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Old 03-25-2004, 12:10 PM   #1
maul
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Full Interior paint how-to

I submitted this about 2 weeks ago to the how-to library, and got no response so i figured i would throw it up here.


It seems that a lot of people still have questions about interior painting,
and the how-to that is currently up doesnt really explain the process well.
In this how-to, Im going to actually discribe the process.

To find out how to take all of the parts out, refer to this how-to:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/howtos/interiorpaint_prep/ <-- this is the new prep link



First off, the materials used to do this project:
-Approx. 2 cans of krylon or duplicolor paint of your color of choice.
-One can of duplicolor or krylon clearcoat
-600 Grit sand paper
-Masking tape to tape off any areas you dont want painted
-Denatured alcohol or acetone



Step One

Once you have all of the pieces out that you want to paint, you need to
start sanding. Take each piece and make sure to sand ALL of the area that
you want to paint extremely well. You will know its sanded well if you cant
see the gloss of the old paint/plastic on top. Once everything is sanded
take your denatured alcohol and wipe everything down to clean off any
shavings or whatever the sanding may have left behind. Now, check all of
your pieces again, if you see glossy or shiney areas, resand and reclean
with the alcohol.

If you want to keep anything its current color, simply take the masking
tape and mark off anything you dont want the paint to get on. Make sure you
have the tape on smooth around the edges, so the paint doesnt leak under it.



Step Two

Now that everything is prepped, its time to start painting. Take one part
at a time, and smoothly apply the paint over the surface. Hold the can
approx. 6-10 inches from the surface and make steady, even passes until the
whole surface is covered with the first coat. **If the paint isnt bonding
to the plastic, wait for the coat to dry and resand the area that isnt
bonding. Its also to go over the area with steel wool to get it nice and
rough so that the paint will stick**. Let the paint dry for about 15
minutes and it will be ready for the next coat. After about 4 coats of
paint, let it dry for at least an hour before applying the clearcoat to
avoid running.

The clearcoat process is pretty much the same as the paint
process, except it only takes about 5-7 minutes for the clearcoat to be dry
enough for the next coat. I would HIGHLY recommend letting the clearcoat
dry overnight. It becomes extremely tacky after about 10 minutes, and may
seem dry, but the slightest amount of pressure can really make it look
messy.





Step Three

Everything snaps into your focus just like it came out. Be careful to not
scratch any of your paint as youre putting it back into the car. If you
notice little nicks that you dont want to leave just spray some of the
paint into its lid, take a brush, and lightly paint over the mark.




This project takes about One day to do, and a dry time of overnight. It
really isnt that hard to do, I would rate it at about 6/10.


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Last edited by maul; 05-12-2004 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:56 AM   #2
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Very nice !! thanks for the info
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:26 AM   #3
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no sticky makes me sad :(
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Old 04-01-2004, 12:55 AM   #4
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yellow not my color, but good job..........i was expecting the dash to be painted though lol
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Old 04-01-2004, 04:45 PM   #5
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I never thought painting the AC vents looked good until I saw this! So totally awesome! It's definitely a 10 on my scale. One question though. The paint I used to paint my engine pieces, rear drums, and calipers came out lighter than the cap (which is suppose to be Ford Dark Blue). Would primering the interior pieces in black make a difference?? Thanks for any advice!
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:25 PM   #6
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im not sure about that. i didnt prime it, just sanded down the plastic and applied the paint. if you have a problem try adding another coat or two until it comes out how you want it.
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Old 04-09-2004, 10:00 PM   #7
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just to append to this topic because it wasn't covered in this tutorial: the glove compartment and the plastics under the steering wheel are easy to remove and paint but i'll have to add that painting the airbag cover will involve going from beneath to loosen the bolts that keep it in place, i'd post one of my images here, but it's 1600x1200
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Old 04-09-2004, 10:08 PM   #8
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i was wrong, it wasn't that big, but i still had to shrink it to be able to upload it. btw, i didn't sand anything or actually prime it other than wiping it down with a cloth to remove dust, dirt, etc. and i think mine came out ok, but time will tell (i didn't want to sand because i wanted to keep the texture of the parts)
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Old 04-10-2004, 07:57 AM   #9
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[quote]i was wrong, it wasn't that big, but i still had to shrink it to be able to upload it. btw, i didn't sand anything or actually prime it other than wiping it down with a cloth to remove dust, dirt, etc. and i think mine came out ok, but time will tell (i didn't want to sand because i wanted to keep the texture of the parts)[quote]

I don't want to sand mine either! I don't think it would look right, up close, with the pieces that aren't painted.
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:51 PM   #10
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sanding it just helps the paint bond better to the plastic, it doesnt change how anything looks after its painted. it also helps so the original color of the parts dont show through the paint
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