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Old 01-04-2014, 08:04 PM   #21
gondorian
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Update:

I got the chip out of the JB weld with a dremel and then wrapped it in electrical tape and now it works great.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:13 AM   #22
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How exactly do you get the chip out of the key ? Here is my situation : I'm converting a wagon to svt , so I'm switching over the computer etc. I have two keys from the wagon and two keys from the donor svt . I will switch the chips then everything should be good ? . I'm assuming the ignition tumbler should be changed over from the svt as well based on the key cut . People have tolde that I have to go to ford to get the keys re-programmed ... Edit I guess the ignition tumbler can stay in the wagon if I'm just switching the chips .
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:24 AM   #23
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Picture in the first post.

Shows slide out holder for the "chip".

I use dental pick style mechanics tools in the slot to "Pick" at something like that, small knife blade might work using the tip.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:29 PM   #24
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Bit of trivia here......

The "sliding slot" on OEM keys comes only on Keys with #1 stamped on the metal shank, up near the black plastic head (see OP picture in first post of this thread). Additional OEM keys are stamped #2, #3..... Up to the maximum, and are solid plastic heads.

After market keys differ greatly.

I did something similar to what the OP did but hid the key and the RFID chip separately, on/in the car incase there ever was a time someone was locked out of the car. The 'dumb' key gets you in the car - the chip, along with the dumb key held together in the correct position, starts the car.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:02 PM   #25
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Or you could just buy new PATS keys off ebay, buy two keys for $15.
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