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ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

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#1 · (Edited)
How-To-ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

I am putting this together for the weekend mechanic who has some skills and tools or believes they can do something with outside help such as this procedure. It contains pics, notes, and tools used. I will do my best to stay within the requested limit of 15 pics but may stray over some. Keep in mind this is what worked for me, your mileage may vary.

A bit of an intro. It’s a 2002 ZX5 and my DD with 155k, and sees 100 miles per day. Throw in several long road trips and you arrive at my mileage. Barring any major repairs that just won’t make it cost effective, this car will be around for several more years. So far I have changed the oil every 5-7k miles, replaced the front brakes at 100k, end links at 145k, and at least 3 batteries and 1 alternator. Somehow the timing belt replacement was missed, old age maybe (mine). I was hoping it would last until November’ish when temps cool down out here in the desert. I have been reading up on the change out, printed a procedure from the net, linked here, and ordered the bar and timing pin kit last March.

So anyway the wife is driving down the road about 65’ish when it looses (in only a wife’s description) all the power. I was in Vegas [headbang] , she called, and I told her to either call AAA or drive it home. She was 3 miles from the house and drove it at 25mph which turned out to be about all it would do. I get home the next day (Monday) at 1000 (military time), change cloths and hit the garage. I wanted to take it for a short spin around the block to get a feel for what’s going on. Upon starting it up the engine visible shook pretty good. Took it around the block and could tell it had lost power and just did not have the exhaust sound I am used to hearing after 155k miles. Still didn’t really have an idea yet so hooked up the laptop into the PCM and immediately saw the timing jumping from 25 to 35 degrees and moved with the engine. That’s when the light came on, timing belt. Crap. [bigcry] [bigcry]

I have a garage, air compressor, 2 hydraulic jacks, 6 jack stands, blocks of wood, and lots of metric tools, pneumatic tools, a refrigerator, stereo and a partridge in a pear tree. So I’m set to go.

As for my mechanical skills. I can tear down an engine to parade rest but have never put one back together. I have replaced brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, cylinder head gaskets. Swapped out a carburetor on my CJ7 to a chevy throttle body fuel injection. So I have some skills.

New parts:
Timing belt kit from NAPA, contains the belt, idler pulley and tensioner
Water pump
Serp belt tensioner
Serp belt idler pulley bearing, no one in town had the assemble but found the bearing.
2-O2 sensors
P-side motor mount
Oil and filter

Labor was free but still, all told about 17 hours. In the end the timing belt had slipped and jumped on the crank pulley 2 teeth or 36 degrees of timing. I did not see the importance of installing the timing pin. So I had to take it all apart twice.

Here are some links of interest.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/eb90428.htm
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...ation/Ford%20Manual%20Files/Cam%20Timing.html This is the write up I followed
http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-648...or-20L-Zetec-Engines_p_38-6302.html?iorb=4764
http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=56
 
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#68 ·
Posted via FF MobileIf there`s a large enough hole (or can be enlarged slightly) on the pump for a larger bolt, maybe switching metric to american so it`s not MUCH larger, you may be able to tap larger with engine in place, saving hoisting it to get a drill in...
 
#72 ·
Good call... I haven't started yet. I gotta get a cherry picker to pull the engien up high enough to get a straight tap/drill bit into it. Can't do precision work, working at an angle really....

I think I'll do just that, tap it to an imperial bolt then try that route. What size would be the next one up from an 8mm metric bolt?
 
#73 ·
Good call... I haven't started yet. I gotta get a cherry picker to pull the engien up high enough to get a straight tap/drill bit into it. Can't do precision work, working at an angle really....

