Got both a '00 and '02 like that now and one over a year and other over two years since the lockups and they work just fine. Cost zero...........of course at some future point it may lock up like before when tumbler wear gets much worse, but by then the cylinder will be totally worn out rather than just halfway which is where they begin to screw up. It could be many more years yet. When I looked close at mine, the ignition key stuck in cylinder still lifted the locking key a good amount, the issue was the last .005" or so, the groove edge is made to lock on even that small amount. Put that bevel on there and the key slides up and over it easily. I made a .030" or so wide beveled edge, that should last a good long time.
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