Items you need for the install on your 2012 (If you purchase cancellors or anything else YOU THINK might work your going to waste your time and everyone elses asking why their not lit so follow my instructions)
An H11 35w or greater HID Kit (Same for Foglamps but they dont require anything but the HID kit since they are not monitored by the computer)
Heres some pictures of them Installed going down the road. While Driving
Behind a Car
Side of Car
Notice this FACTORY PT Cruiser with More light on the Bumper then My car on the Honda in the Previous Picture.
Notice Little to no Glare on the Sign and how sharply the Lights Cut off. (Not a Super Sharp Cutoff but very very Noticable)
On my Private Road.
Highbeams on, Notice you can see a Sign now and before you couldnt.
The Highbeams allow you to see further but not as bright at that distance as an HID Highbeam would be.
During the Day
Enjoy and Please If your not here to contribute anything to this thread do not comment on their legality.
Opinions on how they look are welcome and if their offensive or possible arguement starter I will have them removed. [cheers]
The problem is, if you actually read through this thread, the cutoff gets posted every few pages, and its always the same... The canbus harness has ALSO been proven to be a crap-shoot as to whether it will work or not. This is why MOST companies recommend using resistors. Resistors have proven themselves to consistently work better than a canbus harness. Its also been shown that after you install HID's, you need to go and get your headlights realigned, which very few people do. ALSO, whether you accept it or not, whether its enforced or not, HID's in halogen housings ARE ILLEGAL, end of story.
tnygiggles - there was no reason to take such offense that you needed to make this an argument.
One example of a "better" response that would have avoided this is "I'm putting them in for now to test the actual cutoff & scatter for myself".
THAT would lead to useful discussion, even if much of it has been posted before it COULD be brought up again.
The cutoff pictures you posted show good results, the problem is with "scatter" - excess light going where it shouldn't to annoy or even make vision difficult for oncoming drivers. Much more difficult to post a good test on that problem.
To my eye, there's some lack of understanding of that, and of proper beam patterns for the high beams. High beams do NOT use a flat cutoff like low beams, your major complaint about the high beam results it appears.
I've no time now for a careful edit, and I'm not going to remove the whole argument entire at this time. Think about putting this back on track, or just leave it alone for now.
Edited to remove most of the argument, while still leaving the start & most pertinent information.
Often all it takes to avoid a typical argument is to take a response at face value, rather than assuming a motive behind it.
"Stupid question, but..." is often used to put a question while attempting to avoid a possible misunderstanding. Didn't work here, and the "debate" became too argumentative. ALL points could have been made without that.
I've done my research. They aren't for HID's, but since I already have all the wiring I'll add HID's to see how they look and the beam pattern. I'll post pictures. I might run them for a little while and see if I have any issues.
I just didn't like the HID bulbs in the stock housing because they didn't look like they belong there. We'll see what they look like in the projectors. The high beam is an H1 which is hard to retro with an HId bulb so I'll probably keep them halogen as I don't like have an HID low beam with a halogen high beam.
Just so you know, most cars with HIDs have halogen highs as HIDs are not well suited for high beam duty. It is hard on them to be turned on and off a lot (flash to pass, etc.) If the HID's are used for both low and high beams, it is done with a movable shield in the projector (Bi-xenon) that lets more light out above the lowbeam cutoff.
I'm retroing bi-xenon projectors into my car, and will be using the projectors as well as the stock halogen highs. Quad highbeams of death! [deviltail]
Ok read about a billion threads but I have a question
I'm getting stock retro fits with morimoto projectors and ballasts from the www.lightingfirm.net. For $370 it's not worth it for me to mess with it.
They send out canbus harness as it works for many cars. If it doesn't they will ship the harness with resistors.
Canbus looks slick. Pretty much plug and play. But if they don't work here is my question. Can I use the canbus harness since its plug and play but then modify the car with FoCCCus so it sees I have alternate hid lights? Or does it have to have a harness and use the FoCCCus? Basically anytning in the canbus harness that will mess with the system that I can't use them both together?
Fraychild did the write up already how to avoid getting error messages after HID install, but it seems to me there are some unnecessary steps in there.