I think I'll do just that, tap it to an imperial bolt then try that route. What size would be the next one up from an 8mm metric bolt?
* 1mm = just over 1/32 inch
* 2mm = just over 1/16 inch
* 3mm = almost 1/8 inch
* 4mm = 5/32 inch (= a bit over 1/8 inch)
* 5mm = just over 3/16 inch
* 6mm = almost 1/4 inch
* 7mm = almost 9/32 inch (= a bit over 1/4 inch)
* 8mm = 5/16 inch
* 9mm = almost 3/8 inch
* 10mm = just over 3/8 inch
* 11mm = almost 7/16 inch
* 12mm = almost 15/32 inch (= almost 1/2 inch)
* 13mm = just over 1/2 inch
* 14mm = almost 9/16 inch
* 15mm = almost 19/32 inch
* 16mm = 5/8 inch
* 17mm = almost 11/16 inch
* 18mm = just over 11/16 inch
* 19mm = 3/4 inch
* 20mm = 25/32 inch
* 21mm = just over 13/16 inch
* 22mm = almost 7/8 inch
* 23mm = 29/32 inch
* 24mm = just over 15/16 inch
* 25mm = almost 1 inch

Also, can't you use a 90° [right angle] drill adapter; that should go in the available spacer easier, maybe not require any engine lift?
[8D]
 
#75 ·
Posted via FF Mobile Needs to come off for timing check & set. Making your own marks to "cheat" by replacing belt without checking & resetting timing as needed could be done, but Ford wanted near perfect timing, not just close - so they made it possible through their adjustable sprockets. One small oops and you`re off quite a bit, is it wort chancing that? Plus you would probably have a harder time getting it close by the "cheat" of not checking the cams than by doing it right. Your call, if not VERY experienced and knowledgeable don`t even THINK of trying your own method....really not worth it...
 
#77 ·
Posted via FF MobileSimple answer - yes. To explain even more, older engines and probably some current ones used fixed pulleys with timing marks. This ALWAYS resulted in timing that was "off" by half a notch, and you would set it so if the belt stretched at all it would come closer to spec.. Ford system allows exact timing setting, new belt is prob. not exactly identical to old, and setting by timing marks without multiple attempts is an art in itself. read up on procedure, use official timing tools or alternatives discussed in threds on this, check old threads for some how-to advice, then post any questions that come up as you do the job or you are confused about B4 you begin. MUCH easier once you see the pieces and see how they work...
 
#78 ·
be EXTREMELY careful with threading in the bolts into the block for water pump and other components... lol

I'm learning that one the hard way! Now I gotta tap the screw hole with larger bolts after removing all 3 engine mounts and hoisting the engine up and pretty much out of the car. :(
 
#79 ·
torque specs for cam gear bolts

Great post, am doing this job tommorrow along with wrapping the headers on my SVTF and replacing two broken O2 sensors.

Can anyone tell me what I should torque the cam gear bolts to? I saw in a post that after installing the belt you torque the bolts, but there were no specs. I do not have a manual, am doing this from the knowledge gathered on this forum.
 
#80 · (Edited)
i need some fast help

Sorry for the long post but I think I may have messed up. I needed to replace my timing belt so I tore her down got off the harmonic balancer then put some green paint on the belt and the crank. Some blue paint on the belt and exhaust cam. then some Orange paint on the intake cam and belt. REmoved the belt counted the ribs between old belt and marked new belt with paint on same ribs. i.e from green 60 ribs to blue paint then from there 15 ribs to orange. re installed belt aligning paint marks perfectly. set tensioner. now when I rotate crank the paint marks never align again unless i rotate it back. I.e rotate crank ten times CW then back ten times CCW paint will line up no prob. am I good to go? car ran fine before I tore her down. Just some PM. I also noticed the tensioner moves off of its alignment markings when turning the engine over. is this normal. Its midnight and I am freaking out. HELP

ETA the car is still in pcs. now should i stop and get the stuff to put it at tdc? my new belt is on and my paint is still aligned.
 
#82 ·
Homegrown alignment

Sorry for the long post but I think I may have messed up. I needed to replace my timing belt so I tore her down got off the harmonic balancer then put some green paint on the belt and the crank. Some blue paint on the belt and exhaust cam. then some Orange paint on the intake cam and belt. REmoved the belt counted the ribs between old belt and marked new belt with paint on same ribs. i.e from green 60 ribs to blue paint then from there 15 ribs to orange. re installed belt aligning paint marks perfectly. set tensioner. now when I rotate crank the paint marks never align again unless i rotate it back. I.e rotate crank ten times CW then back ten times CCW paint will line up no prob. am I good to go? car ran fine before I tore her down. Just some PM. I also noticed the tensioner moves off of its alignment markings when turning the engine over. is this normal. Its midnight and I am freaking out. HELP

ETA the car is still in pcs. now should i stop and get the stuff to put it at tdc? my new belt is on and my paint is still aligned.
This is why doing it your own way isn't recommended, it's hard to be sure it's good enough to work - and you KNOW it won't be "perfect".

