|
||||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
|||||||
| Ford Focus Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Focus Rookie
|
Transmission service 2008 focus - Dealer says flush
I am tired of dealers giving me conflicting information so thought I would ask here.
2008 Focus SES, just turned 59k miles and since I have high miles, its difficult to find info on it. This is my daily driver and its sees a lot of highway miles. With that said, its coming up on its 60k service which includes the transmission fluid change. I have been told there is no filter, its just a screen that doesnt need to be changed. Service manual requires fluid changed at 60k intervals with no mention of a filter. Autozone list the filter as a replacement part. Dealer tells me they no longer drop the pans to service the Transmission, they only use the machine and backflush it with a cleaner, which I have also been told is a no no. Asked about the filter and he said the backflushing cleans it all so no need. So... 1. Do I have a filter? 2. Should I let dealer service it with the machine flush? 3. If I have a screen, is it a lifetime part/non serviceable? 4. Should I even worry about dropping the pan? 5. Should I even worry about the machine flush since it only has 59k miles? Thanks for any help you can give. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Focus Fanatic
|
This is almost as contentious an issue as what brand oil you prefer.
FWIW, pan drop and fluid/filter change is the "safe" but messy procedure, and it doesn't change all the fluid. Most "issues" resulting from the flush procedure seem to occur on vehicles with very high mileage and no previous service, therefore there's a LOT more "crud" that could get where it doesn't belong when "disturbed" by a "flush" procedure. Though some may say "run it 'till you have a problem", those mentioning high miles with no issues have all done regular fluid changes, usually the pan-drop type since they're doing their own work. If you prefer using the dealer for convenience or warranty concerns it's not likely that a problem will result, as your described use isn't a case of hard use requiring earlier service and you're doing it at the recommended mileage - so no unusual amount of "crud" should be present. I might shop dealers to compare prices, or time it to use a coupon deal (mine sends them out regularly, and I bought mine used) if the quote seems high. Do it yourself can be messy, and takes a little time (easier when you DON'T rush the job) - many like to see what's in the pan and be able to clean the magnet of iron debris - it's a lot like preferring to do oil changes yourself, at least when convenient. And like oil changes it's prob. more important to do on sched. than just how it's done.... Skipping maint. or not checking fluid levels is a big issue - debating the "best" maint. method has a relatively minor effect on longevity, as long as you stay in the "normal" range of use & maint. schedule. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Captain TMI
|
I'd say if the fluid is not low, no funny smells, or funny colors- then I'd forget changing all the fluid. There's nothing wrong with that. Just do a filter job.
As far as there not being a filter- I don't know that for certain, but there have been filters on other ATX's on this site from earlier years- up to 07. Check our Complete How-To Archive for more information. If you get the Purolator brand, then you'll end up with a rubber pan gasket instead of RTV gasket.
__________________
---The Complete How-To Archive-- Moderating Tech Chat and Duratec Chat, let me know if I can help. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Focus Enthusiast
|
the horror stories I've heard of the backflush can happen with a car with low normal use miles and issues can still result... if the car they backflushed right before your car had 500,000 miles and tons of crud in it and they don't properly clean the backflush machine then they may end up backflushing someone elses crud back into your tranny...
__________________
- 2003 black SVTf w/bolt ons (rebuild in progress...) - 2000 gold Exploder XLT 5.0 AWD remote mount turbo & IC - www.facebook.com/wangosaurusrex |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Focus Addict
|
Ask what the flush entails. Most just stick a tube in the filler tube, such the fluid out and replace, and that does nothing for the converter, etc. Check the site "bobistheoilguy.com" best info ever
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Focus Fanatic
|
PDQ makes a good point on lack of knowledge, the method he mentions is usually used on manual trannys and differentials with no drain plug though I'm sure some do it on Automatics as well.
More common is a hookup to the cooler lines, collecting the output and introducing new fluid through the return line. Working with the system this way seems relatively benign. A system that hooks up this way, but operates with it's own pump to reverse flow with the engine off (backflush), seems to be asking for trouble in my admittedly limited knowledge. I'd be interested to hear the pro's & cons of such a procedure from anyone with more knowledge & experience in the subject! |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Focus Enthusiast
|
The ATX filter kits are only around $20 but its a messy P.I.T.A. to do and many shops and dealers aren't changing filters anymore. The flush should be fine at 60K on a 3 year old car but you might want to drop the pan and change the filter at the next scheduled interval just to check things out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Focus Addict
|
dropping a pan is really not that hard a job, if your smart and plan ahead just a little bit. leave 2 screws in. drop a corner then remove. As transmissions are full of fibrous clutch material, i think it would be naive to think that a filter would not, or should not be changed. if you a couple of extra minutes, when the pan is removed have a drain plug welded/braised in, thus making any subsequent changes much easier.
__________________
"CD" Silver, 2002 ZX5, SVT Airbox. |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Focus Enthusiast
|
My '08 owner's manual says that the tranny fluid should be done at 150K. It has Mercon LV (low viscosity) fluid in it. I don't trust that much mileage before a change so I pulled my pan at 20K, put in 3 qts. of LV, and had a B&M drain plug welded in my pan. I didn't change the filter but found a real pan gasket on the Internet and the place offered just the gasket or gasket and filter as a kit. Ford claims the filters and fluid are lifetime, whatever that means (I guess 150K).
__________________
My "Pocket Rocket": '05 Silver Metallic Escape XLT, 3.0L V6, 4X4, MAC SRI, custom 2-1/4" catback w/turbo muffler, SCT XCal3 93 octane ECU tune, approx. 240 hp, 4X4 fuse pulled (rice humiliator) Wife's: '08 SES, K&N drop-in, no resonator, SCT tuned |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Focus Addict
|
^^^ nobody ever went wrong changing fluids, yes its possible you "waste" money with maintenance, but really clean fluids are the best way to keep things operating properly.
__________________
"CD" Silver, 2002 ZX5, SVT Airbox. |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
Captain TMI
|
Quote:
Pulling the AT pan is not a good idea without planning. I recommend that people purchase a cheap kitty litter plastic pan to go under it after draining into an appropriate oil catch. There is also a power flush method detailed in our complete How-To archive along with pan gasket/filter change. IMO, it's not that big of a deal if you don't get all your fluid out. Cleaning the metal shavings off the pan, and replacing the filter are more important. Filter changes every 20k miles is likely a waste. Just keep an eye on the fluid and it's condition and change it when the fluid smells like rotten fish (probably never), darkens, or you have a leak. The rotten fish smell comes from moisture mixing with the fluid, and that is usually a sign of vent failure as moisture should boil and discharge if the vent is working. The power flush method requires a bucket. Basically remove the lower line from the cooler, attach a hose to that line going to a bucket, remove coil wires, remove fuel pump fuse/unplug inertia switch, rotate engine with starter to pump out fluid. It's important not to start the engine when doing this as it will pump out all the fluid in a matter of 3 secs at idle speed, and could damage fins in the torque converter.
__________________
---The Complete How-To Archive-- Moderating Tech Chat and Duratec Chat, let me know if I can help. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Focus Rookie
|
It might be interesting to note that even Lexus does not recommend a transmission flush at any time. Flushing just pumps the clutch material suspended in the fluid into areas it shouldn't be, and/or plugs the screen, which would starve the tranny from fluid. Your best bet is drop and fill a few times, waiting several hundred miles between changes. Over time, you will change out almost all the fluid with new. I do it every 30k. I got 290K out my last Focus, and the tranny was still going strong.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
||||