So more simplest way:
1. Get Focccus software
2. get ELM27 reader off eBay, costs about $10
3. get ForScan software (needed to clear off error codes after)
4. connect ELM27 to laptop, let windows to install drivers.
5. Turn car on to ACC, switch off everything including climate, radio, auto light and so on
6. Connect ELM to car's OBD2, run Focccus, click open, it should connect
7. Once you get to the main Focccus window click "Read from BCM" in the left lower corner. Sometimes it takes several times to read all the settings from BCM, so be patient.
8. Once Focccus read all the settings from BCM click "Save to file", name it something like initial or stock (you may need it if something goes wrong, so you can flash stock settings back)
9. When you saved config settings to file you can change #14 to "Alternative HID" and #17 to "without dimmed dipped headlights"
10. Click "Write to BCM"
11. Wait, your car is going to act weird, lights, chimes, climate and so on will go on.
12. Now you can save new config file and close Focccus
13. Run ForScan, check error codes (I bet there will be many) and clear them.
After that you can proceed to installing your HID and check how it works.
Uh.... Maybe thats because the lights are pointed too high? Try doing a quick googly for headlight aiming... If one side is still too low, you might be out of luck, unfortunately...
ah i c thank you, just getting around to throwing some new lights in my 2012 and didn't know if i needed those steps or not. managed to do everything else with no problems
yup theres quite a few threads on how to bypass that error that pops up if thats what your after to fix...
im going to see if i can get my hand on a bunch of the parts like the headlight bulb and a single HiD assembly to do tests on to see how its checking and how to trick and stop the error
im running leds in mine and manged to get them to work using the foccus program but still get the initial dipped beam message. however everything works properly i just get the message quick then its gone. not a huge deal but if there was a work around that i thought i may find an answer here
well again i would like to know myself im now really curious LED's ramp up when they first turn on they are low amp/voltage as they warm up the resistance goes up and the computer realizes they are on... but they have such low amp usage like tails and turns without the "Load" the car thinks they are burned out... to me honestly there is no gain i would usually look at it in the way hey they are lower amps etc etc then realise the idiot lights say bulb out so you have to use resistors to bring the current back up to the cars liking so to me theres no real point theres no savings.. but everyone has their own likes and dislikes and have a right to have it the way they want hence im trying to see if i can help by finding out what exactly is needed to turn off the idiot/errors
I have a 2015 Focus Facelift with normal halogens and I bought OEM Xenon headlights, complete.
Does the method described below work for my model or i have to do something different?
"So more simplest way:
1. Get Focccus software
2. get ELM27 reader off eBay, costs about $10
3. get ForScan software (needed to clear off error codes after)
4. connect ELM27 to laptop, let windows to install drivers.
5. Turn car on to ACC, switch off everything including climate, radio, auto light and so on
6. Connect ELM to car's OBD2, run Focccus, click open, it should connect
7. Once you get to the main Focccus window click "Read from BCM" in the left lower corner. Sometimes it takes several times to read all the settings from BCM, so be patient.
8. Once Focccus read all the settings from BCM click "Save to file", name it something like initial or stock (you may need it if something goes wrong, so you can flash stock settings back)
9. When you saved config settings to file you can change #14 to "Alternative HID" and #17 to "without dimmed dipped headlights"
10. Click "Write to BCM"
11. Wait, your car is going to act weird, lights, chimes, climate and so on will go on.
12. Now you can save new config file and close Focccus
13. Run ForScan, check error codes (I bet there will be many) and clear them.
After that you can proceed to installing your HID and check how it works."
I have a 2015 Focus Facelift with normal halogens and I bought OEM Xenon headlights, complete.
Does the method described below work for my model or i have to do something different?
Depends on the wiring of your vehicle, sometimes Ford cuts the costs and put in only wires needed for halogen, OEM Xenon lights have more pins as well as wires (and connectors are different btw).
Check the connectors first if they are the same and amount of pins
Pardon that I wasn't able to read all 56 some pages, but question about the line 14 and 17 code change.
Does any one have an explanation on what this actually changes between halogen and alternative/HID setting? also the affect of the line 17 change.
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