The crank turns twice for every turn of the cams, so the timing marks (if there were any) would only line up on every second revolution.

"normal" timing marks line up to a static reference point when #1 cyl. is at TDC of the compression stroke - valves closed, piston at top dead center. This can only be seen with the valve cover off and the plugs out at a minimum.

Without your marks lining up to a reference point you are really "shooting in the dark" - even though with the care you used in your personal procedure you probably managed to get the new belt in the same position as the old one, so it SHOULD at least run...

Confirming this by pulling the cam cover and checking for proper alignment at TDC #1 is the minimum you should do for peace of mind before firing it up again, and using the "official" tools or their equivalent to set it exactly is really what SHOULD be done...

Your call, I'd do the minimum check as described above to make sure it's "good enough" and you're not going to cause more problems by firing it up first....
 
#84 ·
^^^ Yup, your pulleys should line up the same every second rotation - but the belt won't.

Popping the valve cover to double check that all looks good at TDC #1 is easy enough to do, well worth the peace of mind it'll give you....
 
#85 ·
thanks guys

Thanks for the input. I did take off the valve cover and removed spark plugs put her up on TDC and everything was spot on. Rotated engine back towards my paint marks and they still lined up perfectly. Thanks for the replies. She is back up and running now I am changing wheel bearings and hubs on the front.

Thanks again!
 
#92 ·
I hope it doesn't take 2 days to do this. I've just got to get off my backside and get it done.
My biggest concern is getting the bolt on the front of the crank loose, guess I could use one of my break over bars and try the crank the engine trick is it won't come loose.
 
#94 ·
I just did the belt on my SVT yesterday - took 2 hours at a leisurely pace. I'd never done one before.

The only thing that ALMOST threw me is the timing marks on the crank pulley. The illustrations all show these huge V-shaped notches in the rim of the pulley. But in all actuality, mine looked almost like they were just damaged spots on the very edge, like some thing hit the pulley and left a tiny nick in it. Once I figured it out, that THOSE were actually the timing marks, it all made sense.
 
#97 ·
Seems to be a lot of people fighting with the crank bolt. If you have a manual trans there is a very easy way. Leave the car on the ground or jack up just enough that you can fit under it (if you have an SVT like I do) without the tires leaving the ground. Put the car in 5th or 6th (ha! SVT!) gear. Have someone step on the brakes and muscle up. Definitely wasn't the hardest bolt I've had to break lose. Did it with just a 3/4in wrench over a ratchet.

Best of luck!
 
#100 ·
Get a torque wrench. When you're dealing with anything critical on the engine (what could be more critical than a crank bolt?), and you're told a torque, there's a reason for it. If you don't torque the bolt down tight enough, the bolt could come loose due to vibration, and the timing belt goes nuts and you might lose the engine.

I'd get (and I have) a torque wrench.
 
#101 ·
Roper dope it..

Here's a little trick to try when one needs to hold a engine for a no turn over. Pull any plug from the head and cram a piece of nylon rope down in the hole. Probably takes 6-10'' to lock the piston from rotating over! That will hold a thousand pounds of muscle. Good luck, pull the rope out when finished,reinstall the plug. Simple and no busted knuckles!!lol.
 
#104 ·
Here's a little trick to try when one needs to hold a engine for a no turn over. Pull any plug from the head and cram a piece of nylon rope down in the hole. Probably takes 6-10'' to lock the piston from rotating over! That will hold a thousand pounds of muscle. Good luck, pull the rope out when finished,reinstall the plug. Simple and no busted knuckles!!lol.
...and hope to God you don't bend a valve while doing this, right?
 
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