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SVTFocus Noob's TurboBuild

24K views 155 replies 20 participants last post by  prerunnerwannabe 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay guys I finally have the kit back in my hands and it's time to start a thread on my build. I think I'm almost there I still am working on getting money for a light weight flywheel and clutch. I have a bunch of pics but idk if it will directly post hopefully for the sake of a good thread they will.[offtopic]
Now back to the build, I still have some small things to acquire but the biggest thing now is help from experienced boost owners!! I don't know if I have all the oil lines I need for turbo! Also don't know how/where to install my oil catch can I got.

My goal is to run as low of boost as possible at first to achieve 200-230ish Tq, after some good miles on that I will simply turn up boost till my tiny little T3 can't do any more.

History, I bought the kit used right here on marketplace:
SPA T3 .48 ar Turbo , Precision IC, Diablo Mafia, Siemens Deka 60lb Inj, Down pipe, screamer pipe? (what previous owner called it), Tial BOV, pretty sure SPA wastegate (not sure), SPA manifold, catch can, and a bunch of random piping and filter, random rubber and braided-steel lines, and a AEM wideband.

What I've bought so far:
TurboTurtle's 3" piping, tapped oil pan, IC mounting kit, and ARP manifold bolts, spa iron piece, evo wastegate, TurboTurtle's 3" offroad downpipe, Tom's Tuning,


What I feel I need:
CLutch Master's FX400 kit (6 puck)
Trubenz 3" flexpipe and "flexback" exhaust
Poly engine mounts
Greddy RS BOV

If you feel there is anything I'm missing or feel like commenting at all go ahead! the more the merrier just please keep it constructive on the criticism!!

Nowto post pics:









Jake
 
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#111 ·
Just putting all the small stuff together on SVT engine and forgetting what bolts go where any1 got an idea where a great source for engine rebuild pics are? I'm pretty good at figuring it out from pics, I'm afraid I was too cocky and forgot to label some of my nuts and bolts so can't remember it all now.

Jake
 
#114 ·
Just kidding found it all the guys that helped me suck at labeling can't trust anyone my A/C bracket bolts were labeled lower intake manifold..... If all goes right should be installing this weekend I'll upload the pics after it all. Hope to hear from Tom soon with a base tune for initial start up.


Jake
 
#115 ·
Well guys it's all back in the car been trying to start it since yesterday still no luck. when I pull plugs they are wet and top of cylinders are looking wet too. Still working with tom on if it's a tune issue or something else. Hopefully it'll be running soon enough. I do have some questions tho on the following pics.
Where does this connector plug into?

And this, does it need to have a vac line ran to it with Tom's tune or no?

And here's cyl 1's wet spark plug


Jake
 
#121 ·
Iacv?? what is that and where at. no not tps, you can see it plugged in, in the background if you look closely. Did test with ground spark plugs and they all are sparking when crank. Thinking too much fuel, they are wet when you pull them and u can see a light layer of fuel on top of pistons. what fuse turns off pump to see if I can't Dry it out so they are smothered in fuel and see if they com-bust.

Jake
 
#122 ·
Idle air control valve it's right below the throttle body as it mounts to the intake manifold if your looking from the front of the car.

Edit: in that first recent pic it's in between the throttle body and ignition coil if you reach straight through that opening your iacv should be right there.

If you flood the car with gas try doing a start with your foot flat on the gas and as soon as it comes to life let go of the pedal to not rev it up...it'll help prevent flooding and let the gas that is in there out. But the gas should evaporate after a while anyway so I wouldn't worry too much.

What's your spark plug gap? And what plugs are you using? Wires coil???
 
#123 ·
Ok so IACV is that sliver little thing bolted up to Intake right? If so that too is already plugged up. Yes gas does evap for me obviously, but once I start cranking with foot to floor nothing. Set the mafia to 0 like Tom said to try still nothing. Also the way I tested spark plugs lets me know the wires and coil are good too. Now if you are asking what wires and coil I'm using they are all OE (motorcraft) and the plugs are Motorcraft Sp-524's but they should still run the engine. The Sp-463's will be in at advance tom morning and I will install those tom. But none the less the 524's should still run the engine at idle no problem. I'm gonna go check over make sure there's nothing crazy as far as vac leaks becuz obviously if there was a big enough one it wouldn't run (encountered that the first time I tuned for 8lbs) but doubt there is a vac leak. The fact there's that much fuel in the cyl's & on plugs leads me to believe they are just being suffocated by fuel to prevent combustion. I'll keep you guys updated appreciate all the help!!

Jake
 
#125 ·
Never answered the compression question, but if it has spark, compression & fuel the missing ingredient could be timing - plug wires to the right locations???

Easy oops without marks on the coil pack.
 
#126 ·
Crank sensor is good I am getting spark, somehow two vac lines came off and now it's sounding a lot healthier trying to start. Still no start but spark plugs are no longer wet with changing mafia and the vac leaks. Wires are hooked up right to coil pack I never unplugged them and have a SE daily driver to confirm that. At work today but I'll look for more vac lines that may have come off or are leaking. Don't have a compression tester but sounds like it's compressing just from cranking. And can feel it sucking very well from TB.
Timing is good I re did the belt again last night becuz it was riding too close to cover for my tastes. I'm just prob going to redo all vac lines and get new spark plugs today and let you know where I'm at from there

Jake
 
#128 ·
So guys got engine re timed, my intake cam somehow jumped on me, whatever. But did a compression test like tom said to and got this Cyl 1 to 4; 49,49,51,59psi. This is obviously low and a problem would this have to do with the valve seals or the piston rings? I did buy the JE pistons which are supposed to lower compression ratio but I feel this is still too low, also are my results low since the engine isn't at op temp? I know everyone says to do a compression test once engine reaches op temp.


Jake
 
#129 ·
Okay guys just an update, timing redone yet again compression checks out now at 90psi to 94psi! Now the problem is fuel. I know this is going to sound sketchy but doing some hood rat things i can get engine to fire when I pour ever so small amount of fuel on top of cyl's. The problem is I'm not getting fuel thru Inj's. I read 90psi at the rail on livelink, but no longer read TPS. I feel the reason it doesn't deliver fuel is do to these two connectors I'm about to show you which one is TPS and what is the OTHER one!?!?




Now the one on the left is what I HAD plugged into TPS, and earlier on it was reading but no longer is it reading in Livelink. I feel it is electrical related as to why I can't get car to idle vs bad inj's I will however fully test my inj's to rule that out. I already pulled them and Orings look fine still firm and no tears from what I saw. Any help would be much appreciated!

Jake
 
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