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Old 09-30-2004, 10:11 PM   #21
Vassili95
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Yep...that's what it is.

My next mod..:)

Paix...
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Old 10-01-2004, 11:56 AM   #22
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if you heard that bang then yeah its the mount......get a new one (not that yours is BROKE its just the VF or Mac (what i have) is alot better). The mac mount is like $30 cheaper than VF. I have the mac my friend has the VF.....i like them both a lot. I cant tell a difference while driving.

Here is a cool test to show how much movement you have. Start you car and pop the hood. Reach back to your t/b and pull the spring forward to rev the engine. Do it real quick and pull back far. Notice how far the engine moves. With the mount this is down to nearly NO movment.
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Old 10-02-2004, 12:27 AM   #23
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very good detailed pics i'll probablly be coming back here when i get my mounts!
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:08 PM   #24
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Hey! My first "sticky"!

Thanks to whomever set it up. I appreciate it.
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:15 PM   #25
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You're welcome! Thanks to Shady R too for the heads up!!!
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Old 10-15-2004, 10:32 PM   #26
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Wow, that looks pretty easy to install..I may think about getting one of those for myself!
 
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:15 PM   #27
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I just got done installing mine...all I have to say is what a PITA that was!

If you're doing this to a non-SVTF, don't remove or loosen the bolts on the retaining brace. Its not the same; it's not a plate like the SVT, its one solid piece so you can't rotate it out of the way (I wish someone else would've added this before I did mine... )

1) Skip removing/loosening the three bolts holding the brace. Its just a waste of time since you can't remove it, there's a fourth bolt at the back of the brace that won't come off without air tools, and even then you'd have a hell of a time getting an impact wrench or even ratchet up in there.

2) Remove the bolts holding the mount in place.

3) Get a prybar and rock the engine forward. Make sure you pry against something solid, and be sure to miss the brakeline running directly behind the transmission. I found the ideal spot to pry against was the black sheetmetal (?) frame between the two wheels. Once you get it far enough forward (and you really have to move it, you'll probably need something to brace your feet against if you're laying down) wiggle the stock mount out.

4) Repeat the process to get the new one in. I found that putting it in the back first and starting the bolt there works best, because the brass bushing in the middle of the poly insert (in the front) is a very tight fit with the brace. Using the same strategy as before, rock the engine forward until you can manuver the front mount into the brace. It probably won't line up perfectly, and you'll probably have to relieve some of the tension from your jack to get the mount to settle into place, using the weight of the engine. I used a large flat-head screwdriver to further line up the holes so the bolt could run through. Then its as simple as redoing the bolts and applying the proper torque (35 ft-lbs.)

I'd have to say its great having the mount installed. The car doesn't nose forward when dropping from first to second, and the rest of the gears seem a lot firmer now. There is a little added vibration, mostly felt through the pedals in your feet, but not enough to be of any concern. Had I known how to do this on a non-SVTF it wouldn't have taken me two and a half hours of trying to get the whole brace off the transmission.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:25 PM   #28
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Good deal, Frogman283.
Thanks for the update for the "standard" models.
If I can still edit my first post, I'll point the MTX-75 folks to your alternate instructions.
Done.

Last edited by WD40; 10-20-2004 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:35 PM   #29
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Kudos on the "HOWTO" and the PICS as well. Helped me a ton.
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Old 10-27-2004, 08:34 AM   #30
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One of my engine mounts gave up on me today. The engine is now a bit jumpy on the road. Those things seem to be really good. You think it would be worth installing them on my ATX ZX3. Let me know.
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